Barney12

It really is impressive. It’s bonds metal to wood with ease.

CT1 all day long. In fact the instructions with my frame kit for my eclisse door recommends attaching with silicone.

Hi, the make up is as follows: 200mm celotex (between rafters) breather membrane 50mm batten OSB Roof Sheet Fibreglass The gutter is in front of this detail thus I have a circa 60mm gully without comprising the insulation.

I'm absolutely with you. My brother (English) married an American and they now live in the US (Just across the river from the Big Apple in New Jersey) and the entire mentality is different. Its not just energy, its "consumption" in every sense. From food, clothing and services. Its the last one that amazes me the most. The list of "men" they have for various tasks is staggering. The "pool man", the "laundry man", the "garden man", then there is the "garden decorating man" (Come on you know! The guy you get to put the lights and fancy stuff out for holidays and haloween etc). Oh then there is the cake man (every celebration needs a dedicated cake), the catering man (you cant have a party without caterers). When I was there last month my 8 year old nephew had his birthday party which 12 kids were invited. I sh*t you not it involved 5 different subcontract trades. ? Including the guy that turned up with a 30ft gaming truck containing every console and game known to man and a dozen or so big screens (inside and out).

Do you live in a hotel?

Some more info here: https://www.roofinglines.co.uk/blog/switching-to-a-dry-ridge-system Your insurer will likely only cover the cost of refixing/replacing damaged ridges. They may well cash settle which you could put towards the cost of renewing with a dry ridge. Just be careful that you are content that there is no other damage. Depending on your insurer they may try and “cash you out” from nothing more than a look at the roof from the ground.

If you've got the optional soft close mechanism then I'd be tempted just to plaster the jamb if its a super clean / contemporary look you're wanting. If not then as Peter says you'll need something to stop the glass hitting metal. A simple aluminium u-channel set in the plasterboard with a rubber strip inside would work well.

Here’s a useful image showing you the metal lip on the pocket side.

No. Through the steel into the stud. Just standard screws. They will be covered by the timber jamb kit.

The pocket side does indeed have a metal lip that the board butts up to. However, on the impact jam and header there is no lip and you simply fit the board flush to the opening.

I fitted one at the weekend. As you say the impact jam has no holes. I simply drilled three pilot holes and screwed it the vertical stud frame which it was going into. My kit had two removable metal braces which help to keep everything square whilst you install it.

My CAT6 is in its own 50mm duct next to SWA and all fine. ?

You’ve got me? pvp?

We will have to agree to disagree. If a company (the size of Sunamp which is locked in a significant product development lifecycle) has significant knowledge locked in a single individual then they definitely have some pretty significant issues with structure, management and process.

That has been in existence for some time. The “top dogs” don’t want it released and stated very clearly to me that they see no need for such a device as the Sunamp is a dhw cylinder replacement and a cylinder doesn’t give you any feedback. I do though suppose they have a point in that you don’t know how much hot water is left in a cylinder but if you had the opportunity to provide a feature which has obvious benefits to the user why wouldn’t you use it? At best; marketing opportunity lost. FAIL.

Sorry to be negative but this statement is really quite scary. I know for a fact that this change to the Eddi was instigated by Sunamp after they were previously recommending other diverters which quite simply didn’t work (due to the issue you experienced). I believe the technical manager (who I understand is now on long term sick) might have spearheaded it (it was certainly him that told me about it). Its just another example of what appears to be poor communication within Sunamp.

It’s a good question. I guess I could drill out a core lower down and see what it revels?

Good advice. The thin celotex was just shoved behind so not even in contact with the wall. There’s another cold/condensation point at the other end of the house in one of the bedrooms. I wonder how badly the cavity wall insulation has been pumped in.?

Ta. That mirrors my thoughts.

Outside render is all good and dpc appears intact. Suspended floor too and wall vents are unblocked. vents is a good idea.

Oh bother....damp is sooo annoying. Just taken out the utility room in the bungalow I’m currently working on to find that behind the units the walls are damp. I had a suspicion they might have had previous issues as there was celotex tucked into the back of the units. 1980’s build, cavity wall (filled with insulation from early 90’s). My guess is that it’s simply being caused by condensation but I’m not entirely certain. Perhaps the previous owners were a little mean with the heating? Units going back in the same positions so now I’m trying to decide on the best course of action? Any wise thoughts?

Correct. Its only one of the units and its absolutely when the unit becomes fully discharged. The official Sunamp fix is (and I quote verbatim)........"turn off the power, remove the front panel and pull a couple of inches of the stat wire out from the housing until you just start to see the curly bit". EDIT: Sorry, I should have added. I have applied the fix and it stills occasionally trips. Of course because the "fecking great big lump of goopy lard in a white tin box" has absolutely ZERO status feedback you NO IDEA its tripped. Apart from the cold water of course!

Might be worth dialling this back a bit. How big is you house (m2) and what is it’s energy requirement?

Welcome from another Devonian. Cant beat a bit it Torbados ? I was there only this week watching the Barry White tribute act at the Princess Theatre. Hey come on you’ve got to have a break from this self build lark. ?

I drew what I wanted and the kitchen fitter made it from standard kitchen drawers/cupboards and panels. My original plan was to make a stud frame/wall, clad with plasterboard and skim which would have been equally effective,