Tin Soldier

stupid stupid question the gulley traps do they need the hopper on top as you normally see 40mm waste going into or are the traps buried, with no hopper as the waste pipe exiting the building is 110mm

Evening all subsequent to a fallout with the builder who was going to be doing my drainage and front steps, looks like I’m on my own so drains are in the building and exit concrete slab internally externally I have nothing yet- other than the bits and pieces simple question first my plans show a gulley trap for kitchen sink, and the showers it shows the toilets connecting straight into the waste is this right? Sinks need gulley traps? Even though the wast pipe exits way below ffl thanks scott

SimplySimon thanks for the response, I have used Hardwax oil - looking great so far

Hi there, I'm ready to pain my kitchen cabinets. externals/doors will be painted interiors are oak veneered mdf for cabinetry and solid oak for drawers. Whats the best way to finish these? lacquer, varnish or oil? thanks Scott

as sorry you caught me out on ikea I need them to be minimum 2.7m length - which I don't think they do?

Morning After blowing our finances completely, our expensive worktop is on hold, so I need a temporary worktop that I can fit myself laminate is the lad, as they can be found cheap However, my kitchen cabinetry is 600mm deep, and so are all the cheap laminates that I can find - b and q, ikea, worktop express etc am I going mad? why are they not 620 mm like my existing to allow overhang? any advice on where to pick up the cheapest 620mm laminate?

Righto thanks People another question When making up your own liners, do you need to route in a trench, like the premade ones have? is there any jointing that has to go on prior to fitting with the top and sides?.. is it butt jointed or mitred etc any other tips much appreciated.

are door linings exact fit for door size i.e an 838 door lining is exactly 838 wide, or are they slightly wider to accommodate door opening?

thanks guys its nice to get confirmation of what I'm thinking didn't realise there was 125mm lining - I've asked TP for a quote

Hi There, I need to hang 8 doors, 5 of them I have purchased oak linings and stops 3 of them I will need to purchase standard pine linings Doors yet to be purchased but will be standard 1981 by 838 doors Situation as is I want to start with Pine linings so I'll focus my questions on this for the moment The apertures for internal doors are 212mm x 940mm x 123mm wide (The width of the aperture is made up of 2x 11.5mm plasterboard, 1xOSB sheet and timber stud) there is no flooring, but in the area that I will be lining with pine it will be carpeted at some point in the future when I have the money to do it. the lining options I see at my local TP are 115mm or 138mm 1. I assume I buy the 138mm liners and trim to fit on site 2. do I have the liners hard to the floor, ahead of the carpet coming - or do I have it raised of the ground 3. what width/height should I be looking for the final aperture to be. I've read I should leave 3-4 mm all round the door, with 20mm at the bottom? 4. recommended fixing method to timber studs? That's it for now - I will have questions re oak liners and doors - that's still to come.

Russell, I love that open jointed cladding - where is that pic from? I'd love to do something similar

Well yesterday was the worst day of self build so far, and that’s including the day I crushed two fingers into a compound fracture. after moving a 500kg hearth and 200 kg stove last week I tweaked my back carelessly lifting a bucket of self levelling compound on Sunday... after A rogue sneeze yesterday left me in pain I ventured out to chiropractor only for back to lock In spasm getting in and out of car, the worst pain in my life. i managed to hobble from car to chiro room before it completely locked unable to examine me the next five hours were spent stood on one foot in exactly the same position whilst my wife and chiro tried to beg an ambulance to come.. I literally couldn’t move without pain that had me on verge of blacking out they eventually and reluctantly agreed and one arrived at 2030- hours after chiro was supposed to close, another hour of gas and air and morphine and I made it onto ambulance and off to hospital where a combination of drugs eventually stopped spasm and I was released im at home now but a lot of pain, all because I didn’t lift from my knees. Moral of the story is to be as careful with lighter things as you are with half ton monoliths. im only 35, feel like an 80 year old

Yay!

here you go, expertly done in mspaint

in my case they could see the massive hole I had dug for a 40 ton soakaway, so were fairly convinced I was following the plans

Definitely BC

M8 Threaded Rods were the answer In place, and not only that - measurements were correct thank God

Russ when are you looking to erect the frame? i can ask my joiner

well its in the house at least I built a train track out of scaffolding board, forlifted the pallet onto some plywood topped rollers and roller it over to the scaffolding. Made a forklift track to the scaffolding then lifed up onto scaffolding which I'd prepped with another track into house trimmed the pallet with a jigsaw to maneuver into house with 4mm clearance either side through patio doors Scary times but its in at least going to self level the hearth area tonight so its dead flat, so I can just lay it on.

come great ideas do we reckon I need any form of mortar bed underneath, given its so heavy could I just silicon round the edges?

So I have a problem my lovely Caithness slate hearth has arrived, cut to fit the opening for my massive woodburner to sit on. I may have underestimated the weight of said hearth, as its over 500kg Now the problem is how to transfer from field to fireplace opening. I have a plan that gets me so far. Forklift round to patio doors. Which brings its own problems as I'll have to lay supports over the mud to drive the forklift over so it doesn't sink. Anyway, I can ' gently' lower the hearth onto a furniture dolly that looks like attached picture, and I can roll the hearth to site. However, how I get it off the dolly and lowered onto a mortar bed (well sand/cement mix) within the fireplace opening, I do not know. any bright ideas?

Very strange seeing someone develop on that site, My mother in law and both her parents worked there what was in the granite building next to your site, hopefully not the mortuary ?

If it’s sips your after I got the best price from THCL for the kingspan tek system they erected it for me

@russ_fae_fyvie Hi Russ. I got on pretty well to be honest looking back, still miles away from being finished but trying to do a lot myself, whilst having three kids under 6 and a million things to do is proving challenging laid 300mm of eps70 insulation no bother at all, took a couple of days, Working with the steel mess and upstands I didn't like so much, and the UFH loops were more time consuming than you would think - was still doing it at midgnight 7 hours before concrete pour. so if you want to test it, best give yourself plenty time. happy to answer any questions you have, or give you pointers to some cheap trades if you need I like your plans , very nice

Rationel by far and away cheapest for me, (ADW in Sauchen)