Tin Soldier

ProDave You've hit the nail on the head as to why I want the slab in early , in paid for and the kit manufacturer measures up That's a great idea re the blockwork and leaving some gaps to sweep the water Cheers Guys

Hi there, I'm setting about arranging trades to carry out the individual stages of my build after getting some frankly criminal quotes back from the local builders. my question relates to the slabwork, foundation blockwork and drainage. My build is schedule for April next year with the SIPS panel company coming onsite and erecting the house frame directly on preprepared blockwork/slab. The slab itself is not the final finish with insulation, UFH and screed going on top once the kit is erected. Can I build and leave the slab/blockwork this year, ready to go for April next year? What are the risks of leaving it exposed?

HI Alphonsox I installed a fair bit of this stuff myself in my workshop thought I cheated. I never invested in a pipe bender or thread/die set for creating threaded ends on the pipes. The deta conduit comes with threaded ends. Its really easy to cut with a hacksaw. I planned the route of the sockets etc to basically use straight lines and 90 degree turns so that I could utilized the connectors and not have to bend the pipe. I bought some couplers that do not use threaded connections, but instead have a wormscrew that you tighten to hold the conduit section in place. happy with the result, but might not suit what you want

no sap assessment required, I believe its based on ration of floorspace to glazing, could be wrong. I am toying with the idea of increasing the 100mm insulation, especially if I can get a good price on insulation - the 100mm was put in for building warrant etc. any recommendations on thickness? happy to install buffer tanks etc to assist, Just wondering is ASHP could be a goer

HI there, I have an extension planned for march next year. 130m2 sips constructed, vaulted ceiling, single storey. circa 160-170mm kingspan ceiling and wall insulation, 100mm insulation under the slab. I realise this is nowhere near the standards most on here insulated to, but it is what it is. UFH throughout the extension, circa 30m2 triple glazed windows. The existing property is insulated (not to any great level) oil fired combi boiler. no thermal store/cylinder. I'm exploring ideas around heating as efficiently as I can does anyone see any value in investigating a self installed ASHP to heat the ufh of the extension? We're in a pretty cold/windy part of Scotland, so not sure if it would cope any thoughts?

Hi trw thanks for writing have you any examples/websites of these stoves/thermal store with quenching device, sounds interesting but I'm not sure what to look out for

Any idea when fht may appear on the market?

Thanks for answering 1. so post extension there will be one upstairs shower room and one downstairs bathroom to the left of the cylinder in the picture approx. 5 meters away two down stairs shower rooms to the right approximately 25m away 2. Space up stairs is very limited. typical Scottish two up two down (originially) so there's no loft and pitched ceilings, looking at the size of header tanks I could possibly accommodate in the upstairs shower room, definitely no room upstairs for a thermal store. 3. Woodburner is the focal point of the room. Its a single storey vaulted ceiling type affair so hopefully won't overpower us. we have one in the old part of the house already. 4. I do have a virtually unlimited wood source, with a large stockpile, family in the forestry and a small wood (mine) at the end of our plot but I don't want to be tied to it as my only heat source. I'd rather have oil and ideally the option to heat via wood, though I can accept this may not be possible. Given the height ceilings (circa5-6 meters) I did wonder if it was possible to fit the thermal store/cylinder in the cupboard in the living room with a header above (that's the stars on the picture) not the end of the world if its not possible, but it would have been great to use the wood.

ok, so another question If I could have a header tank above the cylinder, but the cylinder still on the ground floor could the distance between the woodburner and cylinder be overcome, would it be feasible to heat from a woodburner?

Hi there, I'm not sure which forum to post this in, so I've taken a best guess I'll be starting large extension build next year which will involved installing a new external Oil Boiler connected to a hot water cylinder on the ground floor. unvented I believe, as there is nowhere to put a header tank? in the upstairs of the old house. The old part of the house is over two floors and will remain heated by radiators. the new extension will be underfloor heating. part of the extension is a large (to me) open plan area with a woodburner in it. now that I'm firming up the build, I'm wondering if there is any way to connect a woodburner to a cylinder, on the same floor level? Attached is a diagram of the current layout, there is hot water cylinder in a utlility room roughly 17m from the woodburner. the utility room is a single storey extension. I believe the proposed cylinder is unvented, which I guess it would need a pump to heat the radiators upstairs in the old part of the house. has anyone successfully been able to connect a woodburner/boiler stove on the same floor? .I have my doubts, but its worth a shot as I have access to an almost unlimited supply of firewood, I'd love to heat the radiators via woodburner as much as possible. I'm just in the process of engaging a builder, and would like to be able to speak to his plumber with some degree of understanding. any pointers, much appreciated.

curlewhouse what kind of thermal blocks did you use?

Hi there I've got 137m2 footprint SIPS Built Extension planned for next year Foundation/Slab design by architect is very much standard fare (after reading this forum) strip fill foundations, 100m Kingspan TF70 insulation, 100mm Slab and 70mm UFH Screed. Is it worth looking into changing this to a more thermally efficient slab? would it require more architects and SE fees, more planning fees? or is this something I can pursue myself and have building control approve? I'm already panicky about my soleplate rotting away to nothing, now I'm having doubts about the foundations/slab

Thanks guys, some really good suggestions here, which I'll be looking at during my time off next week Mintlaws not far from me, in terms of collection IBC's Pond's still looking like the most likely option at the moment

I have to admit I do like their price, that's supply only but includes cills Should I be worried about Rationel only having a 5 year warranty period?

Well there's some interesting prices in here, which does make me wonder if I'm being taken for a ride. Prices exc VAT for 8 Topswing Windows, an Entrance Door (with two sidelights), Laminated large fixed window and some sliding patio doors (3.0*2.1) Rationel 9363.57 Velfac 15076.05 Nordvest 12975.38 Nordica 13728.60 When Challenged Velfac immediately offered me a special discount down to 9750, but were incredibly pushy, high pressure sales people. which instantly makes me ignore their calls. Still waiting to hear back from internorm, idealcombi and a local 3g pvc company Can anyone advice on the likelihood of getting a better deal from rationel, or is the price you get the price you pay?

Alex- I'm building in the cheap side of the shire, Quilquox, Ythanbank in the Bermuda triangle between Auchnagatt, Ellon and Methlick Its a large (~130m2) extension I'm building Onoff, thanks, very interesting. Triassic, I think we're talking the same kind of money for crates as a tank, I'll have a shift though.

Thanks people, great responses been talking over a pond with the wife, looks like a go-er

So, as part of my building warrant I require to have onsite storage of water for a fire engine to use in the event of a fire. They fire dept originally requested 23000 litres, but have compromised on 10,000 that's a fair size tank.. Above ground tanks come in at £1100, plus extortionate delivery to where I live (rural Aberdeenshire). The wife thinks they are massive and ugly. Underground tanks are easily double the cost. Any suggestions for cheaper alternatives to storing 10,000 litres, preferably underground. I have land, I have a digger, a willingness to work and a steading roof that could supply the water. 10x IBC Tanks?, some sort of waterproof chamber? any ideas?

Hello from me, I'm delighted that I've stumbled upon this forum, its right up my street. I've got a 130m2 single storie, vaulted ceiling (for the most part) extension lined up to start in March next year. KingspanTek SIPS system I'm pretty hands on which most things, so having a forum I can get some answers based on real life experience is great. I've already started, I've knocked down an old rubble built stable to make way and installed a 40 ton Foulwater soakaway.

I think Kingspantek sips has 15mm osb facings