Tin Soldier

sorry prodave I must have missed that, whoops When you say I need a short extending section, what is the need for this? at the moment I was thinking of twinwall up to roughly 5 metres, a short angled bit to move the flue back a couple of feet, then twinwall straight up from there the further 2.5 meters,

HI There, I've been running myself around in circles trying to figure out how I'm going to get the woodburner in about a timber wall, looking at metal stud and fireline board (as below fireline is not a1 rated?) and a1 rated fireboard such as monlux etc I'd like to go back to my architect and ask why metal stud was specified etc as per below, but I refuse to go back to them so I'm asking here instead. Now I understand minimum distances to combustibles etc for the stove and the flue and that vitreous pipe on a stove gets extremely hot and you need upwards of 450mm distance which is not really suitable. but to put it simply, the stove I am going to use requires a distance to combustibles of 200mm to rear, 150 to side and 456 above. The twinwall flue requires 50mm to combustibles. If I ran twin wall from top to bottom, all the way down to attach to stove (Ie no vitreous pipe), is the above the minimum I would need to be from the finished surface? So I could just cobble together a standard timber fake chimney breast etc? and line with plasterboard (tiled behind in behind the fire) am I being thick?

@ultramods apologies I feel like I'm stalking you now The plumber I've arranged locally (he's maud based) has completed my heating changeover (old oil combi to new oil boiler with thermal store) Charges £27 per hour, was happy to quote in any way I wanted, copper, plastic or tektite? (I might have that last one wrong) He's starting my first fix plumbing next week. Didn't do my underfloor heating as I put the pipework in, but does do underfloor heating. So solely looking at the hourly rate, that seems high.

typo, sorry Concrete meshmen, got them from Travis perkins, cheap as chips they support at either 40mm or 50mm, dependent on what you need.

@Ultramods I changed my floor makeup at the last minute to save on screed after getting quotes for 6k plus for it, plus the cost of the 150 PIR, plus the drying time etc. Changed the floor from 100mm c25 with 150mm PIR on top, then ufh pipes, then 70mm screed to 125 c25 mm with 300mm of eps70 underneath, with my underfloor heating pipes ziptied to the mesh held halfway in the concrete. I only needed 230mm of eps to make up the same U Value, but I went with 300mm as it allowed me to get a decent bulk discount on 100mm sheets. I installed all the ufh pipework and insulation myself over the course of a few days

ahh, I forgot about delivery Yes extra £500 to get delivered up to Aberdeenshire on a hi ab, which I also managed to get discounted Kingseat's a nice spot, I drive past the turn off from the pitmedden road every day on route to work. My wifes from a couple of miles away from there in whitecairns, her mother and grandparents were all nurses at kingseat for years. There's some useless info for you

Forgot to ask ultramods- where are you building?

I only managed to get 3.5% discount from ally @ adw but I only had 22m2 really nice guy though

thanks everyone- On the mend now - desperate to get going again. I'm estimating I can start self levelling patches in two weeks. fractured the tip of my middle finger, completely smushed the tip of ring finger- I had already moved it back a bit before I got to hospital as I was worried it would fall off before I got there, it was almost at 90 degrees when I stood up . I have to say, much to my amazement I have had only sympathy from my better half. They surgeon ended up taking the top bit off, cleaning up the bone and reattaching, which fortunately saved the first third of my finger, but I will end up with a deformed nail etc if it grows back a nice reminder of self building. For three hours I though they were 'terminating my finger' which was pretty much cut a bit off and sew it up, so anything is a win after that. Sorry if that's too much detail. Anyway I have a window/ door related question All of the smaller windows are fitted. 8cm overhang for windows into blockwork (span the 50mm gap, and something for sills to sit under), 6cm overhang for timber clad bits of house. All of these windows sit on a sips panel as hey are normal height so to speak. Question around the patio door and entrance door/sidelights. They will sit on the inner blockwork. Both will be timber clad externally. Seems a bit odd to overhang these 6cm, the same as everything else. I'd have thought they would sit further in, but I don't know if that would look odd? any advice? theres no info on the rationel site.

Windows undamaged believe it or not my fingers took the brunt of it... I’m so angry with myself as it’s put me massively backwards. finest week of weather we’ve had and I’ve been unable to start the roof

Whoops, dropped one and didn’t get out of the way 100kg stopped by a mere finger or two, ouch

thumbs p guys, seems like a consensus

Looking to bamboo my open plan kitchen/living area. Should you run flooring up to the plinths in a kitchen, or all the way to the wall, prior to kitchen cabinet being fitted? Can't seem to get a clear steer on this Scott

Cheers Dudda I think I'll get some wider treated 22mm board, cant seem to get wider 25mm treated wood I guess 22mm is fine as the strapping is 3mm, and any other slack I can shim

I'm so confused as to how to attach the windows to the frame. The opening is literally 50mm bigger all round The insulation is 25mm, The straps on the window are 2.5mm attached is a pic of the proposed window installation detail for the blockwork part of the house also attached is a pic of a window, dry fitted with 25mm roofing batten packers last night obviously I could line the opening with 25mm insulation, but I don't like the idea of screwing a strap into the frame through insulation. I cant find any detailing anywhere that shows what to do with the straps?

Also, I no longer converse with said architect,

HI there, My architect specified that the window openings in my sips kit were 50mm bigger than window size to allow for 25mm on insulation to be installed all round for the window to sit in. How does this work in practice? Rationel specify a 3mm galvanized strap attached to window and timber kit, which, I guess would screw through the insulation and into the kit? Is this strong enough? will it matter that theres insulation in between window jamb and kit? As for the windows themselves they will sit on the sips kit at varying depths dependent on final finish. the timber clad bit the windows will see 65mm sit on the kit, with the remains of the window overhanging the cavity (and its timber firestop). As it overhangs the cavity do I continue the insulation out over the timber firestop or cut it short at the end of the panel? does any of this make sense?

So, Required Lead for my valleys and soaker costs £950 or so + my time to learn how to shape it, plus cutting etc for circa half he money I can purchase a GRP alternative, ready formed https://www.hambleside-danelaw.co.uk/downloads-support/open-valley-trough-scottish-slate-roofs/ Has anyone used a similar product? are they horrendous, acceptable or somewhere in between? through in another alternative - aluminium http://www.kytun.com/v4/501b5369-a8d0-477f-97cd-4a81668870fc/uploads/KYTUN Datasht - C12 Dry ValleyNEW.pdf Would match the dry verge I'm planning on using.. but will it look crap.

I like

Prodave, have you got 6x2 on the gables too?

Hi there Can anyone tell me why fasica/soffit are so boxy, and stick out so far. Is there some sort of minimm distance that a gutter must be from the wall, is there a minimum overhand of roof structure at both gable and non gable ends? I really like the look of older Scottish properties that come without this chunky addon, but is there a smart way to avoid this detailing is there some solution that is minimalist, sleek and weatherproof? I've looked at Kytun dry verge but can this be attached to the wall or a batten, or does it need an overhand and fasica/soffit box from the 90's

Wow, that's not great I've literally just done a similar size project, laying 300mm eps, mesh and tieing ufh pipes to mesh, Our concrete has gone in, again nowhere near level - I'm hoping I don't encounter what you have. - I've not had any time to fully inspect prior to the sips panels going up. I really hope I've got everything in the right place otherwise there'll be a lot of digging out and fixing. how are you chipping out the concrete?

Howdy my windows are being delivered via hi-ab next week, so I assume palletised Its just dawned on me that I somehow need to get these things in a house that's surrounded by scaffolding one of the windows is 200kg. and others a fair size too How can I get them from trackside into house? is there anything that I can get to assist me?

Morning All So I have two options for a continuous vapour control layer to meet building regs - according to the architect anyway either install a membrane all over and use standard plasterboard or his preferred method of duplex / vapour check plasterboard. Difference in cost to me is £700 between the two, plus my time to install the membrane (It's a very large area and high ceilings) Are there pros and cons to either? A separate question, My local builders mechants only supplies tapered edge plasterboard, is this an issue when skimming? should I find square edge somewhere else?

There’s no one around me I’m detached rural setting, septic tank of my own old bit of house has multiple svp to atmosphere so it’s just the new bit and one down stairs room in the old bit I’m focussed on if I’m reading correctly above I can use aav ?