Tin Soldier

I'm gonna say they cover the screws that attach toilet to floor

Rob I used setcrete deepbase does up to 50mm

we definitely needed vcl, though I just boarded it out with foil backed plasterboard instead

example of sips panels for part of my roof ready to be lifted on

I have built a single storey 135m2 extension built using Kingspan Tek Sips It's allowed me to have 4m vaulted ceiling, and loftspace above that's warm and sealed, some interesting angles too It was purchased through THCL, who subcontract the work of erection of the kit out The team of 4 that arrived were incredibly diligent and hardworking, and specialised in this work, so the erection of if went pretty smoothly panels that were delivered onsite were perfect and did not need tweaking, which cannot be said for some of the supporting timber that was supplied wrongly The erection were not happy with the slab that was laid in terms of flatness, and 1 part being slightly askew, but worked around it no problems battening out for plasterboard etc Its nice and toasty happy to answer any specific questions

not sure what you mean do you mean these? https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/tools-accessories-2/isolation-valves-pair/

ok thanks gents, very much appreciated, I'll have an attempt at it tonight and see how it goes

are you saying I need to chip off the skimmed plaster in order for tape to adhere to it?

Hi there, I've had to alter the size of my door openings, lowering the head by 11cm, which for some reason were left too big by panel company and I never though to check before everything was boarded and skimmed, I've done this utilising cls timber, and faced the timber with plasterboard so that its just shy of level with current skimmed walls. so this has left me with a problem. my architraves are 9cm, which leaves 2cm of bare plasterboard above (between architrave and skimmed wall) and unfortunately I'll have to do this for every door What is the easiest method of patching this up myself - without getting plasterer in. the walls are unpainted, but are skimmed. is there ready made plaster/product that I can use to fill and sand? I'm worried about it cracking as doors will be opened and closed etc - are there any meshes/ alternatives to add in to stop that from happening? any advice greatly appreciated Scott

yes out of house and into other section of fouls, AAV it is then

sorry to hijack thread, but I guess its relevant question If you are converting a room downstairs to a bathroom of an existing 2 storey property, can you use an aav, given there is another bathroom on the 1st floor above (with vent through the roof? or with it have to have its own soil vent pipe through the roof? it would be joining the existing foul drains outside the property

Has anyone got a source for a reasonable priced feed and expansion tank, either stainless or copper 30-40 litres? I am not liking the prices I am currently seeing.

Hi Nick Do you have any comment on the system diagram above, I appreciate your expertise in these type matters,

Alex Did you install the laddomat etc yourself?

I've not found them overly helpful their response was We don't sell direct so you will have to purchase the product through a Plumbing Merchant. We deal with most of the main ones all over the country. In terms of price, you are looking at €708.00 (Nett) for the 30Kw Heat Genie with 1.3 m probe or €765.00 (Nett) for the 30Kw Heat Genie with 4m probe. These prices are excluding V.A.T. and are only a guideline for you.

Thanks Alex good link - laddomat cheaper than I have found, and a decent priced flue thermostat, would save me a bob or two depending on shipping cost

well my issue with the panels, all in one solutions is they seemed to be priced to try and take the hassle away the heat Genie comes in at over £700 + some extraneous items, as does the nrg link from ireland the laddomat set up above can be achieved for circa £500, but with a little hassle. I'm currently looking at how to power the pump in the event of power failure, even if just for an hour to allow fire to die down.

bought direct from Ireland?

HI Miller Where did you source the heat genie from, and could I ask what the cost was? I have heard of it, but they told me they don't sell direct

Apologies for asking another layout question- theres lots on here but I'm not sure mine will work over distances involved The situation at the moment is that I have self built a large single storey extension (with 4m high ceilings in living space and a loft) (135m2) attached to an old 135m2 farmhouse. within the old farmhouse, on the ground floor I have a 500 lt pressurised/sealed thermal store, complete with appropriately sized expansion vessel. This is powered by a 30kw oil boiler and heats the house through conventional radiators. In the extension I have an underfloor heating manifold connected to the thermal store which provides ufh throughout. I have a new boiler stove- an Arada Stratford 25HE Ecoboiler Wood Burning Multi Fuel Boiler Stove, which requires an open vented system, and as such I was thinking of a load valve or loadunit/plate exchanger etc. I am yet to purchase anything that would go between woodburner and thermal store I have plumbed in and insulated 28mm flow and return pipes from the thermal store to the woodburner, which is roughly 20m away on the same level, but the pipes route up and through the ceilings. I have plumbed in an overflow pipe from loft above thermal store down and out through wall I have access to mains cold water in loft above woodburner I would have ample room in the loft above the woodburner to install any equipment I would appreciate advice on whether a laddomatt type install would work (picture attached) also would a load unit/load vale be able to be placed in loft 4m above WBS - level with plate heat exchanger 4 m or does it have to be level with WBS The stove outputs 22.5kw to water - I've not bought, nor sized heatsink radiator, but I've plenty room to put multiple rads I was planning a pipestat or flue pipe stat to kick off the pump in load unit please ignore the fact both ports are linked on back of WBS that's just from a graphic I stole

I find that if I stop, I take a long time to start again. Therefore I cannot stop, every night i'm out there doing something for minimum 3 hours it is difficult with 3 kids under 6, to balance work, build and supporting the wife, but If I don't do it, no one else will...

Haha well good to hear we’re all in the same boat, I toned it down to once to save face

Hi no problem with patio unfortunately I already have rodding eyes,, traps etc, so inspection chambers would add cost - possible I could go ahead and buy them though not sure on the 222, I think that might be wall width as its where two structures meet nothing in the notes of any interest in terms of 'foul drainage;

I had two mins, so here is an excerpt from plans (you can see gulley trap noted at sinks) you can see rodding access then you have my mspaint rough an ready drawing

@mvincentd I had a crisis too, last December before any of the build started I was on the phone with my wife at 9am, from work, crying like a baby believe it or not she told me to quit my job, and forget the build - which gave me the kick up the backside I needed