TonyT

level attachment for drill? other makes are available https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374700960517?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749401&toolid=20006&customid=GB_11700_374700960517.143190959455~1869363522882-g_EAIaIQobChMIxNPzgZecggMV1JCDBx0Mswv_EAQYBCABEgIw-_D_BwE

Let’s be honest the developer will blame everyone else in this matter, you will get stressed. they will put more effort into not doing the work, this will go on for months/years they will then realise they have some retention monies from the original contractor held back and use this against them and the same muppets who fitted it will come back to rectify it, blaming more people. it will still be rubbish and then the arguing starts again. might be better to try for a cash settlement and find a decent handy person yourself/diy.

Plus 1, rip it out and start again, just like the song

BC inspected my foundation excavation and then came back when the build was finished to do the completion certificate Got to love councils that can’t be arsed

As long as they are made to the British standards buy the cheapest you want if you are replacing them later.

Electrician needs to take a chill pill, worrying about 3 double sockets… in an environment that will likely see no overloading. chasing work. Find another spark

You don’t rely on the uninsulated pipework to heat your house, so insulate it to keep efficiency of the heat system higher/reduce these losses

Seek structural Engineer to get permission to drill steels to utilise larger pipes and not compromise design

Look at your current energy bills to see what kind of consumption you have. That’s a good starting point

My village is currently getting wired for fibre, lots of coils of fibre at existing telegraph poles, temp road closures for underground chamber works in roads I assume the fibre is overhead like the copper cable slung in the air fixed to the building and then entering into the property. what sort of size is the BT fibre box, does it work with existing BT Routers, or do they need replaced too? cheers

Not following this post?

Dig in a French drain, to try and get as much surface water away from the building. A sump pump is useful if you know that the water will collect In that location but probably not the case with an old building. maybe get a pair Of fans bringing air in and extracting it to keep humidity under control to start with heating will help too along with the air Strategy of keeping stuff off the floor is a good idea!

Best to fit 2 single sockets for washing machine/TD. To prevent overloading of the double socket…

Get a small level and hold it on the drill bit, you get them about 60mm or so long. experience will then tell you when you are holding the drill correctly, or get someone to look at the drill from the side

Wouldn’t you just sit the washing machine on the floor and stack the TD, just like a normal integrated appliance?

Ensure the kick plate isn’t a continuous length so that the section at the machine can be removed easily. Ensure plenty ventilation around the TD at all times

Have a look at viesmann boilers they can do a 1:17 modulation I think from memory

Who knows, not like the OP has answered any of the questions that others have asked to help.

Personally I would go for a 45 amp switch, I just like things but be operating at max all the time,but it’s under 32 amps so up to you!

There is probably big gaps in the floor or wall behind washing machine/dishwasher, just seen similar in my niece’s new build, where a water supply pipe comes up in a hole about 100mm diameter, hole not sealed, plasterboard not taped, no skirtings .

Use off peak electricity for DHW. give the heat pump a rest!

My woodburner in my lounge does a good job of heating the room, and the hallway/rooms off it temp sensors in this location prove this to be true in my case

Makita TD0101F 240V 1/4" Hex Impact Driver?

Wouldn’t think it would make a difference, as long as there is a gap all the way around you get bench’s radiator Indeed I have one in my son’s room, just make sure it has the required output for the heat loss of the room.

Professional painters generally don’t do what DIY’ers do. start at the top and work down would be my advice for general painting.