TonyT

You could connect the pump up to a Shelly power monitor, will give you power/energy readings, you could also add the add on unit to the power meter that lets you add 5 x temp sensors so you could monitor flow/return etc

Looks like a countersunk screw too, round head, or tec as far as I’m concerned

IO Go for me with 5.5 hrs cheap leccy helps charge the car and some heaters

And they aren’t lying, they aren’t telling you it’s the best way to control your equipment though, just sell you more stuff like any good retailer.

Taking switches and lights back to a central point lets you add automation in one location and if it fails, it’s easy to then join cabling together and bypass automation. if I had the space I would do that. 3core and earth to switch so it has a feed, switch wire and neutral, and 3 core at lights for same reason.

https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/mains-switch-rf-pump-overrun-switch-mainsswitch01/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpfjJ6saIhAMV2pFQBh2YywwJEAQYAiABEgLPQ_D_BwE

I lost my post, so if it was my house, I wouldn’t stress, I would have suitable labels, isolators in place, double pole RCD protection, not shown in the regs snapshot above but that’s perfect world, engineering decisions have to be made. etc but it’s your spark doing the install that needs to sign it off. How are you going to measure the current on the taiks via a CT?

Is 200litres enough for your needs is the first question? cylinder manufacturers generally advise on how many kW required to heat the cylinder from cold to hot in 20 minutes I recall larger coil size = less reheat time. do you have PV? Will you have top/bottom immersions too to provide back up and utilise excess PV generation? can the hatch be made larger, a day’s joinery work will Have the hatch enlarged, giving more options for larger diameter cylinders? will the loft take the weight? Good luck

Get an air rifle and practice on the cable on your land, plead ignorance when it comes down, and refuse the repair

Normal drill is fine, you just take your time

You don’t add a low loss header for adding efficiency, generally used if you have more than one boiler or multiple pumps to provide hydraulic separation to the system. you have a decent boiler I wouldn’t stress any more .

Piece of galvanised sheet metal same colour as steps. Fixed with round head screws for accessibility.

You probably get more saving swapping the pump for a more energy efficient model, wrap some extra insulation around the cylinder too

Watch the speedfit pipes they should come straight out of the fitting, the picture shows them at no angle, putting unnecessary strain on the fitting.

When I’m talking about loft, I also mean floored, lighting, safe working space not standing on trusses servicing boiler. pipe boxes can easily, be made, painted to blend in. not sure about gas pipes running inside, but you could run one parallel with a rainwater down pipe

Remember you get expanding foam and in similar sized cans adhesive different products

Can the boiler not go in the loft? or above the cylinder with vertical flue?

Is tado smart cause you can use a smart phone to control it? or does it do anything else?

So add a programmer in series with the thermostat so that you can over rule it if you want.

Put an architrave around it

Fit it in the consumer unit

The photos don’t open for me.just the video.

Video zoomed out a bit would be helpful to see other pipework.

Just cause they have all the kit, doesn’t. Mean it’s been installed properly , commissioned properly or the end user is using it properly, that’s before we look at the build quality.