TonyT

Tubular heater behind a grill

The panels come with connectors on them, so you just need to link them up in series depending on the string voltage of the inverter. tje cable to the inverter will needs ends fitted, and then mounting isolators inverter, etc

Dig hole, line with landscape fabric, fill with large stones, wrap stones up with fabric cover up.

Get the controller from the same manufacturer has the heat pump so there are non3rd party issues.

Sensible solution would be to add a duct and run cables in duct to allow extra cables such as CT cabling or data to be added..

The filling loop should not be left connected in, remove it to eliminate this as a source of the pressure increase

Run cable behind camera, camera mounting covers hole in wall and cable

Can you get a heat loss calculation done for your house say the heat engineer app, costs a tenner to see what the build is like? what about hiring a thermal camera to help ‘see’ poor insulation/ poor build details? check UFH is functioning properly?

countersunk screws…… no.

Is the hot water return just cooling the cylinder if it’s on for 13.5 hours? You are pumping hot water around a loop of pipe most of the day, cooling the cylinder as it goes,

Are the press tool and fittings compatible with each other?

Can you not consider local trades instead of a timber frame company, they will make a frame on site for far less.

the £2k. May have saved all the actuators, extra pumps and hassle so may have cost You nothing extra i like a specification to put out to tender so all contractors quote for the same product, lets you compare apples to apples.

Ok fit a fused switched spur and let them go mad.

Why not spur on a ring is acceptable by BS7671.

Where are you in the UK My council (Fife) will take electrical certificates from any electrician as long as they supply a SJIB/JIB card which proves qualifications

Thats the old one, new one is something like 225 pages. Covers all the heat geek stuff as no doubt they are one in the same just in more bite size portions

just buy the CIBSE domestic heating design guide for £20 or something had all the same info..

Or take the Swa inside and do the joint and never have to worry about water ingress

Although it’s a different person, I found it was the same email thread, just that the email handler was unable to read/digest several emails before replying and just go with email reply 1.

If you ask a technical question they don’t answer quickly. standard direct debit type questions answered quickly songuess they just go for the low hanging fruit

That the max the cut out can handle not what the fuse might be, could be anything up to 100

Drain back

For the solar thermal. Seen that done before

Don’t see why not, if plywood got wet it would be useless, so it’s 100% better than plasterboard fixings, and saves it going on the skip