TonyT

Mine was something similar, I describe it as over sized architraves that are only fixed to the window and doors that let these unit float in the opening, same on both sides

My rates with Octopus attached for comparison

So it’s a destrat fan??

UFH going in? whats the heat loss calculation like for the building? you need a perimeter insulation band all around the outside walls dont think 100mm PIR is enough!

Lack of RCD on circuits looks like red and black singles feeding the transformer? is there an earth Conductor to the main water pipe and main gas pipe if applicable?

Plus 1 to the above, my choice to, proven and reliable, i don’t want my fire safety dependant on an App or Wi-Fi!

I’ve got a 2 metre one, hidden nicely behind a bespoke radiator cabinet. Ready for a heat pump when the gas boiler breaks down and isn’t cost effective to repair. Serviced last week, now 6 years old so it’s a while away. will replace another radiator next year when we redecorate another room, and that’s me heat pump temp ready. a few more insulation projects to reduce demand and I should be good to go..

Factor in if you don’t use gas for anything else, you are saving on the daily standing charge if you get the gas supply disconnected, easily another £180 a year in my case.

Check out your local authority mine collects certain items free of charge. It allocates a certain number of points for an item and you can have a certain numerical amount for free per year.

Would 2 units heat the remote corners of the house? I plan on fitting one in my family room 60m2 to provide heating/cooling and another at a later date in the ground floor hall to heat the hall/first floor hall and any rooms off it plan will be to utilise off peak electricity to preheat the home and if required top up with the combi boiler if required.

Not my commercial jobs, we stipulate conduit drops in partitions, but it’s a boring world if everyone is the same!

Yep, tried them all. if there is the opportunity to add a dwang/noggin, it should be done and a metal box fitted as far as I’m concerned. flat plate accessories look better flat to the wall….

Not a fan of plastic fast fix dry lining box on new builds. you have access to the stud so I would put a 35mm deep knock out box in.. just me though

You get an adjustable metal bracket for fitting boxes too. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXTWB16.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=FXTWB16&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjw5_GmBhBIEiwA5QSMxNrsYt_g9-icT7e-CgMKXXdnRRINr4jPr9oSlZHA1uHPAqvj_ERA6hoCFB0QAvD_BwE you can also screw timbers in if you want

You need to draw the existing set up as a schematic so people can see how it’s plumbed, and a little story( control philosophy ) on how it works, ie press heating controller button one and x valve operates and boiler fires up. That kind of idea. Let’s people see what you have got, what’s possible to change/alter. everything is possible it just needs space/time/money/right people

Put a hot water return in, if you are getting grief about long delays for hot water?

Have you considered a free standing oil heater controlled via a smart plug?

We have 3m high floor to ceiling heights throughout which I like, I’ve been in large new builds with the standard 2.4m and I think if it was that. It bigger it would have more Wow.

When they visit to inspect have the unit off. that will be a good noise reading.

Sell the old house, bank the cash build new house without any other external hassles such as tenants and not selling when you need to..

Could you alter the time on the pir to the minimum as you say in the original post you are unsure if the switch or the pir is bringing the light on.

This can be a sensible suggestion, saves a lot of mess with pulling the old ceiling down, and disposal costs of old ceiling. I did it in my Victorian dining room, for this very reason.

You need to show what’s at the other switches and light fittings to see how it’s wired. I’ve not seen an intermediate PIR

The photo shows an intermediate switch. green and yellow sleeping required on the bare copper and some brown tape on the other conductors.

well done to anyone with the knowledge and skills to make these modifications, hopefully it will make the manufacturers improve their control when they can see what can be done!!