Roundtuit

Depending on what they are, they might still be a winter food source for wildlife. If you're not in a hurry, I'd wait until any hawthorn berries etc have gone, then get the digger in.

Yes. It might be dusty, ugly, and feel like living in a building site, but there are no practical downsides.

For info, in the 'olden days', before the advent of plasterboard, walls/ceilings were built with thin laths of wood nailed to studs/joists and then plastered over with lime plaster, often with horse hair in the mix to help it bind. Phased out from 1930's I think.

My thoughts exactly...

Sorry, I can't add anything other than to echo the previous comments, but out of interest, is it an old house? Perhaps a lath and plaster ceiling?

Not specific to renovations, but generally lenders like to be confident that you've got funding in place to finish the job from the start, so I'd expect them to require the full deposit up front.

Sorry, can't advise. I never actually bought anything. I thought it was just a like a 'classified ads' place where people advertised their stuff, then you did the deal however it suits.

We use a clothes horse in the utility room with mvhr, and can dry a washing machine full overnight with no problem, and no condensation or high humidity. We do still have a condensing drier though, in case we need to turn anything round quickly. I'd invest in a new drier rather than mess about trying to duct your old one. Venting directly into the room might put steam into the room at a faster rate than the vent can clear.

It's difficult to tell exactly what we're looking at. Is the second pic a bit of quadrant in a corner? Anyhow, I'd give the mdf a good rub down with some fine sandpaper and another coat of paint, then caulk it again. I don't think you can rely on paint filling those gaps I'm afraid. Oh, and caulk after you've primed, not before.

If it doesn't look finished now, I can't see a sealer making the difference tbh. What are you looking for from a sealer?

I had to create an account for the same purpose earlier this year - instant access at the time.

I bought standard outdoor sockets and let them back into the brick as far as possible, but you still end up with about 30mm + sticking out of the wall to allow for the front to hang up, cable access etc

Got a bit bored reading their response tbh. Looks like a 'holding' position whilst they decide what to do, with nothing of substance. They are probably just buying some time trying to find a way to get their ass off the line. The installation problems aren't going to go away on their own and aren't really subjective, so I think you're in a strong position to get it sorted. It'll be interesting to see what Vent Axia say.

If the old patio was dodgy, I'd want at least 100mm of type 1 compacted. Are they raising the height of the patio to avoid digging down? As above, the fall on the patio should run away from the house, so the drain needs to go where gravity dictates if the water can't soak away into the ground. Sounds like they don't much like digging.

Rather you than me, but I'm sure it's not a first. ? If 185mm is what you've got to play with, I'd put some more insulation in and use a thinner liquid screed I think.

As above, hacksaw and carefully, and deffo some timber to stop the profile distorting. There might be a risk of burning the powder coating back from the edge a bit if a cutting disc is used.

Our dishwasher came with an aluminium plate to fix to the underside of the worktop above the dishwasher (well, it would have done if I hadn't bought it off ebay). Google 'bosch vapour barrier plate' and you'll get the idea. I'd clean up your delaminated stuff to level it off, seal it with a coat or 2 of gloss paint or exterior varnish, then hide it all under a shiny metal plate. Job done!

Yeah... been meaning to say cheers for that...

Sacrifice a handsaw?

You're not likely to absorb any through skin contact, but the edges can be sharp, and it turns your hands black.

Maybe more experience of living in a damp house, but I'm no expert. I've read your link, and there's some really interesting thoughts in there. Every day's a school day! No-one's deliberately feeding you BS; ask for advice and if you're lucky you'll get some. It's up you to filter it.

That doesn't seem to be quite the case, but hey ho. At least we've got a newly-minted damp expert to call on.

Owning it yourself is the only way to control its future use. Assuming it is registered to someone, why not try and find the owner and have a chat. If they don't want to sell, you can at least make them aware of your neighbours activity...

Hi @mike2020 Sounds like a great project, and I see from your other posts that you've had some good advice from experts on old buildings and I admire your enthusiasm. I spent 10 years or so renovating a listed building, and I'd just suggest that you need to decide where you want to be on the spectrum from 'historical purist' to 'financially viable renovation'. That will help you decide whether you're going to try to replace a ceiling with lath and lime plaster full of horse hair, or take a more pragmatic view using modern materials. Your house: your balance! Good luck!

Can't comment specifically on laurels, but I planted 250 hornbeam bare root plants. Setting out to do the best possible job, half of them were planted in a dug-over trench, but because it took forever, the other half were planted in slots with a spade. There's was never any visible difference in development, so I've probably put in another 250 mixed native hedging in using the slot method since, with less than 5% losses. Watering next year is probably going to be the most important factor. Top tip: get a few extra and pot them up, in case you need to replace a few in the first season.