Roundtuit

Yes, but there will be restrictions on lift and distance different models can do I suspect. You could potentially install a sewage pumping station in the floor; probably quieter than a saniflo.

I'd guess the dpc has failed, but I'd probably start with the chimney and check capping, flashing and ventilation. What's the topography like? Are you on the same level as your attached neighbour? Ground floor above external ground level?

Welcome! Ask the questions; there's lots of clever people on here with loads of experience, and we all learn from the answers!

I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, but the government website doesn't mention listing at the Valuation Office, but does require a BC sign off as evidence of completion: https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/how-to-claim

Sorry, can't recommend anything, but as a last resort, if you feel strongly enough about it, you can just pop the aluminium cladding off and replace it, or maybe get it re-sprayed.

Include parking as well and that should cover it I would have thought. Do you need to do one? They're only really for bigger developments and listed building work I think. I did one years ago for a listed building application, and the 'access' part wasn't more than a paragraph from memory.

Definitely grout; it's structurally important for the block and beam and worth spending the time to do a good job. My builder did a bit of a slapdash job tbh. I ended up have to chip off a load of 'snots' so the insulation would sit properly flat and fill the bits he missed. Do it straight away after the block and beam goes down, or all the gaps will get full of crap and leaf debris, particularly as we head into an early autumn.

I'd just politely respond and explain what you've just posted. We moved in months before sign-off, and like you, got the house ready for sign-off as and when we could. It can't be unusual.

Batten the wall and bring the wall panel down on to the tray would be my suggestion.

Phew!

I did, I said 'No'. If you click on the link you posted and go back one page ('Back to Bright nails' - you were shopping in the Bright Nails section...), it tells you that bright nails are uncoated. Anyway, pleased you're sorted...

No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉

I win, I win! Is there a prize?

Almost 3 yrs to the day! Doesn't time fly when you're having fun! 🤣

I can't recall all of the details, but someone local to us renewed their front fence, and put a sliding gate within a couple of metres of the road. I think they had to apply for retrospective PP, and highways objected on similar grounds ie. vehicles waiting on the road. They countered with some bull$hit about them being remote controlled, so could be opened on the approach of a vehicle in enough time to avoid obstructing the road. I'd have made them take the gate off, but it worked for them...

Sounds like a great offer for someone!

I'd use a 'standard' mix - 1 part cement: 2 parts sharp sand (that's the gritty stuff): 3 parts 20mm gravel. Mix in wheelbarrow, adding water a bit at a time. When you think it needs just one more splash of water, stop, 'cos that's probably going to be one splash too many. This is probably the least expensive part of the job and materials are easily available, so you could have a play around first if you wanted...

Very nice! See how I included you there... very touchy-feely I thought.

Like that's ever stopped you... Anyhow, weren't you planning a 'Green wall'? Did you find a solution?

Hmm... I'm going to stick with Capsids. The Southern Green Shield bug is known to favour beans. Not sure how it feels about peppermint, but worth a try.

Looks like a natural plant response to some sort of pest grazing damage. It's probably superficial and will scrape off when you wash them. I'm going to say Capsids, but mainly 'cos I like the word. (Capsids...)

Do you happen to have a 'before' photo of the flat roof side? It looks a bit like they've built the new roof on top of the old one, and hence the 'difficulties' at the ridge. No easy answers I suspect...

Sorry, I don't know enough about piling to add anything useful, but piles are usually designed to transfer load vertically to load-bearing strata. What you appear to have is a plot that's sliding down hill, which perhaps may potentially put lateral stress on the piles. Personally, I think your SE should be designing the foundations and then you can put the approved design out to tender.

I don't want to put a downer on your creativity, but it sounds like finding out what the roof covering is is the least of your challenges! If you haven't already, I'd perhaps seek some pre-application advice from your LPA before you cut any holes 😉

I doubt it. As pointed out above, its a retaining wall so you'll always have moisture coming through from the back. It will be ok if you're happy to give it a scrape off and repaint on a regular basis though. I used to do the concrete blocks in a light-well every year, but that was only an hours job...