SimonD

I do think this is where confusion lies in that CAD files are not 'just' drawings and there's no way in a million years it's appropriate to distribute raw CAD files directly to clients, especially self-builders who are probably more likely to want to take it upon themselves to tinker with them. ? Then you've also got issues with file format, software and the associated costs of software licensing. When I got my first job in engineering it was in document management within one of the world's largest engineering consultancies and I learned quickly how poor documentation, revision, distribution and control can cause immense problems on even the smallest of projects. Providing additional information such as dimensions is a different matter and I do believe that properly detailed construction drawing should be dimensioned and made available to the client/builder as even at 1:10 it's easy to make critical mistakes. What I do think is problematic is when the various professionals can't share files to incorporate their piece of the work and therefore costs the client extra - we had that problem due to incompatibility with the architect/structural engineer and then the steel fabrication company used their own 3d modelling software - lots of circles of drawing creation/commenting and modification that could have been done more efficiently. At least our topograhical survey company provided the raw cad files when I asked them to, which was helpful for the initial designs.

Okay, so next stage done now with 2 coats of the basecoat. I've some mistakes in that I used the basecoat to fill joints and countersunk screw holes and I used the microcement mesh across all the corners. This meant that I used a bit too much basecoat and ran a bit short on the second coat! I also used the mirocement mesh on both internal and external corners, which was not great. Next time I'll use normal scrim tape on any corners. Having never done this before I may have applied the first coat slightly too thick too. Anyway, not too much of a disaster. All that has happened is the small wall area within the built in shelf will need to be tiled at the back and sides. Applying the basecoat is really quite similar to applying thin coat render on external wall insulation, but it's a lot thinner, with each layer being only approx. 1mm. I'm going to allow this cement to set overnight and tomorrow, first sand down this layer and then apply two more layers of a slightly different cement layer with what looks like a finer aggregate, but is still trowelled on like the basecoat. Overall, I'm quite happy with how it's turning out.

Around us it's usual for architects to charge between about 8-12k to planning. Eventually we found a very experienced architect who charged by the hour and got us through planning, including committee for around the 5k mark. He had the vision and imagination for great design, which was our priority until after planning when our next priority became good detailed design. This is where he let us down, while pretending he was good at it. If you're not going to offer the technical design/detailing, then one suggestion I have is to ensure you have someone in your black book you can pass the detailing work along to and who you can work with to ensure it all works in harmony with your design. But also make sure you communicate this clearly with your clients. One of the worst things we experienced was the RIBA stages of work, which were meaningless to us as clients, but also, having had plenty of experience in project and programme management, both my wife and I found it one of those useless project outline documents which delivers zero added value and following it probably ends up costing the client dearly. My other bugbear, which I'd add to @Iceverge's great list is to forget designing to win awards (unless specifically required by the client). We spoke to 6 architets in total and had them all submit tenders. One withdrew and all the others highlighted how they'd design us an award winning house - but this is obviously for the benefit of the architect rather than the client. And finally, listen -really listen - to the client.

Cemher

Day 2 of the ensuite now with step 2, 3 and 4 of microcement preparation. Step 2 was to sand down the basecoat used to fill the countersunk screws and joints, but I have to say this was a pain. Next time, I think I'll use the Knauf Aquapanel skim and/or filler as the microcement basecoat has aggregate in it so it's impossible to feather out the edges and it's really hard so destroys the sanding pads on the orbital sander. Took ages to only get a moderately good finish here. I'm hope the minor blemishes will be filled when coating. Step 3 just to apply the primer to the boards. Step 4 to add the reinforcing mesh which basically gets stuck to the primer (kind of - it just holds it in place for the microcement basecoat. Next step is to apply two coats of the basecoat, one uncoloured, the other coloured. Pictures attached of the stages completed today.

Oh no, that's awful! Sorry to hear that. I think I have slipped into self-builder overkill mode again.

I know some people will shudder and say don't do it in a bathroom, but I'm using birch plywood for my floor in this ensuite and the guest bathroom. It's finished with Rubio Monocoat and waiting to go down as soon as I've got the microcementing done. You can use microcement on the floor too.

I've just started with microcementing a shower now. Decided to use an ensuite for the experiment so if it goes wrong, nobody's really going to notice Here are photos of 1st stage - boarded with Aquapanel Outdoor as the base because I had 3 panels knocking around, but you can use plaster and skim, plasterboard, and even plywood as the base. At this point I've just filled the countersunk screw wholes, joints and gaps with the microcement base coat. Nothing out of the ordinary just recording the steps for anyone interested. Tomorrow will be sanding it all down and then hopefully applying basecoat and mesh.

I don't blame you. I'd have thrown all my toys out of the pram with them by now. It's simply not on.

I couldn't agree more. That's where the value comes from in terms of an architect. Ours certainly had his failings but he also made a lot of comments about what to specify and what not to specify that have born out to be absolutely spot on. Many of these comments were also based on his experience that once a customer actually sees the space, then they want and need the flexibility to change the designs and if you've detailed everything too tightly, it'll cost ya. What I do think needs to be detailed very well are the structural scheme and the building envelope.

I think this counts for quite a lot of building physics, much of which is still being investigated and not fully understood - just look at research into hygrothermal performance of building envelopes, for example. Basically, you just have to proceed on the basis of best current knowledge but be careful to separate the wheat from the chaff with good quality research and studies because as I've found, there's still a lot of myth and misunderstanding out there which is assumed to be evidence based truth. I was in your very situation 5 years ago where I thought I understood much more than I did, only to have found recently many of my assumptions were based on a lack of knowledge and understanding. I now tend to go straight to the research and horse's mouth so to speak as it often takes years for this info to filter out into the world, let alone be accepted and used. What specifically have you found out that's troubled you?

Don't count your chickens yet - you know the old maxim that if you don't ask you don't get ? If you have such considerable equity and your history is impeccable, discussions with the underwriter, even through what appear to be intransigent lenders can pay off sometimes. I know, because I've negotiated mortgage lending for myself from a lender who wouldn't normally touch self-build with a barge-pole. Are you also dismissing the idea of exploring an equitable charge? I suspect the problem you might always come back to is point 2 of your OP as any mortgage based lending will need to pass those tests - ridiculous as many of them might be! I quite like @Ferdinand suggestion of getting PP in the garden ? (I'll run away now too!)

I don't fully understand the legal ins and outs of it and it was a few years ago, but as a general overview it was first about approaching the restrictive lender to obtain a consensual agreement on the basis that there was significant equity in the property and also a bit of leaning on the argument that the restrictive clause may be unfair and unenforceable in any case. However, this situation may very well have changed due to current accepted practise and case law, which might be why equitable charges have grown in use. Sorry I can't be more helpful on this point.

Have you taken legal advice on this? I know someone who was able to put a 2nd charge on a property regardless of the first charge having a clause in the agreement not to allow this. I think there is also now something called an equitable charge which doesn't provide the 2nd charge with the ability to force a sale of the property.

Thankfully Protek do cover caravan contents as part of their self-build policy. The additional premium is actually not too much money in relation to the whole policy cost. As for seperate garage contents, I've also found it a difficult process. I used to have it included within a normal house building and contents policy through a more specialist broker as many standard policies don't cover separate garage contents particularly well. However, that doesn't cover us any more due to the house not existing as it did so policy lapsed.

Our architect did everything with paper and pencil, but these were young'uns brought up on newfangled tech called CAD.

It's good you found some people to help you. I ended up having to learn all about it myself and modify the designs myself to take this kind of thing into consideration. I've come across so many examples now of registered architects not being up to speed on technical detailing required beyong building regs for energy efficiency, which is one area where I remain highly critical of my architect and several others I've met. One architect with whom I discussed efficient wall buildup systems said to me that the industry moved so quickly with these things, they simply don't have the available time to keep up with it - shocking.

That's definitely the common wisdom of this and a rule I used to follow. However, surprising as it might seem, I've broken almost all of these rules with our current temporary site electrics. Different ring mains, 2 breakers and many, sometimes multiple extension leads. Surprisingly my TP-link mains extenders work amazingly across my whole site, and seamlessly too. I have no idea how it's all worked so well. The only rule I haven't been able to break is the surge protector.

I was in a similar situation just before the first COVID lockdown. I boarded and covered the roof with temporary membrane and then wrapped the timber frame in tarpaulins as I had months to wait for some materials. However my frame got very wet before I got a roof cover on and that's just expected. The effort you go to will depend on the work schedule and the tf wall buildup - i.e. is it a standard wall with sheathing on the outside or reversed with sheathing on the inside.

That's not a paint, it's a lubricant. I'd hazard a guess it's used on the calipers and maybe between the disk and hub on disk installation (to prevent the disk from rusting to the hub).

Nope, you definitely don't want paint anywhere near your brake disks ? Brake caliper paint only goes to 300-500 C. I don't quite understand why you'd want to paint internal parts of a stove but you can get lots of types of stove paint. Not sure how well they work, mind you. Have you measured the actual temperature?

Yes, pretty much, but there are also other benefits. Having an architect talk to suppliers and manufacturers means you get an answer. E.g we have an unusual 1st floor design with 2 sections of curved roof. We could get quotations to decide on the structure - e.g. steel frame/glulam frame/hybrid steel frame plus glulam - via architect whereas these companies simply wouldn't talk to us as self-builders. This may be the same with an AT, I don't know but there does seem to be a difference with companies when dealing with an architecture practice.

I think there is some confusion here about what glues are what. The D4 category is simply a durability category for interior areas exposed to frequent wetting, or external use. What you need is a polyurethane glue that expands within the joints of the boards as well as at the joist board connection. The D4 everbuild glue linked to doesn't do that. @nod suggested the Caberfix. You can also use the Soudal 30min or 5min PU wood glue, which also gently expands. example PU wood glues: https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/soudal-trade-30min-d4-pu-wood-adhesive-290ml-clear-737362?vat=1&shoppingxp=true&msclkid=591dab1002551015fd7acaade429e924&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping > Top Products&utm_term=4580909046907901&utm_content=Top Products https://www.toolstation.com/30-minute-polyurethane-wood-glue/p52489

We initially employed an Architectural Technologist who presented a number of design suggestions, none of them worked for us as they were very unimaginative. None of the ideas would provide us with the functional family space that also gave us a design that inspired us as a place we wanted to be in and spend the money developing. Because we were starting off with a bungalow, all the AT did was set in his mind we needed a loft extension. We live in an area where the planners are very particular because of its world heritage status and Georgian architecture and this AT was just too worried about the planners. We sacked the AT after a very frustrating 6 months of messing around with ideas only to meet with an architect who within a week sent a scanned sketch of his proposed design that would transform the house in exactly the way we wanted, giving us a full two storey house with loads of space. Then we discussed the planners and he listed all the design elements he would add to the planning application that would distract the planners enough to ask for changes to the application that wouldn't impact our designs very much, if at all. And because he understood the nature of the local architecture, he was able to talk with the planners to explain how our design incorporated influences from the historical nature of the city in such a way as to complement existing architecture. Our application did go to planning committee but he presented at that committee and the application flew through. From a design perspective, our architect got it spot on and he suggested ways in which we could use the landscape to enhance the house. We are on a fairly steep slope and he designed the house upside down so that we have a bridge going from the living area straight to the level of back garden, for example. The design also fully takes advantage of the views we have over the valley, which the AT never even considered. So the architect considered the context of the design. One very interesting thing I noticed recently was that the asymmetrical design of the house means that the windows follow the shape of the landscapoe they're looking out on - which makes the space much better to be in. Design wise, I wouldn't hesitate to use an architect again. From a technical detailing perspective, however, he was incredibly frustrating, but if you use an architectural practice, you should be able to get someone onto the detailing.

It must be difficult being a contractor in these situations as you're at the front end. What helps even less is that official figures seem to be contradictory. ONS Construction Output figures suggest annual price inflation up to September of just 5.5% for all construction work, 7.8% if you just look at new build. Then there are figures that show forecast contractor tender and price inflation of just 2.7% for the next year! Somebody clearly hasn't left their office in a while. Clearly something is going to come out in the wash as some point soon, probably about 3 months before the government finds out about it.