Oz07

I think a mid sized merchant in house make them. Sure it said avon timber. They're redwood too (Like harlows timber ones) and preprimed

I though condensation in the supply side ducts was unlikely? I believe op is referring to the intake/exhaust pipes

I think @epsilonGreedy will actually ask every question to do with fitting this roof as he does it effectively putting me out of a job...Should of been a plasterer...

Wrong thread @joe90 that was his other one about lateral restraint straps

Been using good ones on site I'm on atm they are trenched but for a shouldered half lap so cutting the ears of flush and lining still keeps it's integrity

This was mine. Intake was a bit long but needed 2m separation and wanted them on sane elevation.

I never got that advice with my bpc tile vent installation. I just got told continuous fall on duct back to unit. Surely if the unit has a condensate drain it will do the job there? My ducts are wrapped in the foil insulation, foil taped at joins of insulation and covered with loft insulation until they reach the tile vent.. @Declan52 how did the condensation make it's way into supply side ducting?

https://www.howdens.com/joinery/door-fittings/door-linings/howdens-softwood-untrenched-door-lining-obj-sku-family-dfr2015

Trenched for 926 and I would assume 826 on reverse side. Otherwise you would allow chippie extra .5hr to trench. Realistically 10 mins. They also do in fd30 I think op will be struggling at 200 per set depending on finish on doors. Magnet doing the oak belieze atm for 50 quid unfinished in imperial. If you allow 100 for door and lining, 20 for ironmongery that's leaves you with 80 for labour to fit, buy stain/oil then apply

Howdens or magnet don't sell metric linings? I can't believe that sure I've bought them before.

Don't bother strapping till you've dobe the roof. Your bound to put the straps in the way otherwise

Lightweight (not aircrete) blocks you will fire screws straight in without plugs. Or nail as has been said.

Are you still blogging @Red Kite?

Taking this to next level plumber on the job I'm currently on ditches top seal and replaces bottom one for a pte? Plastic one. Also silicone both sides. Guy I normal use ditches top one and uses silicone both sides

im sure you wouldn't be scraping your knuckles on 915! I only mean to swap the current 826 for 838, thats actually an improvement in width

Sorry see @ProDave has that covered

You'd then be looking to get 838x1982 in your smaller openings if possible

Metric sizes are sometimes more expensive or harder to come by than imperial. Would it be possible to swap your doors and linings for 915x1982 then might be more avaiabliltiy

i only look at the one above

I think the boiler does that itself (sets flow temp) but this just limits the maximum temp it will heat to

That's what you said to do on mine if i get any air lock on the rad manifold system. I had the engineer turn the max heating temp down a bit on the boiler in the hope it stops any gases

Forky on site I'm on atm selling the red. Ten quid for a 25l drum. Got some for my mates boat

also speed, screws are slowwwww

I can't wait to see a decent temp difference between incoming and exhaust air. Not had it running for a winter yet most I've seen is 6deg up to now

It used to be a running theme on this forum people said if you had access to gas then use it. Regardless of how you build if you have mains gas is it not always cheaper? It's subsidised isn't it?