Alan Ambrose

Couple of related questions here: https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/60b9db75-4a06-ef11-a81c-0022481abb62#8ee1e627-5a14-ef11-9f89-6045bdfcb55b https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/76dc768e-31f1-ee11-a81c-0022481b35e3#47b447c2-24f8-ee11-a1fe-6045bd1255b5

I expect so - you'll find similar discussions here re zero VAT & self builds. The summary seems to be: yes that's right, but it's not always easy to convince the contractor (and they have to finance the VAT part). You can claim back at the end of your project though - in which case you have to finance it. Some on here say that the right VAT specialist can save as much as they bill you. As you can imagine, yours is not a common situation, so you might need to consult a specialist to get a (somewhat) conclusive answer. There's also an HMRC forum where you can ask questions and get slow replies - phrase as a real life actual situation, rather that a hypothetical - otherwise they won't answer it. See here: https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat

I didn't know that you could heat weld epdm, very interesting. I think the choice boils down to aesthetics, which only you can judge as we don't know the location, sun direction, shading etc. I'm sure the engineering can be made to work, but do you have an SE you can buy a few hours of work from to double check as the rooflight(s) will be heavyish? Will you use the roof as a terrace too?

>>> unless I put the potty on the roof Is that what they call an upside-down house? Good view?

>>> But what is sensible? You’re the best judge of that, but some mix of - what skills do you have? what cost savings can you make? what do you like doing? what things are critical to the function and aesthetics of your well-built house and what not (e.g. air tightness is, garden planting maybe not)? what’s the most risky aspects of your build? - you might want experienced trades on those. You can probably save most money easily by careful buying - trades won’t care if they’re simply re-charging you. You can probably control quality and avoid mishaps best by selecting & briefing trades carefully, understanding the detailed work, and being around to keep an eye on progress.

The article on biodiversity is interesting, especially considering the April requirement for ‘Net Gain’. Exactly how LPAs are going to measure that is the question. A whole new set of buzzwords coming up…

I replaced some DGUs recently. They came with big stickers with the spec on and a big ‘this side out’ notice. Suggest a proper supplier like Internorm would probably do something similar.

If I remember rightly, it's what Mark Jacobson at Stanford University predicted i.e. a glut of cheap solar power. Suggests a real push for storage as the input energy cost will be very low at times. Also, as @joe90 said - it might make for two cheap daily periods, overnight when everyone, including most industry is asleep, and in the middle of the sunny day. But will it make the economics worse for all generation capacity but better overall for the consumer?

Yes, they get their strength from the fill. Use sharp stone rather than rounded shingle for max strength.

See: https://markets.businessinsider.com/news/commodities/solar-panel-supply-german-electricity-prices-negative-renewable-demand-green-2024-5

>>> This must be hard to police Also, pretty dumb. The UK is hardly likely to end up like the Southern US, where A/C is a big load. And, when the need is greatest - those unusual sunny & hot days, PV generation will be at max and there will be power looking for places to be used up. Sure think about reducing summer solar gain. But you'll likely reduce solar gain the rest of the year too, and therefore increase energy use overall. Guess what, we have more heating days than potential cooling days in the UK. Even in Texas heat and a/c energy uses are fairly balanced: https://www.eia.gov/consumption/residential/reports/2009/state_briefs/pdf/TX.pdf I would love to know who invents these dumb 'rules'.

>>> you'll make more money if you can get permission for something smaller rather than larger err, or vv, I'm sure you know what I mean

For about 6 quid, you can get copies online of the official registration docs for the property from the land registry. That's the 'official' position and should list type of joint arrangement / share proportions if there are any. Make sure you use the .gov site, not some fraudster. You will need some kind of valuation for probate. I just used some online sources (Zoopla etc) but for not much money you can get an estate agent's valuation 'for probate'. Maybe they'll throw this in for free if they think they'll get a listing.

The idea is that you would rather not have the base (or any other bit) sitting in water for any length of time as it'll rot. Another option to raise it up, if your slab is level, is gravel grid. If you are careful with gutters, down pipe exits, drip edge, think about water splash from rain hitting the floor etc, it'll last a long time. I might be inclined to use epdm for the roof as it'll last longer. I also might beef up the floor a bit as it's that that'll fail first.

That's curious - it's usually a gotcha form - forget and you get penalised. This is from your local CIL guys at your LPA? I might send one to them anyway for safety.

>>> are we legally allowed to put it on the market for sale, or do we need to wait for probate to come through? Yes, you can put it on the market and any estate agent will be used to this situation. I think you can exchange, but you can't complete (memory fails me) - but check with your conveyancing solicitor.

Ubakus.de

Only for v heavy duty or v long life.

Maybe you can find some commercial use for that hard won knowledge

Ah I think "Grid weight empty: 5.2 kg per sqm" for NG040. Nice that you can buy them in small quantities though - you can't with all. So, I'm thinking similar-ish spec to the Bodpave 40? I have not looked at every product, so there might be others out there too. I'm looking at stuff that will potentially take a concrete truck during my build, so I may be targeting higher loads than you.

p.s. some up-to-date stats (no I don't have any connection, and they're more accessible than the .gov stats): https://appealfinder.co.uk/Planning-appeal-success-rates-and-timescales.n48.html https://appealfinder.co.uk/Your-LPA's-performance-on-planning-appeals.n71.html https://appealfinder.co.uk/Local-planning-authority-success-rates.p19.html

Also, my little analysis of a bunch of appeals suggested they were as arbitrary as standard planning decisions: See also this re stats:

I have an old Fugenboy set, but I find the smallest profile is a bit big. Maybe there's better versions / designs anyway these days? Also, I see there are some part-used tube sealer things around - are they any good? Lastly, my cheap old gun hurts my fingers after a while - probably something to do with the sharp edges. Can anyone recommend a good one?

>>> We're aesthetically wedded to steel windows There are a few aluminium equivalents that look nearly the same. I think that some of the newer steel windows have thermal breaks like aluminium / aluclad ones. You should be able to get the whole-window u-values if you push for them, but the guys selling dodgy frames (heat insulation wise) are often cagey with their numbers, so that's a warning sign. Don't be fobbed off with glazing component only as compared with whole window u-values. When you do your heat calcs you may change your mind re steel windows. We have a flat with Crittall steel windows and below average wall insulation. It's a nice flat but we'll sell it in time mostly due to the dodgy heat performance.

I think this is still on topic: when buying these things, how do you ensure the replacement cartridges are still around in 5-10 years' time?