Alan Ambrose

Maybe see if you can locate a local drainage expert (at your expense ) to propose a solution that works better for you? Talk to their building control? Is the builder the principal or is there an owner somewhere? A professional would design it all up front and run it by you beforehand, maybe suggest some options to choose from, and try to minimise any impact on you. The hardball action is an injunction to prevent access why you negotiate. It’s always better to try to resolve amicably first but some builders will just dig first and make lame excuses after. Those ones require a shot across the bows before you get them to negotiate. How much do you care though? Enough to spend money?

I just saw that Hilti has a wacky ‘exoskeleton’ for that task - about a £1K: https://www.hilti.com/c/CLS_EXOSKELETON_HUMAN_AUGMENTATION/CLS_UPPERBODY_EXOSKELETON/CLS_SUB_UPPERBODY_EXOSKELETON/r14012433

I think he is taking the mickey a bit and that you have considerable negotiating room here to vary the route. Is there not an option to run a straight pipe through, which wouldn’t need a chamber? Depends on the exact wording of the clause and then how much effort you want to put in what result you’ll get. Why is he digging up your patio? Suggest start by asking him for other options and proposing your own route. Sounds like he’s probably going for the cheapest option regardless of the impact on you.

The screws are cheap and DIYable for decking, sheds etc. e.g. https://www.groundscrewcentre.co.uk p.s. I bought a bunch of green oak from these guys during covid: https://www.uk-timber.co.uk/58-structural-green-oak-beams Oak is more expensive but much longer lasting than treated softwood. Use A4 stainless fixings.

>>> you can sit you morning coffee and croissant on 😀

I’ll throw in some other options - green oak beam on ground screws?

I think this high quote and then negotiate is fairly typical - it allows them to make maximum cash from people in a rush etc.

Welcome.

Well hope it goes well. Let us know 😀

Probably easiest way is push the sellers to sort out the warranty - their architect or SE is the easiest port of call. Point out that cash buyers will want a warranty also, if they’ve got any sense, so they can sell on. That was the position with the barn conversion above.

Oh dear, that’s very tough considering you have not even moved in yet. I think I would: - track down the roofers - addresses, vehicle reg, trading names etc. It’s fantastic that you have pictures of them and their work. - pay for a professional evaluation and costing to bring the work up to standard. - write a calm but firm letter to both your neighbour and the roofers and enclose the report and costing. Ask for this amount of cash to have the problems rectified. Get a solicitor to do this if you’re not sure. - get your part of the roof fixed. - in parallel, if the funds are not forthcoming, sue in the county court for the cost of the work and the report - probably both parties joined in one case.

I’ve experience of a couple of these. First, 30 years ago, developer went bust after finishing - it was a property recession. Mortgage broker found me a mortgage supplier who didn’t require a warranty - it wasn’t easy. Second was a barn conversion, 6 years ago - builder didn’t want to bother with the expense of getting one. After a bit of harumphing he got the SE to issue a cert. That worked. In the meantime I also found a broker who would have supplied a warranty (for a price) but didn’t need to use. So you can make it work, you just need to push a bit.

Suggest you will need a biggish sds drill. First put a long pilot drill through all and a similar diameter to the pilot on your core drill. Then put a carbide or diamond core drill through, clearing out the hole regularly. Go a bit gentle to avoid breaking up the bricks - assuming these are standard bricks. Drill from both sides if you prefer.

You’re just being mischievous now. Be interesting to know what kind of movement - straight up and down or some side to side sway?

>>> aren't batteries in the loft frowned upon too? Yeah, I think actually part p electricians are not supposed to install them there now.

The slashing of pollution from shipping in 2020 led to a big “termination shock” that is estimated have pushed the rate of global heating to double the long-term average, according to research... https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/may/30/termination-shock-cut-in-ship-pollution-sparked-global-heating-spurt

Yeah, pretty much any old oak frame building you see today will be C16-18th i.e. 200-400 years old. No modern glues, fixings, vapour barriers etc. I’m sure our modern self-builds will last as long, no?

I’ve mentioned this before, but the above clever strategies don’t work, I understand, where you have a significant CIL charge. I haven’t looked at the CIL law in detail yet to find the reason why, but I’m pretty sure. I have a couple of appeals in progress. They are slow, about 9 months median, if I remember rightly, but with a wide variation. Also, I think they can be as random and opinionated, and as badly justified, as the standard planning process. You can download some example determinations either from the appeals portal or from your LPA’s portal to get an idea. I’ve a thread here on BH discussing that. My LPA also flouts the Procedural Guide for appeals, and the inspector doesn’t seem to care a jot. Summary is, suggest exhausting all your standard planning options before doing the appeal thing.

Just jack up the throne until everything runs downhill?

Yeah, annoying though that there’s an official system that is complete b…..x.

>>> just need a plot! One technique - is to follow the stuff going through planning in the areas you're interested in, and contact the owner to see whether (a) if passed, it's going to be up for sale, or (b) if failed, whether you can buy it cheap and re-apply with an amended plan.

Depends what you have in your shed I guess. I have a bunch of heavy machine tools in mine.

>>> You can claim back at the end of your project though The context is this - in the case of 'self-build zero rate' ... if you nevertheless get charged 20% VAT on something that's otherwise eligible - say a bolshy but key supplier or VAT paid on an import ... then you can claim that back at the end. I imagine this also applies to your case, but it's specialised enough that you would need to ask/confirm with HMRC.

I'm a fan of epdm too. In another recent thread, it was pointed out that it (at least some of it) can be hot welded. Robin Clevett has a video on a system - you might be able to pick up a few tips. Although it's branded 'Alwitra', I understand that it's epdm.

>>> minimum 6mm sheets Steel is properly heavy - about 3x the density of aluminium. You would need quite a a serious structure to support a 6mm steel skin - each m^2 on 6mm would weight about 50Kg. Or make the corten steel itself structural, weld and support by say a steel frame. I'm not sure why the OP decided aluminium was not DIY friendly. You can get custom cut and custom powder coated panels made fairly easily. Aluminium is soft, so you need to be careful fixing to avoid dents and creases, but I would think aluminium shingles would be v DIY friendly.