Alan Ambrose

I’ll throw in some other options - green oak beam on ground screws?

I think this high quote and then negotiate is fairly typical - it allows them to make maximum cash from people in a rush etc.

Welcome.

Well hope it goes well. Let us know 😀

Probably easiest way is push the sellers to sort out the warranty - their architect or SE is the easiest port of call. Point out that cash buyers will want a warranty also, if they’ve got any sense, so they can sell on. That was the position with the barn conversion above.

Oh dear, that’s very tough considering you have not even moved in yet. I think I would: - track down the roofers - addresses, vehicle reg, trading names etc. It’s fantastic that you have pictures of them and their work. - pay for a professional evaluation and costing to bring the work up to standard. - write a calm but firm letter to both your neighbour and the roofers and enclose the report and costing. Ask for this amount of cash to have the problems rectified. Get a solicitor to do this if you’re not sure. - get your part of the roof fixed. - in parallel, if the funds are not forthcoming, sue in the county court for the cost of the work and the report - probably both parties joined in one case.

I’ve experience of a couple of these. First, 30 years ago, developer went bust after finishing - it was a property recession. Mortgage broker found me a mortgage supplier who didn’t require a warranty - it wasn’t easy. Second was a barn conversion, 6 years ago - builder didn’t want to bother with the expense of getting one. After a bit of harumphing he got the SE to issue a cert. That worked. In the meantime I also found a broker who would have supplied a warranty (for a price) but didn’t need to use. So you can make it work, you just need to push a bit.

Suggest you will need a biggish sds drill. First put a long pilot drill through all and a similar diameter to the pilot on your core drill. Then put a carbide or diamond core drill through, clearing out the hole regularly. Go a bit gentle to avoid breaking up the bricks - assuming these are standard bricks. Drill from both sides if you prefer.

You’re just being mischievous now. Be interesting to know what kind of movement - straight up and down or some side to side sway?

>>> aren't batteries in the loft frowned upon too? Yeah, I think actually part p electricians are not supposed to install them there now.

The slashing of pollution from shipping in 2020 led to a big “termination shock” that is estimated have pushed the rate of global heating to double the long-term average, according to research... https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/may/30/termination-shock-cut-in-ship-pollution-sparked-global-heating-spurt

Yeah, pretty much any old oak frame building you see today will be C16-18th i.e. 200-400 years old. No modern glues, fixings, vapour barriers etc. I’m sure our modern self-builds will last as long, no?

I’ve mentioned this before, but the above clever strategies don’t work, I understand, where you have a significant CIL charge. I haven’t looked at the CIL law in detail yet to find the reason why, but I’m pretty sure. I have a couple of appeals in progress. They are slow, about 9 months median, if I remember rightly, but with a wide variation. Also, I think they can be as random and opinionated, and as badly justified, as the standard planning process. You can download some example determinations either from the appeals portal or from your LPA’s portal to get an idea. I’ve a thread here on BH discussing that. My LPA also flouts the Procedural Guide for appeals, and the inspector doesn’t seem to care a jot. Summary is, suggest exhausting all your standard planning options before doing the appeal thing.

Just jack up the throne until everything runs downhill?

Yeah, annoying though that there’s an official system that is complete b…..x.

>>> just need a plot! One technique - is to follow the stuff going through planning in the areas you're interested in, and contact the owner to see whether (a) if passed, it's going to be up for sale, or (b) if failed, whether you can buy it cheap and re-apply with an amended plan.

Depends what you have in your shed I guess. I have a bunch of heavy machine tools in mine.

>>> You can claim back at the end of your project though The context is this - in the case of 'self-build zero rate' ... if you nevertheless get charged 20% VAT on something that's otherwise eligible - say a bolshy but key supplier or VAT paid on an import ... then you can claim that back at the end. I imagine this also applies to your case, but it's specialised enough that you would need to ask/confirm with HMRC.

I'm a fan of epdm too. In another recent thread, it was pointed out that it (at least some of it) can be hot welded. Robin Clevett has a video on a system - you might be able to pick up a few tips. Although it's branded 'Alwitra', I understand that it's epdm.

>>> minimum 6mm sheets Steel is properly heavy - about 3x the density of aluminium. You would need quite a a serious structure to support a 6mm steel skin - each m^2 on 6mm would weight about 50Kg. Or make the corten steel itself structural, weld and support by say a steel frame. I'm not sure why the OP decided aluminium was not DIY friendly. You can get custom cut and custom powder coated panels made fairly easily. Aluminium is soft, so you need to be careful fixing to avoid dents and creases, but I would think aluminium shingles would be v DIY friendly.

If not an SE, you can test before putting the window in by, say, having 4 or 5 people add their combined weight around where the window will bear. The roof load is, say, 150Kg + occasional maintenance load, say 100Kg. For a safety factor of, say, 2, you can apply a test load of double that i.e. 500Kg, - i.e. however many people that is, in your case.

If you asked me to guess, I would think that the landlord is in control of access roads. Would an enquiry to the landlord help?

Thanks for letting us know about this gotcha. What’s the service cost and are there any contract terms to avoid you being held hostage for the duration?

I think I would send your LPA a very polite but formal letter describing the exact situation with names, dates, appended docs etc. Ask them whether they are planning on issuing an official enforcement notice or are they just making a request. Tell them that stopping your contractor will involve you in significant cost (get your contractor to write a letter with a cost estimate for the delay) and that you will look to the LPA for damages and re-reimbursement of costs for any unnecessary delays they cause. Suggest that your neighbour (name him) doesn't understand the rules correctly. Copy to the head of planning if you're feeling bolshy. Likewise, send a copy to your neighbour - there's nothing like a bit of transparency to shake people up. I expect you will receive official withdrawal and go-ahead within a day, maybe two.

Couple of related questions here: https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/60b9db75-4a06-ef11-a81c-0022481abb62#8ee1e627-5a14-ef11-9f89-6045bdfcb55b https://community.hmrc.gov.uk/customerforums/vat/76dc768e-31f1-ee11-a81c-0022481b35e3#47b447c2-24f8-ee11-a1fe-6045bd1255b5