craig

You’re are correct, watching the game and typing not a good thing.

DPM is for rising dampness and not for water proofing, As the window has an aluminium frame, DPM is not necessary as dampness cannot rise into aluminium. Simpler just to move on.

For anyone that needs it, here is a quick excel calculator you can use to calculate glass weights for double / triple. Most I would assume won't know this and therefor use your unit size, it will give you the approx. overall unit weight if you use it that way (give or take a couple of KG). Some example data entered and I have purposely left out laminated as the difference is negligible imho. glass weight calculator.xlsx

Tell him you hope he has good running shoes.

Usually a DPC would already exist on properties, although older ones would need to be checked. Technically, not really required for Aluminium windows but you could call it good practice to install with DPC if it doesn't exist.

Standard practice, certain size require the sliders to be built on site and fixed sections glazed, others built but not glazed. It’s generally a decision left to the suppliers and installers but likely that kit is being supplied with Nordan here. Not an issue tbh and there shouldn’t be a cost to kit unless is has been spec’d minimally and not designed with a greater than weight requirement. The actual difference in weight won’t be that much. Per m2 and per mm thickness glass will be 2.5Kg x 1, 2 or 3 sheets of glass (i.e single, double or triple). 4mm per m2 10Kg 6mm per m2 15Kg 8mm per m2 20Kg

It’s a glazing bead just poorly measured. More of a visual inconvenience than anything else. If need be, fill with white silicone and you’ll take the visual annoyance away (if they won’t fix). Glass, it’s a case of looking through the glass not at the glass. Is it visible from 3 metres away? If yes, ask for it to be replaced. If no, then ask but the answer is likely to be no.

Where are you based? What's your budget like? With you looking at Internorm and Solarlux, it's a decent budget that you'll have allowed. What are your timescales? I'm presuming that you're willing to use either Aluminium, timber alu or a mixture of both?

A quick snapshot of Cero III configuration options for 4 sections.

Your biggest issue is weight, second is sight lines, 3rd system. Cero’s are 34mm and I would expect you’d be wanting to follow that through. Weight, flex in beam and tolerances are the main issue. Your SE will have engineered things based on weights. However, the flex in beam (standard without weight and weight) needs to be understood. You’ll end up with doors that don’t slide if not taken into account. The Cero’s have many configuration options, so you should be able to keep the design as shown for sliding units. The challenge then becomes how to deal with the 2nd and 3rd rows. These are likely to be coupled due to size and you then have the issue with wind load on couplings and sight lines. Not that fussed on the wind load, that’ll take care of itself. However. It screams curtain walling in all honesty. And or further design and spandrel panels between floors. Which the steel can be designed to take the weights of the units above and you sit everything in front of the steels. Example below.

Give Matt a shout @ http://www.ecoglaze.ie

Yes, 2 😉

Up to the contractor to put right, happens far to often and a bit of a nightmare to remove. Cheaper for them to replace the glass and put it down to experience.

@Chanmenie Part M has been mandatory for some time but that was only the main entry door. Not all doors had to comply with part M. I have to read up to be 100% as I haven’t given it my full attention, as we make all doors accessible and have done for a decade+. I think that from June 2022 it applies to all.

New regs didn’t come into force until June 2022 from memory, this will have been approved pre June 2022 and likely won’t have been spec’d as Part M requirement. Irrespective, it’s installed wrong and the wrong threshold for the job but pretty standard as well.

It's installed wrong. Part M covers one main door for disabled access, the specs may indicate this to be done everywhere but the maximum stepover is 15mm and a straight-up edge is to be avoided. However, it looks like a complete failure to take this measurement from the FFL and they have taken this from the screed level. From screed, you would normally have 15mm/20mm floor covering, so at least 20mm of that frame on the bottom should be visible, which would supply approx. 5mm from the underside of the door sash, to the FFL.

You'll be fine with the screed up against the door, it's not going to cause a massive issue - not ideal but it should be OK and unlikely to cause a corrosion issue.

Yes snd no, we scrape the cured silicone off and then we scrub with soapy water generally to remove any residue.

We use https://www.teknos.com/en-GB/industrial-coatings/industries/building-exteriors/windows-and-doors/teknos-clean-kit/ but a bit of elbow grease and a gentle scrub and washing up liquid will also do the job, it will work on the glass as well but first we will take a good quality Stanley blade and carefully scrape of the silicone. Trust me, it happens every day, it's easier to clean it off once it's cured.

Concrete screw fixings generally.

Just do what you are doing but with a concrete screw that will bite into the brick/block - you won't need to use the type you are showing, just use https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h Alternatively, take the window out and apply brackets. You'll get several different types (i.e. ones that will twist into grooves on the frame and others you screw) BUT both need a screw fixed to the frame. Then fix every 150mm from the corners, you can put one in the middle vertically if you feel that it would benefit you. Then jobs a good one.

It might be a bit of a faff, but chop off 40/50mm of the render and move the window forward by that distance. You should be sitting directly on the stone cill and the cill will deal with the water runoff. Put a couple of packers (5mm or so) underneath to level it out, a bead of mastic (your window is face drained), pack the side and top and you may even get a screw fixing through the frame without having to strap it back to the inner block.

Easier question, who did you buy the door from? Do you know what ptofile system was used?

Really depends on the system, bottom drained or face drain. Usually if face drained, you’ll have 2 slots with (probably lost now) drainage caps at the bottom of the door on front or if bottom drained 2 slots at the bottom (underneath). Panels are essentially just glass replacements, they should be able to be removed, just like glass. Looking at your door picture, you have beads holding the panel in place. I haven’t see the external but presume similar without beads. Once you take off beads internally, you’ll probably see packers for the panel and possibly other type clips/screws holding panel in place. Different systems, have different ways of doing things.

If you're getting water in here, then the seal on the external side has failed. You'd need to replace that, you shouldn't need to drill drainage holes. Just replace the seal for the panel and all should be good.