Bonner

Nail gun is much faster for large repetitive jobs but expensive and not much gain for smaller jobs. Strength depends as much on the joint as the fixing but screws generally equal or better than nails.

👍 You can have a rest half way up

‘Other suppliers are available’ (Pears and TK for examples) all use similar tools. Saves doing the Math and gives you lots of detail including 2D & 3D images. I ended up with 39 degree pitch which was more than I wanted having failed to identify the constraints at design stage. Having said that, it feels ‘right’ now it’s finished.

Only appliances you can reclaim VAT are extractors or hob with built in extractor. Don’t believe suppliers can zero rate any part of a kitchen unless they are fitting it, ie. you should pay the VAT and reclaim it at the end.

Plus the cost of the wall to stick them on?

We only had a porta-loo for welfare, no mains water needed for ground works. If they need water for washing down, ask them to bring a bowser, they will be used to working on unserviced sites. Alternatively have you got friendly neighbour with a hose pipe?

Correct in that case but I couldn’t see OSB on the drawing. You don’t need to lift the tiles with the fascia but it does need to be fixed at the right height to avoid a large gap and fix the guttering in the right place.

Yes eaves tray goes on first, before roof membrane. Not sure what you mean missing counter battens? The first tile batten is shown on the drawing. No need for the battens behind the fascia, it can be fixed directly to the rafter ends although you need to ensure the the last row of tiles sit correctly, at the same angle as others or kick up slightly.

I think it is perfect under the window, not too close to the hob (ideal in fact). Personally, I would not want the sink under wall cupboards.

Assuming the hob is on a peninsular, it doesn’t look like there is room behind it? In any case, you wouldn’t want to walk round the other side to use the sink, it is in the best place under the window. Btw I would put the dishwasher closer to the sink, near the corner.

Fully moved in 18 months before completion certificate issued, used it as a store for a year before that. We registered for council tax from moving in, not for storing stuff.

Have you tried modelling your build up using Ubakus? Tried to paste a link but can’t.

I am not aware of any particular standard, as long as rainwater does not run towards the house or pool on the slabs, 1:80 should be fine

As you have worked out, second one is probably best. Priority is to ensure the adjacent paving falls (slightly) away from the house. Then it is a matter of working with the lay of the land as best you can. Trying to make the top patio fall away from the house may need a lot more excavation and a step/retaining wall

From what you described nobody is going to say it’s fine, so you might as well go straight to a builder. Hopefully one who can come up with a pragmatic solution.

Don’t know, I just use a brush. I suppose it’s a balance between cost and resilience

Dry mix of sand and cement brushed in is the easiest and cheapest way. I usually give the joints a good soaking and let the surface dry off, then brush in and tamp down with a suitable size piece of timber. Fine mist spray to finish.

Very similar to my last house, everything looks like it’s about crumble (one of the reasons I decide to build new). Nevertheless it didn’t fall down or even show any signs of movement in 13 years I lived there. Unless you want to knock it down, all you can do is stabilise the walls as best you can, mainly by filling/pointing the gaps. The door lintel itself looks solid however the wooden/clad beam running from the corner looks like it needs propping while you stabilise the supporting wall underneath.

I got a lot more sense from the field engineer than talking to the planning office! Hopefully they will come up with a pragmatic solution.

Galvanised one from Wickes, has been surprisingly tough for the price. Don’t go overboard, expect it to be destroyed or nicked!

+1 I just taped up the inlet and outlet terminals outside

You will need to install an in-line pre-filter if you want to improve things, try activated carbon media to absorb fume which brings the smell inside.

Is it Nolte?

It might work only if the flow goes in at the top but I would go for a smaller radiator connected at opposite ends, which most likely to work effectively.

Is the paint actually flaking off? If not and it is firmly adhered to the caulk, it is just shrinkage which can’t be avoided. All you can do is put another coat of paint on the areas but expect there may be further (but less) cracks as the caulk flex’s and timber moves.