Alexphd1

I just hope the decisions are more made at Westminster than hollyrood...

never thought i would come on here and read about fishing rights and quotas. My family invested heavily fishing in atlantic (st kilda up to the west side of orkney)in the early 90's, we lost it over night in a political decision TBH I dont know if it was Westminster or Brussels . Funnily enough i was in that area two weeks ago and guess what we came across a lot of mainland Europe registered boats and NO uk boats. If we go out a bit further out just past Rockall there is a very large chinese fleet there just now fishing for tuna in international water (yes we catch small amounts of tuna in the north sea, around Shetland and all the way south to ireland...... but we are not allowed to land them) I agree with you joe90 about discards but unfortunately we do need some protection for conservation of stocks for future generations.

First thing to check is photo cell. Just pull it out. If dirty ie smoke just give it a quick wipe and stick back in.

https://www.greenwayenergyltd.co.uk/product-page/samsung-09kw-monoblock That's the best price (inc vat) I have seen in a while.

@Triassic what size of ashp you looking for?

Do you mean the the garage door for the car, we have a lot of air vents in there so sealing the big door is s bit pointless plus there is a log gasification boiler in there (need ventilation for combustion).

Was hoping for a bit more than that as that's what we have on existing house and it's not great (hadn't considered the air tight side) Would a self closing hinge with a strong closing pull help create a better seal?

What options have i got for sealing up a internal (fire) door between the garage and house to cut draught.

Bump

Bump, never did get around to buying the rutland and its sold out now. In same situations again more skis to mount quiver killer inserts. So any good spots for a pillar drill?

Cant help on your question but what tanking did you use?

@Temp I have seen that style of door cut down very successfully before but that doesn't fit in with the overall look unfortunately. Good link with the kitchendooroutlet bang on what I am questioning to make myself.

Scratching my head a bit on doors for a eave cupboard. Approx 8m long 1.3m high. First plan was bedroom sliding doors cut down by a company then installed by us but I didnt like the quality/style of anything I have seen. 2nd thoughts would be diy MDF doors ourselves. I like the idea of copying the J grip on a handless kitchen door and painted in a gloss. These doors will be visible in public areas so need to be finished good. I dont have much experience with fine wood working but got almost all the tools would only need a few router bits and possibly a dust extraction set up on router. Also got a paint sprayer for painting. Any big problems in my idea?

I prefer a manual airpoint but with a space to catch air usually a length of pipe vertical leading the airpoint.

That's a good price PeterW. Was planning on using the brick multipanel in the larder but tbh when I got the sample I wasnt impressed with the plastic core. Will have another look at the ply core.

i always thought multipanel was the industry standard. I think i was quoted approx £80 plus vat from the local Pcenter for 8x4 sheet tile effect. Tile effect is a plastic core not mdf core as showerwall concrete.

Watching this thread, planning to tile the garage but haven't ruled out a 2 part epoxy paint as a cheaper and quicker solution.

Nothing to compare it to but pretty happy with the dewalt 2nd fix, although I am having problems with my 1st fix dewalt ?

Got some solid oak (27&40mm butcher block) worktops to cut down for various jobs and the cuts will be on show. Need a new blade for the dewalt plunge saw, any recommendations? Also will need to router the sharp edge done slightly, any good recommendations on router bits.

We had a similar arrangement as LA3222 ie it was me going with tape measure, level etc. It worked very well. Unfortunately we hit the neighbors electrical supply (nowhere near where was shown on the power supply map) it was my responsibility for the repair cost. Dont underestimate how easy a good driver makes it look. Whe would have been days ourselves to level the last course before the insulated raft.

we where £400 a day (plus diesel) for one guy with 8t digger, 2t dumper and a sit on roller. i drove the dumper and my father was in the OUR jcb 3cx. Money well spent! He was one of that guys who could turm his hand to everything, we also took him on as a labourer on the ICF pour days.

Single block on side with 200mm eps external wall insulation. Purge coat inside of block work for air barrier either batten out or frame wall then plasterboard. This would match very well with a insulated raft foundation and spray insulated roof. It would be one continuous insulated envelope.

The stonmason has recommended STS board behind 40mm sandstone stone slip (internal). Never heard of the stuff before.

We used copper b press on heating installation from 2005 onwards for the local council jobs (gas pipe where still soldered although you can get copper press fit for that aswell). Then we picked up second hand machines on German ebay (ebay.de) for a few hundred euros. The heads only fit one size and type of fitting so we needed 4 heads 15&22 mm copper and 16 & 20mm uponor. Cracking system. New machine approx £800 plus £80 for each head now.