dpmiller

yes, gotta burn the gases.

I'm waiting on a Bronpi boiler stove to touch down here in the next week or so. Ecodesign, external air, fancy preheated secondary and tertiary air setup. Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.

I get the feeling the UK stove manufacturers are part of the problem. They seem reticent to do much meaningful R&D or add tech, and the response to some of the new regs was just to stop sell, rather then certificate or improve certain models. Hence the total lack of boiler stoves as of last year.

which bit of BT33 is it? have you actually got enough soil to put a slinky in before hitting bedrock?

Similar is also used for swimming pool solar heating

why would a pipe start leaking?

worth noting that the minimum cycle times on, and off, are configurable in the installer menu and if you ensure there's plenty of turn off overshoot, then you can have a gently tailing off heating period each time. Or you could try playing with the PID settings...

there are two that I know of- one for the Carel display, and one within the App. Send me a PM if there's something you think you need to change in the nether...

There's a bit more description of some things in the "original" manual, see attached. The installer password will let you make a real mess of things if you want, but you should be able to do 95% of what you need in user and timezone masks. I find the scheduler is good, you can have it on 24/7 but use temperature changes to "prioritise" heating, if you will... sprsun-user-manual-for-dc-inverter.pdf

careful... that means weather compensation is turned on so your setpoint will be all over the place, also you may not get full power when you want it. You might try setting it to high speed to begin with until you get a feel for how the system responds and can tune the WC in.

@Adam2 so have you the probe in the buffer tank, and you're controlling the heat pump on it, and the UFH is completely separate? Are you using the time and temp scheduling, and what fan mode are you in? I'd tighten the temperature difference setting a little so there's less chance of the flow going cooler than optimal, and make sure there's a bit of overshoot (this is the area where there is most modulation- it ramps down approaching setpoint, and then ramps down further in an attempt to keep the unit on and running even tho you've achieved temperature...

@joth Yes we can set variable flow or return temps, schedule temperature changes by time, run WC, choose the DeltaT etc etc. That's why I queried whether the OP was in flow or return control and what the PWM pump was up to... the CE inverter pumps might be "cheaper" than the big brand stuff, but lack none of the functionality.

put a calibration offset on the stat so it reads a wee bit high might help or if it's happening in all the rooms, reduce the flow temperature a degree or two yes. Is the heatpump controlling on flow or return btw? And what DeltaT is the heatpump seeing?

so this isn't really insurance, it's boiler breakdown cover and they want to make some money out of you?

I must admit I'm rather intrigued by Cool Energy's new offering https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/myenergi-smart-ev-charger-solar-power-diverter/products/cool-energy-solar-power-diverter It's *very* like the iBoost (display, buttons, menu etc) but much bigger and currently much cheaper. I was wondering if it might be fanless, and whether the current iBoost might [cough] disappear off the market soon...

but...but... It's not a digger, it's a telehandler. They've generally got anti-drop valving so what's the problem really? /ducks and runs

Give it longer on/off periods and it turns into a SBR (small batch reactor), as there's settling time then.

long drill bit, even a masonry one will get through 10mm of OSB.

I got one of these for my father recently https://www.diy.com/departments/byron-white-wired-video-doorbell/8713016106797_BQ.prd handy upgrade for an old transformer-powered setup and can connect to any number of Byron internal wireless chimes.

sticky flow sensor worth checking for

Umm, three or four years ago...

I'm going to drag this kicking and screaming from the past with a question. It turns out that our system chimney ends up bringing the flue into the house (through the Ignis Protect insulator) a wee bit lower than would be optimal for our chosen stove. It's at 45degrees. The regs drum on about elbows being a max of 45deg and a maximum of 4in a system, with a 90 seen as 2x 45s. So this means it's acceptable to use a 45 to bring the pipe to horizontal, and then a 90 to drop it into the stove but does this then *not* allow (say) using a 15 as soon as it leaves the wall and then a 45+15 onto the top of the stove? As the resultant 60 isn't specifically mentioned and otherwise there'd be "too many" changes of direction? That would seem preferable to me as a 60 is less restrictive than a 90, and there would always be a chance of condensate drips from a truly horizontal section Am I being stoopid?

were the previous parts ever cleaned and lubricated in the ten years?

Is it really zero signal in the house? SMS can come over a *very* sketchy link. Are you *sure* SMS over WIFI is actually happening?

Nick's on the money on this one unfortunately, unless you've got at least a pressure gauge, but really a combustion analyser. My gut says that flame is a bit small but I don't see the sparkly stars you'd expect with *really* low pressure. Is it set up at a standard trim per the manual (jet spec and air number?) and make sure all the HE plates are flat, a really bent one will feck with the chamber pressure.