dpmiller

yep. DI and RO water can eat through some metals, even certain grades of stainless. Lab pure water systems use only plastics and high-grade stainless for this reason, we don't want any trace metals in the water...

you'd need to be using DI water else residues could cause tracking over. Then, you run the risk of pure water tarnishing componentry...

I wonder if these stats have an accelerator (heater/ some AI copy of) that's massaging the sensor to improve response?

yes they work. I put the manifolds on a slight slope (same with rads) so the any air tends to move up and along to the end where the bleeder is

you've not seen one, or there haven't been any?...

it takes our unit a fair while to ramp right up to full speed. Around 10min at a guess, as there's a period to begin with where the pump alone runs.

Funny, I've been reviewing last year's data and comparing it to now, myself. We've got the woodstove now which adds flexibility. A pleasant fire of an evening adds a considerable amount of energy to the TS. Whilst warming the downstairs directly, it also means there's enough heat in-the-tank that the upstairs rads can warm without the ASHP being demanded every time. I've increased the setpoint of the downstairs thermostat by 1C and started it a bit earlier so it's actually running and demanding heat by the time the E7 period starts. That extra bit of energy into the floor really stabilises the whole-house temp. I've also taken a degree off the overnight flow temp. I'm running the immersion diverter on timed boost every morning just before getting-up time for 30 mins. The heat pump is working noticeably less hard and there are far fewer defrosts

colours- red/white vs white/red

I bought a Makita- cloney one off Amazon a wee while back and it has a (manual, but nevertheless...) oiler. Very impressed so far. Recommended... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B4J2BL3T

yep, the two manuals on Grant's website are next to useless. There a couple of chaps on here with a bit more info so hold tight...

remind us what "stop temp differential" you're set to- increasing that a degree might well save ploughing through the PID stuff too much

you can easily shift the ambient probe clear of the evap.

^ breaks down a lot, dealer treats you like cr*p?

^ yep, E7 timing is preprogrammed into our dual-rate meters over in NIE land too

yep a couple of hundred K would be worth a try, it's what we would fit across a starting capacitor to ensure it discharges. Or an old-fashioned pygmy 15W filament bulb?

the LED driver is slowly charging up until it fires. A suitable resistance in parallel with the driver should stop it, but this is one of the many issues with switch-mode power supplies. A different brand of driver may perform differently too...

sorry, yesterday ended up being a 600-miler... Unsurprisingly it's actually Hager like the rest of our stuff https://www.directtradesupplies.co.uk/product.php/189877/hager-6a-2-way-ceiling-switch--white-

who did the install? Our guy was very open about his calculations, pointing out every high or low spot on the PIR. The subfloor was poured as three slabs and the middle one ended up with a bit of a dish, so our hallway has closer to 65mm.

I tried a few cheaper options until I found one that was reasonable light and quiet. I'll update later when back at home with make and model

do they use foam any more? Isn't it generally a synthetic felt-like layer now?

are the red caps on the MVHR ducts airtight?

surely "above ground" means exposed to sunlight?

short term you could just screw a car valve cap onto the outlet?

No idea how the numbers work but our PVC centrepivots have pretty complex seals, one wiping, one compressive .

yep sounds like blockboard.