dpmiller

Council BCO's local knowledge is good value for footings.

they're a lot thicker.

Not cheap, true; but the tool for the job. It's made to flex and is smooth bore. Convoluted tube is remarkably restrictive, and if it's flexible enough for isolation tends to degrade over time in my experience.

what game?

All our doors and windows cost less than that to buy, installed.

It's just treated as an IDE device.

Don't think a USB stick is easily do-able internally, but some of our systems have a CF card instead of an HDD something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pin-bare-Laptop-44-Pin-Male-IDE-To-CF-Card-Adapter-U9B8/183751687229?epid=1443191047&hash=item2ac8743c3d:g:LdcAAOSwO2pcnL2I

cheapo chansaw? Won't get better than this from B&Q https://www.diy.com/departments/fpcsp52-petrol-chainsaw/1709118_BQ.prd bought one last year (at £65 or so) and it's super.

I think they've recently moved to a short flex-coupling option, at least that's what they sent me- it's a ~ 6" length of what seems like a silicone coated fabric tube.

So a standalone pump connected to your choice of tank would be a better option? Like Ecocent Energy, or the Ecocent MVHR and kill two birds with one stone?

GSE trays fit a bit like a velux window flashing-wise and the PV panel then sits down into the tray. Depending on the choice of roof covering there's a fair saving in cover.

Are the rising walls in ICF or block?

NIE Networks look after the infrastructure and between the quote and the install there's a form that your spark fills in- details of loads, renewables etc, and a signoff that the install is per the 17th. they also look after the meter install, regardless of the energy vendor.

Yes, the main ducts will be covered too. The unit itself is basically a big lump of polystyrene, not much more to do there.

remind us what zone valves you have plz.

It's a cold-roof build. All the radial pipes will be within the ceiling insulation (200mm between joists, 200mm over, with the ducts in-between) and there's a foiled fibreglass wrap to cover the galvy ducts with.

guessing it's to give DHW priority over heating?

Productive weekend. First few sheets of PB up downstairs, more tiling (both side wings complete, ridge tiles on etc), and the main ducts in place for the MVHR. Still need to strip them all back out to seal joints/ make up hangers/ insulate etc.

ta. Tried a couple of Lidl's finest fake Fisher plugs and they took OK.

cheapo chinesium wifi thermostat.

I've used plenty over the years- never really liked the Stripmaster, but *do* rather like the new automatic jobbies like in post 2 above. Other than it being right-handed of course... Nice clean strip of inner and outer with a couple of squeezes.

I've got some ridge end caps to fix "up above". They're pretty heavy clay and I woudn't want'em falling off... They're drilled for two fixings on the face, that's not a problem. Likewise, I'll need to pop a bit of treated timber in between them and the blockwork to space'em out for the verge trims and future render. Again, not a problem. But has anyone a recommendation on fixings onto the blockwork? Unfortunately I use that term pretty loosely as there's mostly mortar buttered into the peak... Too soft for concrete screws obviously, so are any specific plugs a definite go-er? Don't want to risk bursting the mortar. Or is it a case for gripfill / AN Other anchor into the screwholes and behind the timber?

Makes me glad I went with a bog-standard UPVC company- deposit on CC, bulk payment immediately before install on CC, cash to fitter on installation.

Goodies from Larne!

Half- lit means leaking slightly. Neons begin to light at 90v or so IIRC. Could be an internal fault keeping the "switch" partly on, eg a capacitor or diode; a neutral fault on the load not allowing it to take the natural leakage of the "switch" down low enough; or an induced voltage in the wire to the load caused by proximity to another. Or any combination thereof.