Trw144

I have an element of plastering that needs doing that has just a dawned on me is likely to crack if just done with normal plaster. I ve sketched a side profile of the detail below. Essentially the question is the the plasterboard - it is bound to flex slightly as the glass will and therefore I am worried about cracking. Is it possible to buy plaster that will cope with this movement or is there another option - mdf etc?

Yes I can't remember what size I used but I did beef it up to cover voltage drop. Fortunately the longest runs away have shorter led strip lengths.

I have some 24v led strip lighting and need to know the power consumption so that i can match it to my 50w outputs from the home automation kit. On the box the tape says 12w/m and 96w/10m. I had assumed the wattage was the same per metre whether I had one meter (ie. 12w) or 10m (120w). What am I missing?

Think we will come in at around £1250-1300 m2 all done on 330m3 build. Project managed myself - German kitchen, hi end bathrooms, home automation, glass stairs, balcony etc. Again, I m another who has given up worrying on numbers - I m comfortable in the knowledge that the mortgage on our new house will be smaller than the one I had 5 years ago on 3 bed semi that was worth 4 times less.

So pleased to hear this, my daughter has a chest condition and I m hoping the new house will be the best possible environment for her to minimise risks. Have also opted for uv sterilisers on the water and pollen filters in the mvhr.

Looks like they exist everywhere but Herefordshire!

Niko also do an anthracite which is what I am using as I wanted switches and sockets to match..

This is the renderplas bead.... Going to get a professional silicone bead person (I m told they exist) to come round after and ensure a nice finish and no dust gets behind (probably get away without it but will just give it that final finish).

Rusty nail, hammer, roundup

Can't tell you what they are like to live with yet but we have just installed shadow gaps using the renderplas sgl20 profile. Biggest issue is that it messes up the normal order of doing things, so we ve had to tile before plasterboard, and upstairs we ve had to install the plasterboard with a 15mm gap beneath it, whilst still allowing for the expansion behind it. I have some spare if you want some at a good price!

Insulation 4 less I used - I ll check on what price I got and let you know

I ve just ordered all my sockets without switches (admittedly it was nt an option). Like you I don't necessary see the need.

I thought it was a picture of the Touchwood factory! It's massive

I was the same and opted not for massive cover on the tools. So far I ve bought a drill, a Stanley knife, two tape measures, and a silicone gun so it was probably the right decision.

Also, it can be used as a measuring stick for people allowed upstairs. If you can t fit in and out of the drivers seat, your too big to go upstairs.

Was wondering how best to use the part of my double garage not given over to fancy plumbing, and reward myself for the recent months of stress. Purchased the answer today ..... ?????

Not sure, will measure when onsite or find tech spec for it. It has its own injection mounded insulation jacket.

Yes the pump stations negate the need for satellite pumps and blenders - saves pumping higher temperature water around the house and therefore is more efficient, and I just have manifold with individual zone valves in the remote locations. I ll have to find the detail on the valve on the cold accumulator. One of my employees used to go round looking for/reporting on legionnaires and basically he scared me into adding one! Yes that's a typo - ordering led lights from Ecoled yesterday so must have got mixed up! Unfortunately RHI doesn't allow ST to go into the heating system so that is only connected to the cylinder. The reason for the low loss was to avoid the pumps fighting each other which my techie was concerned may be an issue (he s my best techie so I generally go along with him) - and I just happened to have a sample one sat on my desk.

So, basically the system is using a radial plumbing arrangement using Henco pipe - the majority of pipe runs are in 14mm pipe that has allowed me to do long pipe runs without lots of joints, and minimal pipe expansion (due to the aluminium layer in the plastic pipe). The joints are connected by means of a "press gun" that squashes the connectors onto the pipe under high force. Pretty much each point of use has its own dedicated pipe run from the manifolds, with the shower and bath runs using larger 20mm pipe to maximise flow rates. The white cylinder is a 300 litre hot water cylinder, with an additional solar coil to input energy from the 6m2 of solar panels on the roof (these pipes are nt yet installed). Out of shot on the left hand side is a filter and UV steriliser that treats the incoming mains before it passes through the blue 300 litre expansion vessel that has been installed to help maintain a constant water pressure. This expansion vessel has a special valve/connector designed to ensure a constant flow of water through it and this help negate the need for any nasty bacterias to grow. On the right hand side are what I call "pump stations". These are connected to the flow and return from the boiler, and provide temperature controlled water (by means of a three way valve) to the ground floor ufh manifold, first floor ufh heating manifold, and towel radiator manifold (yes, I decided I may want to adjust the temperature to the towel rail circuit!). The second unit along does not feature a three way valve (only a pump) and provides the heat to the hot water cylinder (when the solar is not siufficient). The pump stations use a clever base casting to allow multiple units to be connected from a single Set of flow and returns. Above the pump stations is the small three circuit manifold that will give me independent control of each towell radiator circuit. Not yet connected is the Valliant Ecoled boiler - this will be connected, via a small low loss header, to the punp stations. I have purchased an additional 0-10v controller for the boiler that will allow me to alter the flow temperature based upon the highest current water temperature demanded. Essentially this means the flow temperature will be increased for hot water charging (say 65 degrees), and then outside these times dropped back to say 35-45 degrees in the ufh circuits (weather compensated based on outside temperature).

I aways keep the mop near in my garage/plant room?

They took a Stanley knife to my airtightness in the process though! Need to spend some time retaping.

Some pipework porn for you Nick....

As your always eating whenever I ve called you, yes I think you should be in the banned list ?

In all fairness, it's not just Americans who are banned, it will also be Tongans and Micronesians.

Canadians?