Trw144

If you want an airtight house and having heat recovery then I suggest you look for a stove that is approved to the German DIBt standard. The vast majority of stoves that have an external air kit are'nt remotely air tight and it is more of a suggestion of where the stove should get its air from. Unfortunately building air tight stoves is more of a continental approach and therefore this may be at odds with the traditional style you are after. ps. If you want thermal mass then add soapstone on the stove - either externally or internally.

This one, it's 10kw to water though!

Is it this one (minus the blokes ass)?

Yes but I think most people want a stove on the basis they sit down and see it working, as opposed to lighting it every few days. There are others on the market with a similar output to room but a bit lower to water.

Is that the right one? I'm on the stand 1m away from them so can take pictures if you want!

Is it this one....?? https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-CXT12-boiler-stove.html Also is 9kw not a little much for a passive house?

Due to my large format tiles, I think I'm going to go with a floor drain/channel, possibly even two due to the width of the room. I need to work out heights as I need to install this before the screeds and I suspect I'll need to put reduced height insulation in at this point. Am I best off with a tanking system (Schluter etc) on the floor and walls or something like a wedi board/aqua panel?

Thinking ahead to battening this out, do I attempt to do anything where the battens will be screwed through the membrane or will this have neglible effect and therefore is nt worth worrying about?

Well I m hoping it stays stuck on my house for a good few yrs! I have/will tape it to the "tony tray" sat below the first floor and roof joists and to the dpc floor membrane .

Yes - managed to stick it to my iPhone and pull it apart trying to get it off! Still, not as bad as dropping my old blackberry into a tin of gloss paint on my last house.

Jeremy, you will be pleased to see the membrane on the inner face of all insulation.....

The only other issue I may have is that I will be having 900 x 900 tiles so getting the fall to the centre of the wall may be harder than getting it to fall into a long channel in the floor that spans maybe 1.5m

That's a very nicely thought out product. Any idea how much? Thinking about u bends - is that one deliberately built in two the flexible black hose on it? Think I d also want to tank the floor and walls more than they have.

I'm at a position where I need to start planning bathrooms and layouts - I have three in the new house, a main bathroom, 1 ensuite, and a downstairs wc/wetroom. I thought I'd start a new thread that can be used for all the questions and help I could do with. The downstairs wc/wetroom is the most pressing one as layout and drainage needs to be put in before the floor screed in just 4 weeks time, and any necessary falls put in the floor. The room is only occasionally going to be used for as a shower room and therefore I want the shower to be discrete, therefore I don't want to install a shower screen, and will use a recessed shower head - most probably from crosswater or grohe, with a digital controller - again probably the crosswater solo/duo, or the grohe f series. Now, the bit I don't know is: 1. What is the best drainage channel to use. 2. What fall is required on the tiles - I m assuming it will want to fall from the doorway towards the back wall, and from either side towards the centre. 3. What is the best tanking system to use for the walls and floor, and how far across the room should this come. Here is a picture showing the layout - the thin blue rectangle where I think the drainage channel should roughly be, and the yellow rectangle showing where the recessed shower head will be. WC Wetroom Plan.pdf

Nice work Nick - still might try and coax you to Hereford for installing. I was even looking at b&b's for you the other day. ?

I m looking at a Husqvarna 305 robot mower - anyone had any experience? My only concern is how well it will cut the strip of grass at the side of the house as I don't want a robot mower and still need another mower. Found one for sale that will only cost me £500

Picture 3 - do you not have a "tony tray" wrapped around the end of the joists and therefore making that area airtight? I have similar overhangs and was thinking of adding insulation into the space

Great, thanks

So 24v ip20 LEDs would be fine above the heigh limit?

Will double check on selv rules but I think the leds I m using elsewhere are ip20 rated.

Can I chip in and ask if additional up rating is required above a shower if the recessed lights are 24v?

What's the best way of insulating these steel beams - above it is a warm flat roof with 150mm rigid insulation but one or two cantilever out so will cold bridge to an extent. I had looked into spray foam but no one local to me does it, and it's not a big enough job for someone to travel. There are diy kits but would I be better off with rockwall or pir instead?

Hi. herbj, what render system did you use?

Well, today I've started adding the additional insulation - it was not a job I planned on doing myself but in all honesty, it isn't too bad as the insulation is only 30mm and seems easiest to cut with a half decent kitchen knife. Managed to do about half of upstairs in a few hours his morning, sorting out the overlaps on the airtight membrane at the same time. This also means the vcl/airtightness membrane will on the inside of all insulation.

1400 for fitting including balancing/commissioning. Just met the guy and to be fair he seemed to know his stuff, has been in the trade 15 yrs. He d be happy to install the ventaxia but thinks two systems on my size house would be better (lower fan speed etc). Edit - sorry read fitter not filter! Need to check.... I have asked for the special pollen filter as both my children are suffering from hay fever at present