Trw144

I could, but it's another support bar and I antd to keep it minimal. It it would not be secured on the floor - just the wall.

Possibly - I guess I could just get one, not fit the bar and add it if it seems a bit wobbly

I m having trouble finding a 1200-1300mm wide shower screen that only uses a side fixing system (ie. No support arm at the top). I m m not sure how dependent they are on the support arm for strength and whether installing one without the arm would cause issue?

The K rend thin coat (timber frame house). From what your both suggesting you suggest not having that drainage channel and instead just ensure a suitable plastic head to ensure it drops off?

Can anyone tell me what render detail they have done regarding dpc/drip routes for rendering around windows. Renderer says he never does this, architect has drawn it. I m not sure if it's the renderer being lazy or architect overkill?? No urgency but I need to know for the morning!

There s a free app which helps you produce what you need - it's called CDM Wizard from memory and I used it so at the very least it did nt look like I d ignoreddbthe subject.

Yep. Just did a price comparison and best deal is standing charge of 16p a day and gas at 2.6p/kWh, so way off epc figures

Can anyone shed any light on this?

The sap table I have just found (dated October 13) shows mains gas at 3.48p/kWh and standing charge of £120 per year.

I thought the same. On mine, £1488 over 3 years does nt stack up with 5000 kWh per year, on a modern gas (mains) boiler. That's roughly 10p/kWh which is way off.

Well that blows my theory

We ve just got an 89 - B. I might be wrong but I think you basically need PV to get into the 90's. Main thing is it predicts my heating costs at 5000kwh a year so I d be happy with that.

Someone on the forum (Prodave?) used wood fibre board. You can render straight onto it, and it also insulates which is something that may suit your requirements with the steel frame.

I ve used the same with large format tiles but I ve still got Union Jack cuts as the water needs to still flow from the sides into the channel. It's possible you could et away without it if only that room is being tiled and you can set the tiles based on that channel. In my instance the wet room is downstairs and as the whole of the ground floor has been tiled, the shower channel had to fit in with tiles. Cant remember what I paid for the channel and drain something like £3-400? from memory.

I ve never liked the look of the fixing bolts to be honest so want them covered. Last time I used a white powder coated trim piece but I prefer it to match the plaster/walls around it this time.

Possibly but you d be bored without my questions!

Some of the buffers I sell have stratification devices inside (a steel column with lots of holes in it) - so even though it is the same body of water, there are dedicated points for flow and returns that should be used

Looking at it again tonight I m not sure if I m worrying about nothing. Whilst their is a little bit of play at the top of the glass due to its height, the bottom seems pretty well braced so not sure if it would cause an issue if I battened straight onto it or not. Any one with any experience?

This is what I want to achieve...

Can you expand on this? What I was concerned on doing was sticking any battening onto the glass as it will inevitably move, along with the plasterboard fixed to it so this will cause a crack.

Are you auto shading based on room temperature? I ve pretty much programmed my loxone system now - was pretty impressed with how intuitive it was - managed it in a couple of nights after work. Only left with the 0-10v signal for the boiler temperature control, and a couple of rooms and switches to assign

It's my landing balustrade, I ll take some on site picture tomorrow but I m with you in thinking a structure that is fixed beneath the glass but not directly onto the glass Should nt see the glass as I have put a white vinyl on the outer edges of the glass beneath floor height, precisely for that reason.

Yes, I guess I could. Presumably I could even make it from mdf as finding someone to make it in would would be easier (and cheaper) than a metal fabricator. Some flexible silicone would do for the gap to allow tiny moevement but a flush finish?