markc

If it’s taking the roof load then things get a little more complicated as you will need a lintel or load bearing header above the windows. BC would/shoul want to see an SE spec and sign off for the detail there.

I think this is very like being anal on air tightness and then opening a door every few hours for visitors or Amazon (other delivery services are available) parcels. yes build well but don't overspend on something that makes very little difference.

I have this one and it’s brilliant, Acti fry (with rotating paddle) is a pain. Most used thing in my kitchen. I live on my own and fiancée visits. Just so much quicker and easier for small portions than using the oven

True, and if you had holding down bolts or rods then there is no point trying to isolate the base

Good morning and welcome, sounds like you have more practical experience than many on here undertaking some pretty advanced projects

No problem doing that assuming it’s not a load bearing wall. No difference to fixing in middle of a stud wall

Think the thread needs a name change

MOT within 30mm(ish), blinding around 10mm is good.

The amount of heat transfer by the studs and post base will be very small

Hi, if you do a bit of searching on here you will find loads of info, pros and cons of the different ways to approach this. Lot depends on the existing structure, build, insulation levels etc.

That is very easy to take down and would only be a weeks work for 2 people (experienced) and a tele handler and scissor lift. if you want to do it yourself, hire a small scissor lift, get the sheets off, most of purlins out and then get someone local with tele handler to give you a hand for a day to lay frames down. Say £200 for 2 weeks scissor lift and £300 for tele handler for a day.

If you are boxing in with PB then you are keeping it warm and fireproofed

Condensation really depends where the steel is, if fully inside the warm envelope then condensation will not be a problem. And steel will stand up to fire better than timber trusses etc so no need for fire protection.

+1

As above bituminous paint is good (especially where the steel exits the concrete). Steel fully covered in concrete is left bare (re-bar) with no concern for corrosion.

Only way is a couple of battens across the two with a single screw so they can rotate and knock in sequentially

Found pour levels often done with rods/rebar/big nails pushed into trench sides (on a site vertical rebars in trench would be classed as a hazard and need caps.

You rake out mortar across a crack, insert a small length of reinforcing (mesh, rod, brick-tie) and then repoint the mortar. Leave to cure and then do the next joint. (You can do a few joints at once but not adjacent or the crack can open more while mortar is going off) .. unless you bend rod into a elongated U shape and hook over the ends of bricks into vertical joints.

@ollie be careful! Do not get sucked in by sales talk. See what they say, post it on here for comments and get a 2nd evaluation/quote. I have an old railway property and no way would a ASHP be suitable but my new oversized combi works well and pretty cheap to run I reckon (much lower than the old much lower powered combi I took out).

ASHP is not just a replacement and likely requires a lot of changes made to the existing. they work slowly and at much lower temperatures so need a large water tank. They also work best with UFH or need much larger radiators. how old is the property and how is it constructed? Loads of members on here are ASHP guru’s and can give specific advice with more info

Pumped will (should) not flow under a vertical shutter unless over poked to make it flow. When pouring a big slab with perimeter walls you do the perimeter of the slab first poking to flow under the shutter, then the middle to allow a few minutes settling and then pour the walls being careful not to over poke causing the slab to move. so do your low level pours first then go back and pour the higher sections allowing the mix to flow up to the shutter.

It will be fine as long as the glass is toughened and laminated and they will want to see paperwork to prove.

Jig is easy to make, trend one is good but overkill. Look on youtube

Still sounds like Bullsh1t. I know what I would get on and lay it, glued and on a decent non insulating underlay but only you can make your decision

Have to be very careful here, the previous owner of my house had put insulation between cellar and kitchen and it caused damp and rot in the floor and joists, I had to rip everything out and now heat the cellar and have no insulation at cellar ceiling. Result is a nice dry cellar and warm kitchen floor.