markc

Polished concrete needs a good bit longer than 1 day/mm or your surface a) won’t polish or quickly goes dull as the moisture keeps rising. I don’t have enough knowledge or experience to give you trade secrets just a few not too cracking experiences when jobs were rushed

Far too many variables to be accurate but £1250/sqm is certainly not extortionate

Given the digger bucket size, 175mm would make the most sense. ? Excavations will never be within or even near to 5mm tolerance. Yes to being careful and not needing loads of extra concrete but never dig undersize, a bit of extra mass fill is much cheaper and easier than going back to straighten or widen trenches

The OSB on a timber frame is most likely for wind bracing, not for making it sound or feel more solid.

Ahh, yes I see the rafters in the pic now

@Adsibob if you can live with the vertical timber then absolutely yes!

If you are not wanting to see the lintel or struggling for head height then a steel angle (galvanised) under the wall plate and up behind it would be neat. do you need a lintel? If the wall plate isn’t supporting anything at that point then it won’t need a lintel

@Adsibob assuming you could find the studs, your biggest issue would be cracking of plaster and punching through the PB at the heal of the bracket. Cantilevers are great but the moments (loads) involved are many times the load on the arm itself. A vertical timber fixed to a wall with shelves fixed to that massively reduces the point loads changing them into shear which PB can withstand much better than pull-out and compression loads

I can’t see why not, if the wall isn’t boarded yet then additional noggins inserted between uprights close to where the brackets would be fitted will stop and twisting tendency. (C and E sections twist twist inwards with localised bending moments

Sometimes 🤔

Yes but they tick the looney greenie boxes

Yes they are more than enough, as are M12 fixings. Space at 600mm ish between the joist locations

Vindaloo

Too much info 😳

Yes, glued and screwed

Great find, not worth making them for that price

I would say your Architect has drawn something that is almost impossible to achieve on site using bricks and being done by brickies. If you want equal gaps on an arch you would have been better with off site fabricated arches using individually cut brick slips on a concrete or similar backing. If you look at your drawing you will see every brick is tapered along its length and with an angle cut end and I haven’t measure them but probably drawn longer than bricks are available anyway.

UFH pipes should not be hot to touch. UFH is not like a radiator where you feel heat straight away. Plus an orangery! I’m assuming this has a lot of glass and very little insulation so you UFH is going to be pretty useless.

Yes I would say it’s bituminous, definitely not asbestos with the honeycomb/perforated reinforcing

This is the guidelines and design criteria. If the clips are secured correctly yes. Now a 2metre long waste pipe blocked up could weigh around 150kgs which many people don’t realise and stick a couple of short screws in poorly drilled holes.

Yes, make the job 100x easier. Don’t use hacksaw!

Ahh, much better pics to give context. Any problems with ceiling to wall joint? Is this opening or been filled in the past? I was thinking this was a small extension sort of stuck on, but the build looks good, assume bi folds are working ok and no other issues so the gap and brick misalignment is becoming a mystery and the extension sinking is looking less likely. is the floor still level? If so then rule out underpinning etc. as the problem must be local to the joint, not the whole build

Embedment is one consideration but more important with cantilevers is the bending moment on the arms themselves. a large load close to the wall is easy due to shear, but move that load away from the wall and the rods experience less shear but increased bending and tension (dependant on the point of rotation). heavy duty floating shelves need box or circular section stubs coming out of the wall (which also needs to be able to resist the rotational moment). make the shelves even deeper and the loads increase dramatically

I would be using resin anchors (threaded rods bonded into oversize holes in the wall). Concrete screws should be fine as the will be in shear and unlikely to move but well fixed resins will never move.

Has to be an heat exchanger and UHF pump