markc

Turf cutters do cut an even depth but only because they are running on very flat level ground.

Hi and welcome, if it doesn’t affect traffic line of sight or restricts light into a neighbours window then I don’t know of any restriction … if you planted a hedge it could/would be above 2m in no time

600mm centres is fine

“Accidentally” knock pole over with digger or similar, no survey, no fee, no problemo

Make sure it’s delivered hot, you will often get groups 😉 offering to tarmac drives on the cheap but it’s likely to be stuff that’s gone cold and thrown away while road laying somewhere.

Long lengths can (and are) rolled on site (by specialist mobile gutter companies) but these are fairly small gutter sizes. Very few sheet fabrication shops have press brakes longer than 3m, bigger fabrication and shipbuilding shops will have 6m capacity but they wouldn’t be interested in gutters. Note to self …read the whole post before typing 🙈

I thought as much, water is entering the ground either directly or splash as noted above and then finding its way in through the hole. I would dig out and seal around the duct and pipe to prevent water having any easy path to the inside.

What level is this compared to outside ground level?

In that case lathe out for the main roof (to keep your full bottom tile) run down the extension to keep the same coursing (or you will see the join) and loose any odd bit at the bottom of the extension, no one will notice it there.

Is the extension a continuation of the main roof? Similar to a cat slide or does it join at a funny angle?

This needs some closer investigation, the internal photos imply the bay/s have dropped but the external pic doesn’t support this.

Contact adhesive is far from ideal but better than nothing. Why two layers of 11mm? The extra work, especially all the extra screws and gluing large areas will be a pain.

1:1 white vinegar and water, put it in a spray bottle and fantastic for cleaning bathroom fittings and screens

Sounds about right. I’ve recently been working on £2750 ish per tonne with certs for small quantities.

Another for holesaw. Don’t get one of the cheap trepanning cutters (bar with one or two cutters you can adjust)

I would also say it’s condensation, no downward streaking to indicate leaking through window etc.

Forget the kids or grandkids … it would be me!. I love toys but an electric loft ladder? Think that would go with the chocolate fireguard

Hi, industrial building by necessity have large roof areas so the gutters need to be proportionately large, hanging them on the outside of the cladding would need big pretty ugly brackets, but portal frame buildings have nice columns to sit the gutters on and the cladding goes on the outside of the columns so it’s more ease and economy than design, plus multiple downpipes reduce the risk of overflowing gutters but it still happens, as does the occasional down pipe blockage and eruption!, but again generally not so catastrophic in a warehouse or factory environment.

Last residential one we did (good few years ago), the gutters and down pipes were not inside the building but hidden behind the cladding. Also asymmetrical gutter profile so the outer edge was much lower than the internal edge plus end over flow tel-tales to highlight blockages.

A lead flashing would be pretty straight forward as long as the roof is not low pitch as this would make sealing against blown water very difficult. a raised skylight with a symmetrical gap around the side does look very smart with corrugated sheets, just needs some care and attention with positioning to suit the corrugations

That’s a hidden gutter and the down pipes will be internal, common arrangement on industrial buildings.

Couldn’t agree more, ive been saying this for years.

The L&G set up at Sherborne in Elmet is an interesting place, very well laid out and highly mechanised.

Hello and welcome, having a plot is the biggest hurdle so we’ll done and have fun

The beads would help but you will still get cold and damp crossing the battens and into the PB. Sealing the brickwork would minimise damp coming in but moist air will still go from inside through the PB and condense on inner face of brickwork causing more damp