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markc

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Everything posted by markc

  1. markc
    Sooner rather than later to allow the ground to stabilise… moisture wise. no specific time frame but if you remove the tree now and dig the root bowl out the remaining roots will sort themselves.
  2. markc
    No! Great machine for finishing joints on handrails etc. But far too slow for first fix joinery, plus you tend to end up with a curved surface. Much easier with a sharp chisel and pare away at any material to be removed.
  3. markc
    Hi, I always allow 610mm. That way any variances in floor level or foot adjustment do not cause the machine to jamb in the hole and lean on a side panel as this causes the adjacent unit and doors to vibrate
  4. markc
    As above, sand and fill, no problem
  5. markc
    UFH generally runs around 25 degrees and gives a fairly even floor temperature. electric heating mats can result in much higher hot spots if a towel or something is left on the floor
  6. markc
    For the garage electrics the choice is yours. the flexible cheap stuff is fine but difficult to pull anything through. If you are putting the cables through first and then burying it, it’s fine.
  7. markc
    In that case you have done everything correctly. looking again at the pic is does appear heather hump is a result of expansion. not a great deal you can do, although it may cure itself in a few months. Get some glue into the de-laminated bit and plenty of weight while it cures
  8. markc
    In that case accept the 10% and tell them the difference is cancelled out by the delays
  9. markc
    Why has so much time past between quote, deposit and works being done? Was it their delays? Or something out of their control? If the client delays the works then it’s not really down to poor planning.
  10. markc
    That’s just single centre fixing, not great but not a problem as the nails are there to stop the slate sliding down the roof.
  11. markc
    I would remove the insulation and fit the ties, a well insulated roof sitting in the street won’t do you much good in a storm.
  12. markc
    A turret is never easy to slate or tile at the top. the original wasn’t great but this is just a bodge and run.
  13. markc
    Tile vents allow air over the felt but not really through the loft. I am guessing the extra insulation is stuffed right into the eaves and therefore blocking airflow. you don’t need to reduce insulation thickness, just pull it back a bit to allow air to flow again.
  14. markc
    Would be a shame to destroy all that exquisite craftsmanship
  15. markc
    Nothing a bit of sanding won’t sort
  16. markc
    Hep20 is my go-to for internals. Never had a leak. damn, I shouldn’t have said that ?
  17. markc
    12mm hardie backer will do nicely, it is incredibly strong and easily resists the twisting forces likely in this application. bugger to cut, scoring with diamond blade is the best but the dust is horrendous.
  18. markc
    I would get a solicitor to send them a friendly letter asking how they propose to rectify the damage to your roof
  19. markc
    Can’t wait to find a suitable plot or place to knock down to start a new build instead of refurbs.
  20. markc
    Quite a bit of orange peel and proud jointing, could have done with some sanding before top coating
  21. markc
    Did you leave an expansion gap around the edge? was the flooring left in the room for a couple of days before fitting? do you have UFH? what is the floor build underneath? was this supplied as herringbone? Did you maintain the tongue and groove joint at the ends?
  22. markc
    Lined and then painted? That’s just as bad as painting over wall paper ?
  23. markc
    There are “gun-able” expanding grout materials out there but you really need something to contain the spill until it starts to go off, very messy, quite expensive and a pain to get right. if access is difficult and the floor is staying put then cut some long low and timber wedges and these can be knocked into place by sliding a hammer or flat bar across the top flange of the RSJ
  24. markc
    Now I see, I would go with double wedges - one from inch side sliding on each other, this creates a parallel pack that does not push the joist over just noticed it’s only 5mm at max. Plastic shims from screw fix etc.
  25. markc
    @Kilt any pics? I’m struggling to get my head around this
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