tonyshouse

Chopsaw, tape mesure and a nail gun is almost all you need

Stick build on site.

The bigger the cylinder is the larger the losses will be but proportionately the the larger the cylinder the lower the proportion of heat lost will be. The smallest cylinder that you can manage with should be the one togo for. Recharge time could reduce the volume of stored hot water that you need as some can be made while using it, the furthest end of this argument finishes uowith zero storage and a combi boiler.

The bigger the cylinder is the larger the losses will be but proportionately the the larger the cylinder the lower the proportion of heat lost will be. The smallest cylinder that you can manage with should be the one togo for. Recharge time could reduce the volume of stored hot water that you need as some can be made while using it, the furthest end of this argument finishes uowith zero storage and a combi boiler.

But then in winter the heat should only escape into the house anyway, this applies to all cylinder so called heat losses in winter and the heat again worried about far to much that escapees from hot pipes too.

150 above finished ground level, this is independent of ffl, they can be higher and frequently periscope liners are used same for all, timber frame included

I think the reason for the concrete covering is to prevent accidental damage by enthusiastic gardeners.

If the pipe is less than 300mm deep then yes but I wouldn't bother if it was mine.

I hate indoor soil pies, noisy, draughty big time, difficult to access or work on. never have any drain in kitchen or utility, nightmare when gulley blocks, outdoor gulley, outside tap over it easy to clean, use accessible gulley and it can be Y'd into drain run. re manholes and short pipes, I minimise manhole numbers, try to combine entries I think you only need one or possibly two inspection chambers. I don't like aav at head of run,prefer vent

Lay a 5mm bed of sand into a frame set flints into this face down, lay thin mesh or grid on that, plop on mortar, leave some wall ties hanging our, allow to set. Build in like it was a window but without the wooden frame.

It is possible for water to track across an overlap join so good to use the sealing strips

We always seal the long joins on insulated sheets, there can be airtightness issues if you don't and sealing on the warm side of the sheets is important to stop pumping of interstitial condensation onto the cold parts which can then appear to be roof leaks.

Yes, we put them 75 mm up under the ridge piece and secure them in place with roof mastic, supplies with sheets if you ask for them, also usefulat the bottomif single ply or stepped sheets.

I always like to see a Belfast drip bead at the head that hangs down BELOW the level of the head or soffit. I do do not like the render stop or the detail at the head, looks like water will track into the reveal. I would not allow the plasterer or remderer to decide you need to tell him what you want.

If you get desperate keep bending it in the same place till it shears off.

barge covers go to top of roof, ridge fits flush to them.

Ridge pieces can be joined by overlapping 250mm no sealing the back of the join with mastic.

Specialist merchant, roofing merchant, I would use insulated sheets 80mm thick minimum

I have one --. tonyshouse.info See

Re roof wall junction, I would carry the insulation straight up vertically on top of the wall 50% between the trusses til it meets the roof insulation.

It is a good idea to spray the beads with PVA to stick them together, yes.

Re Fridays, --. Then no one would go on it til Monday we never worked on week ends.

Garden vac is useful too, beware of the dreaded static electricity do I get commission?

Why use cedar, it does not need treatment and once you treat it it will need doing again.

Collect polystyrene and put it through a garden shredder.