tonyshouse

Sodium nitrate dissolving in water in the masonry and as water evaporates leaves white or clear crystals behind. pinch a small sample, it will dissolve in water

Wider stairs, steps on the wall under the window making the landing larger/closer to window, feature/display area behind ballustrading. Secret room!

Measure on site, only safe way to go

I was my installer and ordered my own planks

Nicest dry valleys have an upstand down the middle to cut into

Holes in my concrete planks were designed in - they came with perfect sized holes in the perfect places for ducts and pipes

It won’t leak , I would have done all new ridges, join could be polysulphide masticed

Do you need glass in it? There are plenty of fire doors available, generally solid wood with pyro glass. Frame can have intumescent strip grooves routered in and pads are available for hinges. if the door is at the bottom of the stairs then it will be in a cool zone as cold air will puddle there an convection won’t take heat down there. I made my own front door by framing a fire door blank and insulating and cladding it 100mm thick and bespoke frame

I had this problem with SIPs a few years ago, to start with the technical department refused to allow any insulation outside the face of the SIPs but the eventually relented. I suspect that there are problems that are lurking and yet to be encountered, in the old days with poor insulation escaping heat may have been saving the day. As levels of insulation increase the risks of this type of condensation damage increases too. May be get a wufi model run - model of the thermal bridging with psi values

The soleplate is sitting on insulated block, but it is not insulated from the cold outside. Effectively the outside face of the sole plate is at near outdoor temperatures only heated by heat losses from inside. The tf wall is I presume insulated in the voids. If there is insulation over the inner face of the frame this will make the sole plate and bottom rail even colder, the coldest place will be under the outside bottom corner of the sole plate and condensation goes for coldest places, I see that as on top of the dpc which will get wet and the moisture will soak into the wood eventually causing decay

Well done with the drainage, and sorry Soleplate and bottom rail of the tf needs to be insulated outboard, worst case is condensation on top of the dpc! ruberised dpc, is available not sure about vcl

Is there no surface water drainage below the basement floor? Looks like thermal bridge at the soleplate very good idea to wrap the ends and sides of the concrete floor with air tightness barrier, dpc could be used, I would use rubberised and proprietary corners

I sent PM

Radon goes through solid rock! And concrete, and polythene. Best way to stop it is to ventilate it away from under your insulation layer or suspended floor structure

I am concerned about the dimensional stability of the wooden sheets , they will expand a little with heat, a bit more with moisture and should have been laid with gaps between them. They won’t necessarily shrink back when they dry out depending on lots of things. metal roof will collect condensation on the underside in some conditions insulated ot not and ventilated or not i prefer insulated metal sheets

50mm for me, but I would go cisterns in the loft too

Research, research research, keep a note of everything that you see that you like or love don’t use block paviours

Dont bridge the cavity with the sill, I would slide the window outwards into the cavity as much as you dare, mine are in my cavity/in the insulation layer for be no 3 but cut the back off the sill keeping some f the upstand

Two different thicknesses of sound block work well if double plaster boarding, rockwool found batts OCD on air gaps through, round, over and under even via the floor or loft, and no back to back electrics I prefer concrete blocks

I did mine with off cuts from a kitchen worktop company, £30 for 350x 2900 ten years ago ?

That would work, nice if wall is filled and flat before lining,

Do all your deciding now, passive house or better, masonry construction, 3g windows, colours, styles, floor plans, garage, needs and wants,

Doggy doing things over old wallpaper paste, if it was mine I would scrape, wash and sugar soap, then clean water wash, easyfill, sand, if lining then size, I might well seal with thinned pva first, then line, allow to dry then paint

Also it is kW not KW or killa wot ours

We use steel reinforcing to act as anti cracking, my soft sand works perfect, it is very soft and yellow, Thames Valley, the bottom board of the shutter can sit 15mm onto the brickwork sides tucked in too, silicone to stop the slip oozing out. Sand mix can be fairly thick as can any concrete you use we use angled ends to help form the fall and squared up the horn bit that sits under the reveal brick.