JohnMo

Just read this. https://www.solarreviews.com/blog/generators-for-solar-panels

Found this. https://gustohomes.co.uk/media-coverage/housebuilder-property-developer/

We'll find out when the next person jumps in!

Can't see why not. The changeover switch just alters where the main distribution box gets its source of electricity. So anything after the distribution box should see 230V and 50Hz as mains electricity and work as normal. Well I hope so.

Durisol, go on their website a full install instructions can be downloaded. Also need less structural steel, than some other systems. Easy to do cladding and internal battons as they screw directly into the woodcrete., Render, brick/ stone slips attach directly also. Downside is the block is not airtight, so needs either a membrane, parge or wet plaster coating. I did parge and service battons, then plasterboard (taped and jointed). If you doing it yourself, it does not need bracing, just osb/ply on the corners, at cot blocks and at lintels. But you can only do 6 levels high per pour of concrete. Overall easy enough to do yourself, only tools needed, I used was a recip saw, spirit levels, rubber mallet, tape measure, battery drill and roofers square.

Priced and checked running cost, then went petrol

To get system analysis as an after fit he would need to access the bar codes from each optimiser. To enable Monitoring and Safety features: • Collect the TS4 removable barcode label from the PV module junction box, install and commission communication accessories..

I bought a petrol generator 9kVA, for £800 from Hyundai, just got a changeover switch from Amazon for £40. Ran my armoured 6mm2 cable out to the shed, just need the electrician to wire it all up. That should keep the basics up and running and hopefully the PV will work when it sees the 230v.

From the user manual. Optimization and Long Strings features don’t require communication accessories for operation.

You need to choose something that suits the space and your pocket. Bit like asking what's the best pair of trousers to buy, you'll get a thousand answers and buy something completely different.

I would have put the windows s little higher

Have a search in the heating section a thread on there which sounds very similar to yours, was posted after the last storm.

The other alternative is to use sound acoustic insulation, it tends to hang together a bit better, but has the same thermal resistance. I found it a little less itchy.

Just read the regs. Not sure it is allowed to be connected to the mvhr anyway (second bullet below b.) Small garages - garages of less than 30m2 do not require the ventilation to be designed. It is expected that a degree of fortuitous ventilation is created by the imperfect fit of ‘up and over’ doors or pass doors. With such garages, it is inadvisable for designers to attempt to achieve an airtight construction. A garage with a floor area of at least 30m2 but not more than 60m2 used for the parking of motor vehicles should have provision for natural or mechanical ventilation. Ventilation should be provided in accordance with the following guidance: where the garage is naturally ventilated, by providing at least 2 permanent ventilators, each with an open area of at least 1/3000th of the floor area they serve, positioned to encourage through ventilation with one of the permanent ventilators being not more than 600mm above floor level, or where the garage is mechanically ventilated, by providing a system: capable of continuous operation, designed to provide at least 2 air changes per hour, and independent of any other ventilation system, and constructed so that two-thirds of the exhaust air is extracted from outlets not more than 600mm above floor level

Have you looked at a dMVHR, one unit in the wall. These are generally run based on condition. Would keep BC happy and would be future plans proof. Quite like these, although not used one. https://ecostream.org.uk/d-mvhr/

Not sure I agree fully I have an Atag A325ECX (combi) and had three showers running the other day. The only modification to the standard configuration are 1. Flow restrictor not installed 2. I have PV with immersion diverter, so have a thermal store, upstream and cold water passes through the DHW coil on its way to the combi. So will get some preheat (read point 4) 3. UFH is connected to thermal store. 4. Combi heats the thermal store to 40 degs (no real PV generated in winter). So DHW gets preheated to about 25 degs in winter.

Have to agree, everyone wants to be an engineer, some that I would not employ as a technician. Best comment during our build (by someone calling them self as a engineer) was 'why are you insulating the floor, heat rises, you are just wasting your time and money."

Try this. https://www.zerohomebills.com/product/mypv-dc-elwa-solar-pv-water-heater/

That's the wrong immersion. This is the correct one, come with it own MPPT. https://www.my-pv.com/en/products/elwa

You could use a MyPV, immersion. Designed for DC, and direct connection to a 2kW array. No switching issues.

Had a look on the intergas website and it states the boiler is in condensing mode 100% of the time.

First thing to look at, is the boiler running in condensing mode. For this to occur your return temp back into the boiler needs to be below 53 degs. The lower the better. Can you run the DHW and CH at different temperatures? Otherwise as TonyT said.

Ours isn't flat but at 12 deg. Covered in EPDM membrane. Do see some lifting in high wind as air flows between it and the underlay. But the strips are about 1m wide and are screwed down through spreader plates every 300 or so mm along the long edge, the next strip overlaps and is welded to seal. Either the new roof cover wasn't mechanical fixed correctly or if bonded not bonded correctly. Did it come with any warranty?

Thinking PIR, but if the option was there a low percentage of light all the time would be good

Have quite a long drive and approximately 2m tall retaining wall. Looking for solar powered down lighting similar to street lights. I may need to extend upwards to get lights at correct height but that ok. I really want to install solar powered only, but need decent performance in winter. Panel size shouldn't be an issue as I have loads of space on a south facing part of the hill. Anyone using anything they can recommend?