JohnMo

Have you read the manual? You should be able to set the DHW production to reheat mode, schedule mode and a combination to the two. It looks like you are in reheat mode continually, so you throwing heat almost constantly to the cylinder. You would be better heating the tank once per day to a temperature that is acceptable to your usage.

They go on to the incoming cold water, and kitchen supply normally bypasses, so you decent drinking water. Alternative are something like a combi saver. This stops scale forming and would normally go on the cold supply to a combi boiler or UVC.

I have seen 15 degs as flow temp for ufh, and there will be a 4 to 7 return temp drop, based on your flow rates. Just looked at the dreams ASHP and the default setting is 12 degs. Don't think you want it too cool otherwise you get condensation issues.

The structural calcs are normal for window to door conversation, even if the same size, the calculations would say if what's there is ok or has to be replaced. Structural engineers are usually registered to perform their own calcs and issue a certificate, which planning is happy with and gives a warranty discount. Not sure a bi fold door would add stability! If you've done this through an architect he should have know you needed structural input.

You must have a quite large house I assume. You also need to factor in the cost of filters and service costs to get the total savings and a percentage of the hardware and install costs, based on expected life span, say 20 years.

There is plenty of info on this site with reference Willis heaters, it would be best to look around and have a good read. I find the easiest way to find stuff is search through google. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=buildhub+willis+heater+site:forum.buildhub.org.uk&sxsrf=ALiCzsZxamojBzYQRLlAn3-Hb_saXJJJJg:1654722699811&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiF9uS14p74AhWVolwKHe94AiwQrQIoBHoECAkQBQ&biw=1253&bih=608&dpr=1

Did you have the mains water switched off?

Cylinder coil or heat exchanger leaking? It should be the only place where the heat pump fluids and DHW have an interaction.

Not sure there are real cost differences, radial is certainly easier to install because the diameter tends to be smaller. Branch systems need plenty of attenuators to stop cross talk.

One thing to always bear in mind with heat loss calculations is the worst OAT is only for hours or maybe a day or two, maybe 5 to 7 days a year. All the rest of the time the heat demand is lower. Have attached MCS manual, that will start you in the correct direction on sizing ASHP and buffers etc. 1. Read manual attached 2. Two situations, you and wife, you wife and others. Could you operate two cylinders, bring the second online when you have guests? Save continuous heat loss etc. 3. 2 X 250 to 300l 4? 5 maybe not 6 internal or external blinds 7 LG or Mitsubishi seem quite good from what I heard 8 could work You don't mention ventilation system? Heat-Pump-Guide.pdf

We lived overseas for a while and had Aircon in all rooms. Wife didn't like the air being blown, drove her nuts. Noise gets blanked into the background.

Hello No idea what you are asking, you may need to provide some more details.

Think you have answered your own question

Do we even have a standard protocol for car charging?

Responding to the pod cast linked to by Rishard. To answer your question, I am not saying that. The podcast, stated MVHR used 6% less energy to heat the properties, when compared to demand based ventilation (due to heat recovery). So the heating system heat input only. But MVHR used 5x the energy (electricity) to power the ventilation system (running the ventilation fans, controls etc) compared to demand based ventilation.

We also managed an A, but was suggested I install a wind turbine at an estimate cost of £15 to 25k to give an A104. No! Loads more solar would be better.

So the comparison is between demand control ventilation and MVHR within 149 passivhaus buildings. Heating, MVHR used 6% less energy to heat the properties on average than demand based ventilation. But MVHR used 5x the energy to power the ventilation system. For the same standard of air quality in the properties. A similar outcome in this other report also. Atamate_SDAR+Paper+2019+(1).pdf

Have a read https://www.thomasarmstrongconcreteblocks.co.uk/mortar-mix.html

I just measured internal walls and added 5%. Worst case you some leftovers or you need an additional sheet or two. Ended up with a mountain of offcuts and no full sheets left.

Are you adding external insulation. Fleece adds nothing to the U value. Have you specified what roof buildup you require, or are you hoping the contractor will supply what he thinks you need? Typically you should be adding 150 to 200mm exterior insulation, to give a good performance roof.

Go on the Aps store, Google or apple and download CDM wizard. Fill in all the steps and you then have a fully compliant risk evaluation. As principal contractor, anyone on site reports to you, you manage who is on site and when, a single build they should not be tripping over themselves. My build was a single trade and me on site, other than the loads I did myself and then it was me with various helpers as needed. Can I be the domestic client and principal contractor ? Yes or client your wife. Will I still need to notify HSE of a project (F10?) ? Don't believe you do, I didn't. Will I still require a construction phase plan? CDM wizard Will I have to produce RA & MS for every activity? CDM wizard Will I have to submit RAMS to someone ? No but needs to be available, CDM wizard.

All the stuff mentioned above, also look at how you operate the heating. Big thick walls take a lot of energy to heat up, if you operate the heating in short bursts all the energy goes into heating the building fabric. You may be better turning the CH flow temperature down and run the boiler for long periods, stabilise the building temperature, with a small setback at night.

Not really clear what you are doing to the roof. A warm roof typically is externally insulated. The fleece backing will add little or no additional insulation value. If your roof covering is sound, you could insulate and then add the new covering. To give a warm roof. Typically you should be looking to add 150 to 200mm of insulation. What roof buildup is each installer offering, have you asked for a specific buildup? Or just leaving it up to them to offer what they think you want?

More ports good, flexibility and don't have to use them just blank off

Several issues, other than mentioned. How would you close opening in wall when sliding doors are closed, you need to stop vermin and insects getting in. Assuming each panel is 75m thick the opening could be 150 to 225mm deep. How do you tie the external skin to the internal one? You would need to add an additional depth to that wall, as above, may start to look strange. Other than that sounds great, but expensive, and full of issues.