JohnMo

If you are using a builder, you know, do what he is used to, no paid for learning curve or expensive mess ups If he does block work go with that...

Try to operate the UFH as a single zone, from a single stat. You need a low hysteresis stat for UFH, so something like a Salus SQ610, and WQ610 for the radiators. Use Salus THB23030 Auto Balancing Actuators and a generic UFH wiring centre for wired stats or Salus one if you are for RF thermostats. You will need a mixing valve and pump on the manifold to separate the radiator flow from UFH flow. Not sure of you insulation standards, but best to get a mixer that can go below 30 degs to give you more flexibility with flow temperature. Wouldn't waste too much money on UFH control, as you need to operate at low temperatures for lengthy periods.

Our roof is way less complicated, but the truss manufacturing company produced cad drawings, based on the the original structural engineering ones, and produced a full set of structural calculations etc, these were then sent to my own structural engineer for sign off and approval and added to the structural engineering certificate.

BWT AC002200 Combi Care, or Combi mate. both work the same way AquaDial Combi-Care works by introducing a very small amount of food grade polyphosphate into the water feed, sequestering the calcium in the water and preventing it from forming scale on the heat exchanger. Offers protection from both limescale and corrosion Suitable for whole house and single appliance protection Flow rates up to 54 litres per minute Easy change cartridge Cartridges have a 12 month life Can be used in soft water areas as a corrosion inhibitor Width: 120mm, Length: 215mm Max Flow Rate: 0.9 l/s

That what our EPC said we should be using around 5.5kWh.

Most inverters are configured to limit or zero export. You need a G100 compliant inverter.

Have you read the manual? You should be able to set the DHW production to reheat mode, schedule mode and a combination to the two. It looks like you are in reheat mode continually, so you throwing heat almost constantly to the cylinder. You would be better heating the tank once per day to a temperature that is acceptable to your usage.

They go on to the incoming cold water, and kitchen supply normally bypasses, so you decent drinking water. Alternative are something like a combi saver. This stops scale forming and would normally go on the cold supply to a combi boiler or UVC.

I have seen 15 degs as flow temp for ufh, and there will be a 4 to 7 return temp drop, based on your flow rates. Just looked at the dreams ASHP and the default setting is 12 degs. Don't think you want it too cool otherwise you get condensation issues.

The structural calcs are normal for window to door conversation, even if the same size, the calculations would say if what's there is ok or has to be replaced. Structural engineers are usually registered to perform their own calcs and issue a certificate, which planning is happy with and gives a warranty discount. Not sure a bi fold door would add stability! If you've done this through an architect he should have know you needed structural input.

You must have a quite large house I assume. You also need to factor in the cost of filters and service costs to get the total savings and a percentage of the hardware and install costs, based on expected life span, say 20 years.

There is plenty of info on this site with reference Willis heaters, it would be best to look around and have a good read. I find the easiest way to find stuff is search through google. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=buildhub+willis+heater+site:forum.buildhub.org.uk&sxsrf=ALiCzsZxamojBzYQRLlAn3-Hb_saXJJJJg:1654722699811&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiF9uS14p74AhWVolwKHe94AiwQrQIoBHoECAkQBQ&biw=1253&bih=608&dpr=1

Did you have the mains water switched off?

Cylinder coil or heat exchanger leaking? It should be the only place where the heat pump fluids and DHW have an interaction.

Not sure there are real cost differences, radial is certainly easier to install because the diameter tends to be smaller. Branch systems need plenty of attenuators to stop cross talk.

One thing to always bear in mind with heat loss calculations is the worst OAT is only for hours or maybe a day or two, maybe 5 to 7 days a year. All the rest of the time the heat demand is lower. Have attached MCS manual, that will start you in the correct direction on sizing ASHP and buffers etc. 1. Read manual attached 2. Two situations, you and wife, you wife and others. Could you operate two cylinders, bring the second online when you have guests? Save continuous heat loss etc. 3. 2 X 250 to 300l 4? 5 maybe not 6 internal or external blinds 7 LG or Mitsubishi seem quite good from what I heard 8 could work You don't mention ventilation system? Heat-Pump-Guide.pdf

We lived overseas for a while and had Aircon in all rooms. Wife didn't like the air being blown, drove her nuts. Noise gets blanked into the background.

Hello No idea what you are asking, you may need to provide some more details.

Think you have answered your own question

Do we even have a standard protocol for car charging?

Responding to the pod cast linked to by Rishard. To answer your question, I am not saying that. The podcast, stated MVHR used 6% less energy to heat the properties, when compared to demand based ventilation (due to heat recovery). So the heating system heat input only. But MVHR used 5x the energy (electricity) to power the ventilation system (running the ventilation fans, controls etc) compared to demand based ventilation.

We also managed an A, but was suggested I install a wind turbine at an estimate cost of £15 to 25k to give an A104. No! Loads more solar would be better.

So the comparison is between demand control ventilation and MVHR within 149 passivhaus buildings. Heating, MVHR used 6% less energy to heat the properties on average than demand based ventilation. But MVHR used 5x the energy to power the ventilation system. For the same standard of air quality in the properties. A similar outcome in this other report also. Atamate_SDAR+Paper+2019+(1).pdf

Have a read https://www.thomasarmstrongconcreteblocks.co.uk/mortar-mix.html

I just measured internal walls and added 5%. Worst case you some leftovers or you need an additional sheet or two. Ended up with a mountain of offcuts and no full sheets left.