JohnMo

All heat pump have one inlet and one outlet. The only way it can supply two different temperatures at the same time is with mixing valves. So at any given time the output will fixed to give the highest temp required. Any heat pump can do as many or few zones as you like mostly via external controls. All the above impact CoP - but not in a good way. For efficiency?

I am thinking about reducing the flow rates to the floor loops. A quick calculation shows between the summer house and the house House manifold flow 12.4 Summer house manifold flow 2. With ASHP dT, I am pushing around 5.2kW into the floor. But have a peak demand around 3.5kW. This should allow the ASHP to run at a lower output and cycle less.

For a given airflow the further the extractor is away from the hob, the more rubbish it performs. Would suspect a ceiling extractor to pretty rubbish at removing smells etc. Your MVHR will do an ok job with steam without the additional extractor. Just looked at the spec, that is really noisy, and pretty expensive.

Welcome to the forum I would break this out into a separate question in an appropriate area on the forum. Otherwise the question will just get missed.

Really would not bother with UFH with so little insulation. Buy some nice radiators and have way lower heating bills.

I too have just finished watching, also on the PV theme, the panels and installers came from overseas, so not sure its an MCS install, so is he selling excess electric or giving it away?

Just been taking a look on the battery stats and heat pump energy usage. GivTCP set the charge last night to 62% (my defined min for this time of year), 00:30 to 07:30 is E7 period, so during that period the battery does not contribute to the house, everything is taken from the grid. Has been a pretty good solar day, 12.9kWh generated. During the E7 period, we imported 17.55kWh, for charging the battery, running heat pump and other house stuff (MVHR, treatment plant compressor etc). By 2pm the battery is at 100%, solar generation has almost stopped by 3pm and battery starts to discharge to the house. We exported 3.5kWh (this will go to hot water next week) From the ASHP electric meter (last 24hrs) we used 15kWh (last night down to zero, today although sunny didn't go over 6 deg), currently 2 degs outside. Heat pump has just ran for 2.5hrs straight with 2 defrost cycles. After cooking our tea, we have 62% battery still remaining.

It does sunset today 16:09, by 5pm it was black outside.

If you search in Google for home assistant AND GivTCP, there are some good videos. They talk you through it all. You need the cloud up and running for the GivTCP to work. I ended up getting the internet via an ethernet cable, which was more stable.

Sky stayed clear this afternoon also, so a good day to show, the effect of yield v irradiance from inclination angle etc. 6 hours period, very vertical at start and end of solar day.

Your curve is all wrong and not easy to manipulate for small changes in temp. Your lowest flow temp needs to start at a meaningful temperature, you are unlikely to have the heating on above 15 so start there. Same with the end point. So start the slope at 15 deg OAT and finish at say -5. Start flow temp say 28 deg, end flow temp say 35 or 40. Now get a pen and paper. Set all the thermostat out the way say 23 degs. Set the heating on 24/7. With pen and paper monitor outside temp and house temp over the next couple of days see what's happening to room temps. If house is getting colder when it's getting colder outside increase the end point of curve up one degree at a time. If gets too warm decrease the end point. It's a bit of faff but worth doing. This will give you a decent baseline to work from.

Do everyone a favour and only post the same question once, not double dipping.

Obvious question - why? Do really mean 2 phase or just two meters so you can have 200A available? So 44kW

This isn't the report I read but very similar 7389-effects-cycling-heat-pump-performance.pdf

Nice blue sky today, so an example of the solar on a day like today. Will now flat line at current generation until about 2.30 and start dropping of a cliffe.

It was from a government sponsored report, no longer have the file, basically gas boiler and ASHP are around 10 mins, GSHP, 5 mins. Meaningful run time when you take into account the heat input required to heat the metal work pipes and a slug of water enough to transfer heat to the house. An immersion heater isn't the same at all. Ignore or do what you will with it, I basically made sure, I could achieve a run time of 10 mins or more without a buffer.

Volume not really relevant to your question, but floor area is.

I am producing 211W at the moment 9am, in 2 hours will be producing close to 3kW to 4kW. By 3.30pm producing nothing as the sun will have sunk too far. This time in the summer 3 to 4 kW, in two hours time 5 to 6kW and carry on production until between 8 to 9pm.

The figure of 4x your consumption sounds huge amounts of generation, but in reality it's not really. Just did a quick check of my generation capacity over a year, a mix of vertical and 45 deg modules should give me 4500kWh, if they were all due south and at 45 deg closer to 6000kWh, so already pretty close to the goal on this project. Trouble is most of the generator capacity is in the summer, still rubbish in the winter. So likely he will be still importing energy during the winter. Regardless of what the owner or program says. Haven't got far into the program, wonder if it mentions G99? Or anything about DNO costs?

Starting get cold nights, was down to -1 last night. So using the H&T sensor to track temperature inside the house. The house temperature gradient is a downward slope, so to compensate, have increase the end of the WC curve up 0.2 degrees. We have another cold night, tonight expecting it to be -2, so will see if the change has made any difference. Also with colder temperatures the run time of ASHP has increased. Now running just over an hour at a time overnight, with around 30 mins off.

What is your floor area and how many bathrooms, utility areas?

You are reading hotel, hospital, care home, etc, not a house. As said bad idea if hot water circulation that way, you would need deep pockets and suitable mixers prior to every tap. Get a secondary circulation pump with in built time and thermostat. If you are having a mixer valve on the hot water outlet, you need to arrange so as to allow cold water to enter the system also.

Part way through it, stupid huge, let's make daft angles everywhere and no surprises, so far behind schedule. Also surprised by how thin the insulation is on the ICF parts of the house.

Basically produced a whole 2kWh. But was enough for the heat pump stayed off for 4 hours from midday until around 4pm. Currently set to run 24/7 on WC.

Started filling with water, and realised why I hate compression fittings. They never seem to seal first time. One of the joints has been made about 5 times. Lucky it was on the heating coil part so not so much to drain down. Think they must just be piss poor quality. Eventually got them to seal with a liberal application of liquid PTFE over the olive.