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JohnMo

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Everything posted by JohnMo

  1. JohnMo
    No, but I do have space on the frame for another panel or tubes. Sun's out this afternoon, so will have a look later to check how many kWh I produced today. By way of compensation my 22 PV panels are doing 2.5 to 3kW. So for the size ST is quite effective.
  2. JohnMo
    I had a similar issue on a motorcycle once, had to change the brake switch in the end. Was fine with a normal bulb.
  3. JohnMo
    Is this blatant advertising?
  4. JohnMo
    eBay is your friend, normally lots of stuff there and can be at very sensible prices. If you are going evacuated tube, you need a nice big bulb size. Whether evac tube is really any better than flat plate in the UK, is a bit questionable.
  5. JohnMo
    Not made any changes so far. It's at 45 degrees. But production window seems to be quite small, about 3 hours as to many tree in the way. Solar startup temperature is 8 degrees above heat pump return temp, by the time the panel water has gone through plate exchanger, its running with a dT of 3 to 4 between the PHE and ASHP return temp. Have heating side pump, which is between CCT and PHE running at min speed (0.19m3/h) and according to the heat meter it's delivering around 0.8kW in to the heating system.
  6. JohnMo
    Indirect pretty simple change out, just need the feed pipes and zone valve. Pretty easy for a plumber.
  7. JohnMo
    Could you put a pipe stat on the pipe as it comes back towards the cylinder, to cut and start the power to the pump? Then use the pumps time clock or an external one?
  8. JohnMo
    Sleep on it, something will pop into your head, when you are not thinking about it.
  9. JohnMo
    Obvious question, can you move the battery into the area as the gateway?
  10. JohnMo
    The cable between battery and Inverter (all one integrated unit) and gateway is AC, nothing to do with PV or DC. PV ties in to the gateway again in AC. The battery/inverter kicks out up to around 7kW. It takes a charge of 6kW.
  11. JohnMo
    You should be sloping back to the terminal or towards the MVHR unit. There should be no collection of water. Even if there was, the amount air travelling down the pipe would soon mop it up. Legionella growth is zero below 20.
  12. JohnMo
    I did try that, but the CoP hit not worth it. Have a big enough battery and PV when sun's out. So now just run a simple WC regime.
  13. JohnMo
    Looks nice. See you have two supports for the balcony section, increase to four and the huge expense to cantilever vanishes. Not sure how you get passivhaus energy performance with all that glazing? You are also going to need to add plenty of additional insulation to the sip to get to passivhaus standards, so somewhat defeats there advantage. Although you have an overhang for shading watch out for low eastern and western sun, as it will find its way under and overheat the house, if you don't plan well.
  14. JohnMo
    Who are you with to that price. My E7 is 0.1516 per kWh.
  15. JohnMo
    As I said, very complex. Found myself doing this sort of thing, when I first built the house, slowly undid it all when I started seeing the bills - KISS wins every time.
  16. JohnMo
    If anyone say anything buy a big bag of gravel and build up ground level. Who is likely to be measuring?
  17. JohnMo
    Order really depends on if you have a service void between vapour barrier and plasterboard. The above sounds like you don't. Assume as you have plumbing, toilets etc you are subject to building regs as a minimum. I would concider mineral wool instead of PIR for between timber, much easier to install, something like Frametherm 32. Did all my wiring behind the vapour barrier on and through the studs. Then just brought the cables through barrier where needed and sealed up. I made the external membrane airtight, with limited penetrations in that and taped to the DPM. Not sure I would do external wiring, does who ever is signing off, agree with that?
  18. JohnMo
    You can limit the watts going between the battery and the gateway, your install can set hard stops also, which the end user cannot change later. Discharge and charge power are all setting that can be changed. If this simplified the install.
  19. JohnMo
    How is the ashp plumbed into the heating system, do you have a buffer for example? Does your heatmiser control zone valves and/or a call for heat?
  20. JohnMo
    Are you sure you need the install to be so complicated? Its complect just reading it, let alone installing and getting to work efficiently.
  21. JohnMo
    Sorry no. How far away is the battery from the gateway?
  22. JohnMo
    Datasheet datasheet---all-in-one--june-2023- (1).pdf
  23. JohnMo
    The 6mm2 goes between battery and and the gateway. Max current is 32A All in One Installation Manual.pdf
  24. JohnMo
    I used Tectite push fits, for the copper pipe - nice bend radius and you can pick them up from Toolstation or Screwfix. I also made use of Hep2O for the longer runs My run to the cylinder is quite long and in 22mm (existing from gas boiler to UFH not used for UFH with heat pump), I also have a secondary pump installed in the return line and powered at the same time as the three way valve. Works a treat.
  25. JohnMo
    Our floor build similar to yours, but with an additional 150 to 200mm concrete below the PIR. Ours is 192m2, 25m long, we had 1 crack, with no expansion joints. If you are pouring this time of the year the curing time should be quite slow, so cracks less likely.
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