JohnMo

As your happy with oil heating - other makes available https://www.toolstation.com/sip-fireball-74xrdt-infrared-diesel-heater/p47425?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4Y-sBhC6ARIsAGXF1g5RA5zKw194gJVp01XYL2z1j0OMgqsCvvey_aE2XuApaJoETvk9YJIaAki2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Couldn't believe our local news (a few weeks ago),first article was new drilling licence here and others there, all for energy security blah, blah. Second article was Grangemouth, no mention of previous article just moved on to football. Politicians and reporters, all rubbish. But at least they can all fly around the world in empty aircraft, to talk about global warming, and try to take out any mention of fossil fuel reductions. Does make you wonder.

Soon with Grangemouth closing down its processing plant, most of the UK diesel, heating fuel oil and petrol, will all be processed overseas and imported as ready to use products. So much for the excuse to allow more drilling and it giving fuel security.

Just give them what they want see/hear on any drawings. No more, no less, then do what you feel fit. If anyone says anything later, just say that's still to be done, a job for later.

Obviously not looking much further than their nose end. Convection, conduction, and radiation are principal mechanisms for heat transfer, all are in play within a house. Conduction is the transfer of heat by two objects that are in direct contact with one another. It occurs when in contact with a cold or warm object. For example, your floor will try to conduct to the cold ground below it Convection is the transfer of heat to the air surrounding an object. The warmed air rises away and is replaced by cooler air that is subsequently heated. This is the only thing your supplier wanted to talk about. Radiation is the transfer of heat via infrared waves. This occurs between any two objects when their temperatures differ. A radiator can warm a room via radiant heat. On a sunny day, the radiation from the sun warms the skin.

In county there is more land per property than city, so less neighbours to annoy. But they just aren't noisy unless running flat out - I have to be close to mine to realise it's running. They must be big units running flat out. Or installed so the noise is bouncing off things.

Wrap the thread in PTFE tape. Do around 15 time around, sounds a lot, but does work. Wrap clockwise, and run your fingers around the PTFE tape to smooth it off and push it into the threads. Or Screwfix do a liquid PTFE, apply tighten and then leave while you have a coffee to harden.

First no one is saying swop out a perfectly serviceable boiler. I swopped mine out because I wanted cooling in the house, a boiler cannot do that! My cost were just over £2000 for the heat pump and cylinder, so payback for the heating side is 4 to 5 years. But that really isn't the important but, I have cooling, and I am doing my bit for the planet, so win, win Battery with my solar will make most my spring/summer/autumn electric free save another £4 per day. So overall we saving are around £1000 per year. There's always a back period. But overall spent way less than a decent used car, which just costs you money, you never get back.

Exactly my thoughts, just put a bit better that I was going to write.

Trouble with Facebook reviews you have zero idea what they wanted as a client. Are they real - who knows. First you need to be able to talk with the architect, bounce your and his ideas off each other, freely. I sacked my first architect, because they were closed off as far as design went (all in one package), they saw everything I wanted, a waste of time, and no value etc, so stand up row later and we went different ways. Second one completely different, he was an architect and that's all he did, not interested in project management, which suited me fine. However the above wasted 6 months. If you want standard no frills to building regs only, all in one may be ok, anything different, any bells whistles, move to someone else. If you see any reviews where there is mention of them being difficult or closed off, take that as a clear warning to move on. Option 3 looks fine, gut feeling says a lot. But small firm could be pulled in all directions, which is ok as long as you build this in to expectations on timescales.

So everything did work👍 Now it doesn't, so step through the system logically. Upstairs is fine, you are heating the cylinder, so basically nothing wrong with boiler producing heat. I notice the UFH circulation pump is running, if the circulation pump is connected to the wiring centre, it shows the wiring centre is receiving a signal to heat floor. The wiring centre should also open the zone valve (white actuator on second photo - bottom left) does this open and close as required ? Check by selecting all thermostats lower than room temp, valve should close and pump go off. Then select a room thermostat higher to check opening is no issue, pump should start and zone valve open While doing the above the small actuators on the manifold should open and close, so verify, led flashing and slight noise. If all the above are ok the only other thing is the system is mixer valve and it has stuck in a position, you may or may not be able to strip the mixer and clean. If can't you will need to get a new mixer

You drop the boiler flow temp on the boiler controller or at the boiler it's self. There should be buttons to push or knob to turn at the boiler

Why don't you drop the flow temp, this will be more likely to be in the condensing range of the boiler (saving on gas usage) and will make it easier to adjust, as everything will heat up slower.

It's not that black and white. When you start using TOU tariffs, and have a battery the costs to swing towards ASHP. Comparing my usage, gas and electric, to electric only, during the heating season I am around £2 a day cheaper on average with the ASHP. ASHP CoP isn't a constant, it changes with outside air temp. A CoP of less than 3 can be seen when it's -5, but you can also see a CoP of 5 to 6 at 12 degs when its 12 degs outside. So the case for an ASHP is actually way stronger for places that get mild winters. The SCoP should average out at around 4 or better. If it doesn't your install needs a look at, some fine tuning or the owner isn't operating it effectively.

Should have written 'give a flow temperature much above 35.' Your main issue is the delta T (difference between flow and return) should be closer to 7, not 20 degs that you have. 65 deg flow temp is just wrong it should be well below this. How are you actually heating the floor? Timings etc. What are your rooms temps with the floor at 27 degs? What is your floor buildup? You don't need to flush through to get air out then Makes no sense to me either.

Have a read at the bottom of the this thread two resisters and a relay is all you need to to convert on/off control to resistance

Why would you bother with the expense of a heat pump, with that usage? Sounds like an ideal candidate for IR heating

When you insulate between floors you don't full fill, you part fill with maybe 50mm of insulation. It's there to the drum effect. Who is saying you have to add accoustic insulation?

How do you safely derate the circuit, what stops the wife or future owner plugging a 3kW kettle or hair dryer? What rules mean is you have to install bigger cables, not put a sticker (for example) on an outlet. Just move the majority of cable to above or below the insulation, then it's not insulated.

If that's the case you need to insulate and do more air tightness work. I'm at nearer to 200m2 and using a 6kW ashp and it's really is too big. I would say a usable capacity of battery of around 15kWh. Then in winter you can fully charge on cheap rate and get most your days energy on cheap rate. I have 6.6kW of PV and most days in winter get very little electric from it.

It interesting that the installer(s) had no clue that when running WC you set and run in the mist kart 24/7, with a small set back at night. Trying to get the WC to function with an on period of 7 hrs out of 24 just doesn't work, unless you bring the curve line up by offsetting it. But with opentherm boiler controls, a readily available technology and nearly all houses have radiators as opposed to UFH, would a simple regulation change to insist heat pumps are opentherm equipped, ensure an easy setup. A simple modulating load compensation thermostat installed in a suitable location, which then modulates flow temperature as required, based on internal house temperature. If customer wants it warmer they turn up the dial - the thermostat does the rest. No return call outs to fiddle with compensation curves.

Simplified sketch, also just noticed you can remove the pump prior to CCT (close coupled tees) if your heat pump has its own circulation pump and is a suitable size.

@Roger440 This is how my gas boiler does (did) weather compensation, all pre programmed for any house https://www.atagheating.co.uk/knowledge/external-controls-weather-compensation No reason, why other manufacturers cannot do the same, including heat pumps

A quick update 27 October 2023 to today. Including the last cold snap where we had temperatures down to -7, our total electric bill is on average 34.4% cheaper being on E7 compared to standard rate. To make these saving is only possible with the battery, it being charged on cheap rate. Most the period our heat pump was running on WC 24/7. Had a couple of mild days and did night-time floor charging and the saving was 43%, with no day rate electric being used. Comparison includes all heating, DHW heating and all other normal electricity usage. Happy so far

The more I look at it, I would split into two systems. Gas boiler as a backup to the solar for heating domestic hot water and heat star unit. Leave the ASHP to do the pool and UFH all year round. Go directly from ASHP to pool HE, and use close coupled tees from the supply line to the UFH pumps and mixers - the flow would come off this line and the return would also go the same line. No need for the NRG unit. Follow the layout as attached CCT WORCESTER BOSCH.pdf