eniacs

Thanks Joth, yes that is my problem. The bedrooms are too warm in all but the coldest months. Heavy insulation and low response times mean that the only way is to heat the house almost constantly and then cool the bedrooms when required. I should have done insulation in the floors but didnt think i would need it. The heating and cooling wont last long, mid april ish we will stop heating at all. Then the ecodan will be on cooling the whole house until september at least i expect. What is the ecodan modbus interface?! I am a machine programmer so could make some outside controls but time is always an issue. I also have now found that cooling times can be set in the menu. They must have been hidden when i looked prior to starting the cooling mode.

Just starting to use the cooling feature of the ecodan and would like really to set say cooling all night till say 5am, then heating for the morning for a few hours then cooling in the afternoon to remove the heat and then heating in the evening to the living rooms then onto cooling again for the bedrooms overnight. However this is not possible to set i dont think via the FTC6 controller. Has anyone seen/found an alternative? Thanks.

See photos. The gismo is a water flow meter for a heat pump. It has the same fitting as a water meter would do - 1 inch bspp plastic threads. I've bought unions which use a fibre washer and these seem to sit ok and look like it will seal. The problem is the unions came with a 3/4inch bspp male thread. I've bought a BSPP female to 28mm compression fitting, but there doesnt appear to be anywhere for a washer to go, so how on earth can I seal this? Or have I bought the wrong fitting? Note - I've already destroyed 1 flow meter getting this wrong... Thanks

Absolutely this. The best form of heating is insulation. Insulate your house until the heating system becomes small and unimportant...

Twist your maths checks out. Im just parroting what ecodan say for their heat pumps. It may be they are limited by their heat exchangers? Or is it their experience determining that flow rates like that arent possible? I dont know. What do other manufacturers say for the primary piping sizes i wonder? I did think you could fit a larger unit, and it would just modulate to a lower power as soon as it saw the flow rate it was getting.

I have the same heat pump. I see this sort of loss when it starts to do a tank heating cycle. The 28mm pipework holds a lot of water that has after some time dropped to a low temperature. When a tank heating cycle is called for, the first thing that happens is the tank temp drops a lot as this cold water circulates through the tank, stealing its heat. Is it this? It looks like a few minutes later the flow temps jump and the tank is reheating.

Yes i would pick around 8.5kw as if the manufacturers are correct - which presumably they are, then 35 deg water cannot flow 11kw in a 28mm pipe. Repiping everything and new rads were a significant hassle. However the primary pipework and internal parts of the system (pump/electronics etc) were larger and more work than i first thought. In option 1, why not just replace the system with 1 large heat pump. Virtually all heat pumps do 35deg or 55deg. The only change it looks like is you would need an hour or 2 somwhere to heat the hot water

I just DIY'd a heat pump install and I wouldn't recommend it for anyone but the hardiest of DIY'ers. I have a similar setup to you, however I have a dedicated pool heat pump. I refitted all my radiators and all new piping so it was very involved. One thing to note, I have an 8.5kw heat pump and the manufacturers specified 28mm, for their next size up (11kw) they specify 35mm. So the sizes you are proposing may require larger piping than you expect.

They have 2 speed settings, 1 is quiet, 1 is audible. But they also have an auto setting which i prefer, when the temp is low, the fan is fast and then slows a lot as it approaches the set point. Think this will be the best setting, i dont it being audible if its cold in the room. I used tectite copper push fit for most of it, with plastic push fit where necesary. The 28mm was all copper though and there were a couple places i couldnt use 90deg's. God knows how much copper ive put in. Theres a small mountian of the old stuff to take to the scrapper!

Imported from italy... heating/cooling and good ratings and good quality. Got stung for VAT twice though and high delivery cost. See here: Theres photos of my units further down that page.

Sorry, its a monoblock R32 mitsu unit. I'd agree its simple enough, but the pipes are massive and take up a lot of space. This was for a 8.5kw unit, if i had to get the 11kw unit (i was originally going for this one) the primary pipework would have been 35mm. This just seems ludicrously large and somthing local plumbers just dont do. I asked 3 plumbers i know to borrow their 28mm pipe bender, all said theyve not needed one that size! Ah i mean in terms of boilers etc, nothing else does heating/cooling/hot water in one box. I originally started this journey wanting air con in the house!

Over the past month or so I've completed the DIY install of my heat pump. I enjoy a project and I've been looking at heat pumps since around 2010. I have tried to minimise costs, however some costs were much higher than i had planned. Not sure really what this post is about, perhaps i just wanted to vent and no one around me understands. Costs: Radiators: £4k Heat pump: £600 outdoor unit, £750 flow controller, £400 tank Parts: £3k (estimated – includes pump, piping, insulation fixings etc) - this may be a conservative estimate. Copper and its fittings add up a lot! Notes: Piping – I followed manufacturers instructions and used 28mm for main piping. This has been an expensive faff as fittings/pipes and tools all seem hard to come by and aren’t stocked by local stockists. We needed a 28mm pipe bender and this had to be delivered from 120 miles away as no one local had one. Most fittings aren’t in stock locally so had to be next delivery. Space considerations: The indoor unit is massive taking up a lot of inside space. We will build a wardrobe around it and use it to keep clothes dry etc, but in reality this is a loss of interior space. Usability: The system itself is complicated (Mitsubishi) normal people will simply not understand it and either use it wrong or need help. Now running the system is great, producing hot water/heating/cooling. No other system out there can do all these things. I feel generally this system is underdeveloped, like a development model. The final product to be released after a few people have tried it.. The combi boilers available are small and produce everything a large house needs in the size of a kitchen cupboard. I don’t think the outdoor unit size is too important though, but the indoor space lost is not going to be practical for a lot of UK homes. Most of the kit could be smaller, the Mitsubishi FTC6 wiring centre has so many inputs and outputs, most of which wont be used and the ones that are used could have been in the outdoor unit. How do others find their heat pumps?

Thanks so much. Figured out the problem is I've switched off SW2-8 as i dont have a flow sensor. This means that the unit is looking for a non R32 HP and so it failed on no comms! Mitsubishi were pretty helpful with this

Can anyone help with a photo of their FTC6 DIP switch settings please? I cannot get mine to work with the outdoor unit, unless i have Sw4-1 and 2 on. Which seems like its making it think there is an outdoor unit, even though it isnt communicating. Once those 2 switches are set, FTC6 appears happy, switches the pump and valve, but the heat pump never actually starts! A frustrating unit. It is possible ive missed somthing or even that the outdoor unit is faulty... But im hoping its a setting.

No it wouldnt. Your heat pump cant consume 28kwh in 3 hours, not unless it heats a block of 15 flats. The compressor will be 2-3kw max so max for 3 hours would be 9kwh. There must be a measurement error somwhere