JohnMo

Never had an issue with Flexi hoses. The only way they burst is if you get them all twisted and buckled. If flexible hoses are bad, I pity every car on the road as they have tonnes of them, for fuel, brakes, and air. Stop listening to plonkers on social media, that possibly don't know any better, and possibly caused there own issues in the first place.

You possibly get more from webuyanycar etc. On a recent car purchase they gave me £4500 more than I would have got trading in.

Think whatever the individual does will help something, but it is really small and possibly insignificant in the grand scheme of things. The steel plant that is closing in Wales is going to reduce CO2 emmisions of the UK by around 20% on its own. One plant!

On both counts - This is not compliant the manufacturer instructions for the UVC and not compliant with G3 regulations. Is he certified to install and certify, ask him for his certificate and then report him to the certifying body (that will be on his certificate card that he is obliged to show you). Your installer is supposed to do static and dynamic pressure tests, it has to meet a minimum threshold for both to allow an UVC install to go ahead as a suitable solution. Not sure I would trust that fitting copper to lead either. This is how your cylinder should be configured. You have should have two pipes going to either individual or one combined tundish one from the combined valve and one from over pressure relief. Other comments the vertical pipe from the top of the cylinder will leach heat away from the cylinder at a high rate. To fix this do a 90 Deg at the cylinder connector, come the cylinder edge and the go down a min of 150mm the go back up. This is called a heat trap.

Especially if, as the topic says, you start to use it to backflow into the grid and the electricity wholesalers cycle the battery a couple of times per day. No one would to buy one of those cars 10 years old. Really makes a 10 year old EV a scrapper value wise.

Own well for drinking water Own sewage system Plug in Generator with change over switch, big enough to run hob, water lift pump, sewage system, ASHP, and ventilation - not necessarily at the same time. Battery that can supply whole house, not just the odd circuit. We had a few hours of power cut last night, all I noticed was a slightly flicker of the lights.

Time normal cylinder heating after you are likely to get past the excess PV period, so late afternoon, then if you haven't got the cylinder hot, your normal heating process will take over. Set your immersion at a temperature you are comfortable with.

Still not understanding how your heat loss is that big, even with MCS ignoring heat recovery. Your ventilation heat loss will be in the region of 1800W ignoring heat recovery. Are you sure they are using the correct U values for you walls, floor, roof and windows and doors. Or using a stupid design temperature. Not sure the heat loss you are being quoted, would meet current min building regs?

Life is to short - move. I even tried to move to EDF at one point and that became to difficult, the saving I could have made were not worth it.

Also remember this is mostly summer generation, Dec and Jan will produce next to nothing, even if the sun is out the production day is very short. During most of Nov to Feb your heating will not come via anything your PV produces, it may offset a little. If you are using a ToU tariff (E7 etc) you really need to utilise that period well.

Trouble with all these systems is flow temperature required. On the blurb on the web page it states flow temperature between 35 and 55. I used a similar sort of system in a very well insulated garden room, it needed a flow of 35 on a 12 deg day and room still wasn't that hot. At zero I tried 45 and the room was at 16 degs after 24 hrs. Absolutely rubbish. There is just to much thermal resistance in the system to work well at low flow temps. I would just steer clear all together. I ended up fitting a fan coil and now 33-35 degrees will happily heat to 22 when -5 outside. Insulation insulation and more insulation required if on a ground floor. Look at a dry screed (pug or biscuit) system. You can DIY and everything and can come from your favourite builders merchant.

I would be sceptical especially if it exceeds what the manufacture states. But saying that if you are only flowing a temp of say 30 or less, most of the time with a target of 16 for the house, the heat pump will not have much work to do. The days have been sunny also (now and then) so if you are getting some solar gain also, the circulation pump is possibly on and the ASHP compressor doing no additional work. But the heat pump recording something going on. Its a good indication that things are working as they should.

Our 195m2 big vaulted ceiling in every room and lots of glazing bungalow, uses around 3.5kW at -9, so yours must be huge, or the heat loss calcs are wrong.

Heat pump cylinder size guide

Yes, but you need a calibrated, with supporting certificate (that is in date), flow meter.

I rang mine and they basically said not interested. If covered by other work that required planning permission, they are interested, otherwise not interested, get on with it. So I would think most councils will be the same. Unlikely they log what properties have an UVC unless otherwise stated in a planning application. Basically I have 2 certs "water bylaws" it states I should join a self certification scheme, where as, the "G3" cert says nothing. You would think it would be the way round. Not sure they know which way is up, so why should anyone else? Think like a lot of conversation on here, it turns out the 1% (or less) of people try to go the right thing, while rest do what they want, even the professionals, than should know better.

Hi, sounds like lots of working going on. I would split your questions into different topics each in it's relevant section, otherwise you will not get many answers that make much sense in a weeks time. So take all those questions not related to MVHR and repost. So looking at the ventilation, no ventilation gets you away from opening windows when it's hot. Flow rates are not sufficient for that. It will help a little but generally not much. There are three plausible ventilation strategies. MVHR - mechanical ventilation for supply and extract with heat recovery. This runs all the time and is an addition to any leaks within the building fabric. To get the best from this system the house needs a reasonable airtightness. Filters can be expensive depending on unit used. MEV - mechanical extract only. Trickle vents in windows or walls. Would only use this system if trickle vents are humidity controlled AND extract points are also humidity controlled AND fan speed is controlled on a constant pressure. Easier to install than MVHR, one fan instead of two. Only runs when needed so heat loss is minimal. No filters to replace in theory, but would install with filter socks in extract points. dMEV, easiest to implement, similar to above but each wet room has its own fan. Inlet devises as per MEV. No filters All the above require internal door undercuts of around 10mm to proved a ventilation route if doors are closed. All will give good humidity control, should be near silent in operation. All have a compromise cost/difficulty of install, weighted against ongoing running cost (electric and filter) and heating cost.

Not sure how you do your house ventilation, but we barely use our hob extractor anymore with MVHR (we don't fry much either), there is zero need, the MVHR extract in the kitchen seems to do a good enough job on its own. Just have a filter sock in the extract terminal for the MVHR to catch anything, before it gets into the duct.

They don't make it easy. The Manual to Building Regs states "Some types of work may be done by a ‘competent person’. This is a term for an installer who works under a scheme that has been approved by the government." Then a table showing work process.

We have a Greenwood dMEV fan (set to minimum speed and is inaudible) in our summer house, outside it's currently 4 degs and 79% humidity. Inside it's 19 degs and 39% humidity. Over the last month the max humidity inside hit 44%. For comparison in our house we have MVHR and over the same period the max humidity in the house hit 46%. So overall pretty similar. To lower the humidity in a building you need a fresh flow of air and heat. You need both together, doing one without the other humidity stays high.

G3 regs state 3.10 Hot water storage systems should be designed and installed in accordance with BS6700:2006 + A1:2009 Specification for design, installation, testing and maintenance of services supplying water for domestic use within buildings and their curtilages BS6700:2006 states 4.1 Maintenance procedures Maintenance procedures shall be adopted to maintain the performance of the installation at the level specified in this standard for the original design and installation. Unvented hot water storage installations shall be maintained and repaired only by a competent person (see building regulations A.1). 4.7 Vessels under pressure Any vessels storing water under pressure shall be inspected for indications of deterioration no less frequently than at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer. Expansion vessels shall be inspected for indications of deterioration in strength and the gas pressure measured no less frequently than at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer. If the gas pressure is not within the limits specified for the application it shall be adjusted to within those limits.

The main driver is cylinder warranty - some cut and pastes below. warranty 1. The unit has been installed and commissioned in accordance with our installation and service instructions and all relevant codes of practice and regulations in force at the time of installation. Maintenance periods will vary for many reasons. Ideal Boilers recommend a maximum of 12 months... On completion of the work, fill in the Benchmark Service Record at towards the back of this manual.

They need to really take account of room size, a room with a shower is still a room with a shower, big or small. But extract is doing several jobs, clearing excess humidity at source and dragging moisture from other rooms like your bedroom when you are sleeping.

No, wet rooms have water in them, like a sink, shower etc. the solution above give ventilation across the room when required. The trickle vent opens and the dMEV fan which run all the time provide cross ventilation. Ideally you will have 10mm undercut at the doorways so air is free to flow when doors are closed. As above

The one that @HughF found and is using, but not sure what make or model, but he seems happy with them.