JohnMo

I was in the same position and never got a warranty. Really couldn't see the point of paying out a couple of grand, to line someone's pockets for not added benefit for me.

Passivhaus standards can be met with any build method. So you achieve whatever you want.

There are zero mechanical advantage to the threads beyond the 2nd thread overhanging the nut. In fact aeronautical engineering would only have 1.5 threads out of the nut. The strength from bolted assemblies come from the bolt/stud being approx midway in the elastic range. This is why it's important to torque assemble. Bolted assemblies fail more from being under torqued rather than over torqued.

Our living room gets to those temps! That isn't even that hot

That's not good engineering practice, the thinking is if the nut came off the bolt falls out, bolt from top, nut falls off bolt stays in place. In this case would it matter?

So the buffer is really serving no purpose, or is it. Notice you have 8m and 6.5m head pump, it could be that one pump on its own cannot do the correct circulation rates. So you need to do the pressure drop calcs, you may end up with a monster single pump to keep the heat pump happy with the small bore piping. As said apart from the second pump the 3 port configuration is pretty good as you get very little, or no mixing of the flow and return, but it allows hydraulic separation to have multiple pumps. And provides a good ventilation point.

You need to leave about two threads out the end of the nut, other than that fill your boots.

I would convert to 22mm at the stop cock. Place hot water manifold close to cylinder and then run from there in 15mm Hep2O or similar to the wet rooms. If you are not using the balanced cold water flow from the unvented cylinder inlet group, put a prv after the outside tap (if you have one or after the stop tap if you don't) that will ensure everything downstream is pretty much the same pressure for mixers etc. You will also need a check valve at the unvented cylinder hot water outlet to prevent any chances of reversing flow.

Sound pretty similar to what I have (but no softener). Stop tap on bottom right, then outside tap, filter, prv, tee to cold manifold and the white pipe to cylinder. Top left comes from cylinder.

Looks like you have a 3 port buffer configuration, which from an efficiency perspective is better than 4 port. Is it worth the effort to remove maybe not as you will only get very small gains with it being a 3 port buffer. So the question is do you need it, that would depend on zones and capacity of the smallest zone meeting your minimum water volumes required by the heat pump. Your secondary pump can obviously pump the volumes.

I am not charging a car and wanting to do it fast, the 80% figure is not relevant - I may only be charging the battery at 3kW via a 6kW inverter (which is way below what the batteries could accept). So the behaviour is just fine.

Welcome What is being quoted and for what, I do they access or is it difficult?

Or just about any other 6kW ASHP would do the job. Don't be fooled in to buying very expensive ASHP most big manufacturers are just as good. As long as it's sized correctly and most importantly installed on a good system design all is good

Really to should take the cold water from the balanced feed on the inlet group for the UVC. But I did a retrofit so have a pressure control valve on the inlet to the house so in effect everything is balanced close enough as not to have issues). No issues with a manifold. I have a manifold for hot and cold. One supply to each wet room and then branch from there. You would need two colds (one hard and the other soft water). Mine looks similar to the one shown but with a different makers name on it. Are you new build or retrofitting?

Not sure if you fixed or not, but 7% reduction coming as everyone is aware, but a 12% hike expected for winter. I will stay on my fixed tariff (until March 2025) on current prices, take a small hit in summer when consumption is low and take the discount in winter when heat pump usage drives consumption up.

My manual says Use a dedicated power line, do not power the appliance through a line to which other users are connected.

Just had a look at some data sheets, even a 14kW ASHP will only require a max of 6.6kW or 29 Amps

A fuller answer Only with a smart meter or 4.5p without (or with a smart meter that doesn't communicate). And you do an MCS install or are accepted on to the octopus trial and have also paid a big chunk of money over to them and possibly a structural engineer for the privilege. I just chuck the excess into my battery, when that's full hot water. If the sun's out the ASHP is cooling for free also.

Your not really comparing apples with apples - 100kWh and looks like a DIY build (without reading 54 pages) with small fuses and enough battery power to jump the gap of a failed fuse. Not nice for the guy and family!

Easy store water at 48, but they may not accept that. Or add a blending valve on the hot water outlet of the cylinder.

Is it a loft or plant room? It's inside the thermal envelope so not susceptable to freezing etc.

Check the shower mixer instructions they should have a flow temp tuner (normally hidden inside) to ensure the centre of the temperature knob is at 34 or 36 degs. You can normally adjust this to it takes in less cold water and more hot. I found storing in the cylinder at 48 the shower was just a little cool, while 50 was fine and could get it hotter than I required. It just a matter of a little fine tuning to get the sweet spot.

Not really mine are in just the same space as the OP. They are most likely Lifepo04. So chances of a fire or adding to are minimal. https://www.evlithium.com/Blog/advanced-safety-features-of-lifepo4-batteries.html#:~:text=Non-flammable electrolyte%3A LiFePO4 batteries,battery is punctured or damaged.

+1 also. It all looks a bodge. GMove cylinder get insulation sorted. Trim blue foam flush, tape all joints. You also need tape on the insulation and block work. Finish insulation of pipe by cylinder.

Or better still as far from bathroom as poss and get plenty of cross ventilation