JohnMo

Think the real issue with boreholes is power cuts. No electricity equals no water. We have batteries now and a generator.

Hi welcome, plenty of information available on heat pumps, any questions also ask away, with specific questions in a new post.

Our neighbours have had around 3x 24 hour water outages, main water leaks and fixing, since we moved in, so far none for us.

Ours a little different in cost, but much less deep Borehole and lining £5000 Borehole pump, submersible cable & stainless steel wire. Steel well cap. Pipe work & fittings at borehole. Pressure vessels & controls. 40 litres per minute system £1800 Backwashing iron reduction filter. Backwashing turbidity filter. Stainless steel ultraviolet steriliser. Sediment pre filter housing kit. £1750. So around £8600 total.

We have a borehole also. Main connection although very near close, came with issues. So went borehole. Our company would not drill or price until their water diviner had been. It was ace to watch, within 10 mins of being on site, he said we will drill here, first water will be at 8m (I think), ignore and the second water will be at 34m. Within a metre when it came to drilling. Costs, drilling isn't that expensive it's the liners they need to add, and it really depends on how much steel ones they need, compared to plastic. Every hole is different. Then you need, pump, accumulator and filter system. And serviced each year. Ours worked out cheaper than mains connection, and annual service is way cheaper than water costs here and have better tasting water (no chlorine)

Just to add further. We have had our cooling on 24/7 for the past 6 weeks. It just cools when it needs to no thermostat, no timers. Made some adjustments to get the system self modulating. Settings are such that the when the return temp to the heat pump gets to 19.4 degs the heat pump starts. If rooms are hotter from solar gain etc, the heat pump runs longer and more frequently. Overnight the heat pump may start a couple of times. Below are the flow temps over 24 hrs (yesterday), the two big spikes are DHW heating. As you can see the heat pump doesn't actually run that much. 11 starts in 24 hrs for cooling. Power consumed around 1.5kWh, about 8-10kWh of cooling delivered. Below is house temperature, it's pretty stable. House temps do spike a little when we get solar gain but they settle back down quite quickly.

You also need to make sure the gradient of the slope is within regs.

Does the ballastrade system meet all the design requirements? "In general there are three main uniformly distributed line load requirements for barriers or balustrades and these are, 0.74kN/m, 1.5kN/m and 3kN/m. This refers to the force applied to the balustrade per linear metre of balustrade at 1100mm above finished floor level. These loads in general cover the following locations (although it is always prudent to refer directly to the standard to ensure that every situation is covered). Areas not susceptible to overcrowding in office and institutional buildings including stairs, walkways and balconies – 0.74kN/m Areas where people might congregate and public walkways and pavements less than 3m wide that protect a drop – 1.5kN/m. Footways or pavements greater than 3m wide and public areas such as theatres, bars, shopping malls and other areas susceptible to overcrowding – 3kN/m You should revisit the changes with structural engineer, for loading and general balcony design.

How are 150mm+ ducts connected to the outside world airtight? You would drain via waterless traps, which are airtight anyway. Your installation manual should tell you to install low point drains Mine says " ducting condensate drain must be fitted to vertical To Atmosphere duct work."

I did look at this, and it is just a electronic version of the normal thermostat, with bells and whistles. If you bypassed it you would no longer comply with G3 as your thermostat would not function. You can control set points remotely, but not sure how you get it to function with diverter, as it is designed to be powered all the time and acts a thermostat and time switch.

This is what we did Granite slab in front of door is flat, everything else runs away from house. The 2 slab wide path, connects to parking area and has about 300mm fall.

You basically need a ramp from the parking area to the door, with a flat area Infront of door. No steps. Your ramp could go from door down to the left or right which ever easier. Just image yourself in a wheelchair, what would you want, that us basically what building regs want you have. Gentle slope, nice big flat area in fronto door. All pretty simple.

Your trouble will be a puddle and all the unhealthy stuff this breeds. Your extract is always expelling damp air, if its wet outside the incoming air could carry moisture also. Can you install a drain at the low points?

It should simply transition from heating to DHW heating, but depending on some heat pump settings, the load and noise will slowly increase as temperature increases. But even then it's not noisy. Then depending on the volume of water between the heat pump and diverter valve, and the target flow temperature, it may just transition back to heating or take some time off. Mine switches off for half hour or so.

That is bug growth. It occurs in the interface between the heating oil and water. You should have a debottoming drain on the tank, to get rid of the water. Basically at the interface an emulsion forms and the chemical added to the heating oil to stop bugs growing is depleted over time. The heating oil is generally hydroscopic so takes in water via the vent.

If the thermolite blocks are inside and the DPC goes under and up and joins the DPC they will be dry. So as drawn with the thermolite inside. Sourcing in Scotland is not easy. I got mine via Insulation Hub, only place I could find at the time, that didn't want a small fortune for shipping

I would take at you pipes and see if you are loosing heat that way. Not being insulated or thermal gradient pulling the heat away.

Not seeing any mention of DHW or solar in the thread? So a bit confused That wasn't the question I was referring too. Below is that question.

You will at best make no difference, at worst impede the flow through the ASHP. A small 5-6kW ASHP takes in 250m³/hr of air a big one 7500m³/h. You will be providing air from the MVHR slightly higher than ambient and around 1/10 of the air or way less if you have a bigger. So could make points of degrees heat increase. So in effect around 0.01 adder to CoP optimistically. You would be better off spending the time making you heat pump run as efficiently as possible.

No real changes since the inverter was used on ASHPs. Only real change that is occurring very slowly is a move from a home full of thermostats and on or off heating schedules. And a required buffer that can clobber CoP when not designed correctly - they rarely are. Best thing you can do for noise. Size the heat pump really well, so it just ticks away. Starting can be the most noisy because the frequency is always moving and there can be some clicks as valve find position. Normal running is just about silent from a metre away. Switching off and or setbacks will cause the heat pump to run at full load for an extended period as it tries to heat the property at the end of the off or setback period. So make more noise than just ticking away.

If you go on to City Plumbing site they a build your heat pump package, (based on knowing your heat loss or they have a calculation tool) so you can get an a idea of what parts are involved and the true costs. Just deselect the buffer and secondary pump.

No such thing, it's certified or not certified. Did you give drawings to builder?

Obvious things Joule high gain, isn't a heat pump cylinder, not the coil is really big enough. £5.5k for parts and fittings, should a high. They are connecting to your UFH? No survey, how do they know you need 12kW. Think 80% of all UK property is 6kW and below.

I would go it alone, no one putting bleach or other stuff to kill of the bacteria in the system blaming everyone else. Put muck munches in your system and almost never have to pump it out. Also treatment plants have a compressor that runs 24/7 so you need to meter this if you were going to split costs.

Would that take up the same room as someone's flat. I suppose they would need heating, but would have nowhere to sit.