JohnMo

We couldn't find anyone up here so decided to do a modified version of some more traditional. We are on a sand hill so lots of belts and braces added. But a simplified version of this is doable with local labour for not much cost wise. Pretty much thermal bridge free. Not shown is a 70mm upstand I added to screed edge. Used 200mm of PIR insulation under a fibre reinforced concrete screed 100mm thick.

Depends on circumstances and house layout, plus size of windows. We have one wall of glass 6m tall and 7m wide. Biggest heat loss of the whole house is that wall. Halving the heat loss was money well spent (1.4 compared to 0.7 U valve), plus at -7 I can quite happily sit right next to glass without discomfort.

I read all that when designing our house. Then looked at calculations for inside surface temperature - triple glazed was something like 1 to 2 degrees below room temperature, while double was nearer 10. Passivhaus specify triple glazed not just because of heat loss, (in fact they are not really required for heat loss at all) but are required for the comfort criteria.

An approved detail TN 10321 - Condensate drainage and unvented hot water systems FD.pdf

This is as simple as it gets for just DHW, select the right combo of labels and immersion and a DC isolation switch switch between the two. Semi clear day today nearly 7kW installed PV and at 11am I am generating between 2 and 4kW. So about half installed capacity. So you need to rethink number of panels and how you hook up. Either water on its own in DC or AC connected and leave to cover house loads. Any less than about 3kW is a waste of time really. 3kW on a good summer day will also heat your water and cover all house loads.

Define exactly what you mean by insulated raft, many meaning used by different people.

Internal drain is fine

Sounds like a bargain, not, but 400L cylinder is a big cylinder, use less zones that are bigger, then get a smaller or no buffer. Would be cheaper to DIY without grant, unless the whole house is being replumped. Big heat pump, either huge insulated house, or just too big.

The alternative has always existed Vented or thermal store, such as a Harlequin - no discharge piping, no G3. Fit for purpose, vented is what most old houses have anyway. Same as an immersion in cylinder just moved so it doesn't sound as bad - same effect on UVC if it goes wrong. You keep trying to reinvent a wheel which is never going to happen. If don't want G3, use a different technology that doesn't need it.

Watch a couple videos, my first attempt was awful, now knife strip back outer sheath about 100 to 150mm. Adjustable pipe cutter use that to nick the wire layer. Peel back wires they all fall off at the nick really clean. Inner sheath cut with knife. Make up gland. Get all the dimensions from gland instructions - 5 mins tops now.

It's basically a cylinder full of heating water, not drinking water, it uses a coil or plate heat exchanger to make hot water for the taps. An unvented cylinder is the other way about. A cylinder full of drinking quality water heated by a coil or heat exchanger. An unvented cylinder is serviced annually because it's a pressure vessel, the thermal store is open vented so does not have the same legal requirement. However for the same size of cylinder an unvented cylinder delivers way more usable water. I had a thermal store and changed to unvented, it's way better. Regardless of heat source, gas or heat pump always install a heat pump cylinder with a 3m2 coil. For gas you can run in condensing mode and have quick recovery times. Once you are well insulated you create problems for heating control if you try to over think it, you need to keep things simple and the heating system open. UFH works well, with a thick screed, it becomes a storage heater, ideal for cheap electric tariffs and ASHP or blasting heat in once (35 deg flow for about 3 to 8 hrs) a day from gas. At it's simplest you need a good gas boiler (Atag, Intergas, Viessmann) or heat pump, a cylinder and 3 port diverter valve, UFH manifold (no pump mixer or actuator). The manufacturer controller or a single thermostat. Run a boiler on Priority hot water or W or X plan (nothing else). This will give two output temperature from the boiler one for heating the other for hot water. Cheap boilers don't do this. ASHP do this by default. We went from gas to ASHP mostly to get cooling.

Title says very simple? Why do you need a battery, it brings nothing to the party. Your grid connected the grid will smooth stuff out. That inverter is actually AC coupled so would be no use connected to a battery.

At those price I would tell the grid to take a walk and do a full off grid. Do you have plenty of space for PV? And a generator for mid winter.g

Why would you use a window buck in an icf, unless you live in the states. Most the drawings in the paper give quite a thermal bridge.

It 1st May not April, but a bit bonkers all the same, they will fly the nest anyway - or they ought to, so they grow up.

Inverters, just watch max amps and voltage as big panels will exclude a lot of normal inverters maybe not hybrid inverters choices. 5.5 to 6kW will be fine, most the time will be well below that anyway. B. No, you can always AC coupled, which is what I did, a little efficiency loss but that's ok. Most hybrid inverters will only do one circuit in black out so check before purchase. My AC coupled runs the whole house up to 6kW continuous load. C. Our GivEnergy all in one is settable to any export limit you want.

Armoured cable around the house? Ours is at back, so is consumer unit, but have a water shed (borehole pump etc) so have a second consumer unit in there via a big cable. So heat pump is driven from there. Only a single 3 core cable going into the house to drive a 3 port diverter valve on call for DHW.

Quite happy with my bargain install seeing all these prices. No BUS used and paid about £3.5k all in, as a retrofit including paying Vat.

That's hot - rubbish CoP, but you know that.

They will take manual reading but only pay about 4p per kWh. No smart tariffs.

I would have thought the MCS supplier will basically over egg the whole heat loss thing anyway, so everything will be over sized anyway. If they designed for 50 you possibly wouldn't need anywhere near that on the worst day in reality. Then set the heat pump to min Hz setting to downsize it, when they go out the door.

Buying direct is a huge price already. RRP is about £11k

Depends on inverter I think

Are north or south of the Scottish border? Scotland although not independent has completely different rules for smoke and heat detectors

This standalone network... in central and southern regions, smart meter data is transmitted using cellular and wireless mesh technology provided by Virgin Media O2. In the northern regions, it’s transmitted over long-range radio provided by Arqiva.