JohnMo

Probably is, maybe one of the reasons a lot of States in the US mandate heat trap, orientation pipe work. i.e. limited length upwards, horizontal and then drop down vertically on all cylinder pipe connections, as soon as practical, to stop thermal gradients moving along piping, leaching the heat away.

But you wouldn't do that in real life. A heat pump cylinder generally has a thermostat within a foot of the bottom of the cylinder. So reheat times are generally manageable in a normal house without the house cooling down to much. Then the reheat volume and time is purely based on thermostat hysterisis and cylinder shape and volume from where the thermocline sits (not total capacity), which could be quite low as it may well be in @Dave Jones case my 6kW reheat times the last couple of days have been around 30 minutes, but the water has to travel about 20m each way so I do loose some efficiency.

Plus 1, that's £11k m2 and you still need second fix and paint. Did you miss the bit about gold leaf external finish?

I based it my reheat time from call for heat to stopping heating and allowed for the extra volume of the OP.

Mine is wood any size you like

Did think that also, but the 16m2 area and 100m of pipe is only around 12L, which isn't enough.

The local company that made our windows also made our doors. A sandwich construction, with a PIR insulation core, total door U value is 1.0 and airtight. Any issues they are 5 mins away. Go local

5kW is perfectly adequate to heat any volume of water. It just a matter of how long it takes. Would suspect the reheat times will be around an hour, from a fully depleted cylinder. UFH just use 16mm, output of 16mm and pressure drop on 12mm isn't helpful. Or dump the idea of UFH. To make your heating work the way you describe during the heating season your UFH will need to be close to the room temps you need all the time as it will only be putting out around 0.5kW. that will never reheat the place if it goes cold. As @Dave Jones says fan coil, that's what we use after dumping the UFH in our garden room. You will need a volumiser (about 40 to 50L) to stop the heat pump short cycling with only one or two fan coils as system volume will be too small without.

? Photo of washing machine?

Could you just staple small hole chicken wire under you floor frame?

Backwash may not be required if you are already filtering debris (turbidity) upstream. The backwash is only there to get rid of debris if used for filtering also.

Don't you need something like this? https://silverlineuk.co.uk/product-category/well-water-treatment-borehole-water-filter-systems/ph-correction-units/

Do you have the full background to why it failed, things like after hammer, can easily exert enough energy to break things. Pipe stain can do similar. Age etc - Without the details all a bit meaningless.

I am really doing it because I have a nearly new boiler sitting there. Will get pennies to pound if I sell the boiler. Did it as an experiment. But also to show it's easy enough and provided all the information for someone to replicate, especially with a radiator system as a retro fit. Around 80% reduction in CO2 emissions compared to a boiler alone. Re utilisation of a combi boiler as a system boiler or keep the combi part in service if you don't have the space for cylinder. Think the statics are the average house requires 6kW to heat and 80% are below 8kW, but the average size of boiler sold is 30kW. So you only need the smallest heat pump to make a real difference to CO2 output. At 7 degs the house heat demand is also half of the -3 heat demand. So most houses only need 3kW. But have the average sized boiler of 30kW, which doesn't turn down enough, not to short cycle when it above zero.

Layout and control schematic Heating Layout and Control.pdf

Sorry no. A long time ago I did a post on here what it me, but never compared to any other build method. But two of us neither done it before, took about 4 weeks to build our walls. 70m perimeter and and average of 3m tall, with quite a few changes of direction on the front wall, which fiddle and time consuming.

It's not, but many years ago it did.

Greenwood CV2GIP in each room done, silent, smart humidity boost activation, 3 wires is all they need.

Yes No stipulations about that any more.

Just completed a proof of concept on the boiler flow temp switching. Started boiler via the hybrid relay manually, as a DHW heating cycle started. Boiler temperature is held back in line with the temperature curve for WC, boiler thinks it is 7 degrees. Once flow from ASHP gets to 40, WC switches off and boiler ramps up. When heating cycle is complete, WC relay remained energised, (wrong logic) supposed to be de-energised until hybrid mode re-calls for the boiler start. Found I had an OR instead AND in the switching logic. Quick correction, all good. Boiler seems happy having WC on one minute off the next and back again. So now have a combi boiler converted to PDHW (or X plan), for the cost of a relay.

Do you need to remove, just cut them flush? Get them back to sort height difference? What issues are you thinking?

We went woodcrete ICF because it's an easy DIY option. Very little support required for the concrete pours. Build 6 rows high, fill with concrete 5.5 blocks high - repeat. Basic tools required. Good U values out the box.

We were typically using 5 to 9kWh each day via a panel heater during Nov (we got down to about -7. However we are now hooked into to house heating system.

Two ways to operate a heat pump with under floor heating. 1. Sized very closely to the heat demand, set up weather compensation and the let the heat pump run unconstrained by thermostats. It will then feed as little or much heat to the floor as required. Not a fan of any thermostats (may be one), so no actuators needed on manifold no mixer or pump. 2. The other way is to batch charge floor, you need a decent depth of screed and heat losses from house need to be low. Most situations the first way to run is best. Basically run long period at a low flow temp. You just heat the floor, you can also cool it. All depends on what you end having to pay after your £7500 grant. But I just did a self install without grants. You want plenty of insulation in any floor with UFH to lower the downwards heat losses.

You may be better with something like this, mitsubishi also do a unit similar. https://www.fastlec.co.uk/vent-axia-hr100r-heat-recovery-unit-top-access?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwvvmzBhA2EiwAtHVrbysI1KZhxMFLHDd61I0ydleDArURhiPIGBSQXvY7pyoGALmP2ScJWxoChQ0QAvD_BwE