JohnMo

They are Edit Diamond LED Plaster Up & Down Wall Fitting In White. But are they available any more, couldn't find them!

Our last house was built in 1830, and had a wine cellar on the lower ground floor. No windows, just a heavy door, but floor 8" thick stone, shelves 4" thick stone, and shelf framing 4" thick stone. Shelves and framing were about 3 foot deep. All walls were stone also. Room never changed temperature all year round. Totally uninsulated, no heating or cooling - just a stone cave inside the house.

B&B sounds naff.👎 Level decking 👍 finish how you want. Patio👍 You may need a French drain or similar to keep water out.

Drawing shows number 2 inside and outside of frame, and calls it a sandwich. PIR is the bread, wood is the filling - pretty clear. Rubbish insulation values. Wood trapped between two vapour closed sections - not good either.

Heat pump manufacturers label heat pumps differently. Vaillant 5kW at -3 kicks out quite a bit more kW than 5, you need to look at data sheets to get the correct figures. See no issue with what is proposed. So long as you aren't being ripped off. Installed system should be simple, cylinder, 3 port diverter valve, UFH or radiators. Minimal zones ideally one, no buffer.

No

Two of three of ours are in shower footprint at ceiling level. Zero issues. The other one would have been above shower, but we changed the layout and it ended up above the bath instead. You will get plenty of contributions to this question, including you should never ever do it. Good luck!

Why so often, change my filters every six months or so open it up once a year. Keep it running - it's ventilation Aircon isn't! Mould is a product of humidity, temperature and lack of ventilation, so if the ventilation is on why do you get mold.

Just had a quick look at the document - published in 2010, assume you are going to be working with 2022 building regs, so it's a little out of date. (Unless you have a newer version) Doing stuff out the norm is fine, but the building warrant system is all about ticking boxes. If they cannot tick, you end up paying in time and unplanned expense. You have a choice to make, carry on as you are - or comply, 'as resistance is futile'.

Simple in Scotland - you need to comply with Scottish building regs. Not a general book. English and Scottish structural design is slightly different also due to higher wind loadings in Scotland, plus insulation required is more stringent, if you haven't seen that yet - for your as designed EPC. Get a structural certificate, so one structural engineer provides full structural drawings etc. If not provide all calculations and BC will get a third party structural engineer to verify and certify for council. I say quicker cheaper to structural engineer certification. That will be 12 weeks plus a couple of revisions and questions, so maybe 16 to 20 weeks. Certificate accepted at face value. Penny pinching just costs time and maybe more money in the long run.

Have you checked static and dynamic pressure? You are more interested in the dynamic pressure. Open a tap full bore and see what happens. Check at different times of the day.

Think you have answered your own question. The only way two different areas can have two different supply temps is if the heat is being sucked away on one run compared to another. Your installer has done a rubbish job of duct insulation. Our longest duct is around 20m as the crow flies, going through our roof insulation and there is about 200mm+ all around with no issues.

Bit confused What is doing the air heating and how is it being done? Is MVHR outlet temperature you are discussing or something else. What is your actual heat source - gas, heat pump or direct electric?

Do you have one or two MVHR units? Do you have a post heater on all outlets or just some? Assume you don't mean the MVHR goes into standby just the heat source? Is this the only heating you have or do you have normal heating as well?

When I started looking, my aim was the whole house could run off the battery with or without grid power. So inverter can do 6kW continuous if required. Ended up GivEnergy AIO. It's an AC coupled battery, so PV has standard cheap string inverters. But with the AIO, the PV continues to generate in a power cut. Mine has been in since September 2023. No issues so far. But have asked a couple of configuration questions, and got swift response

It's a very generic term, many different types with different properties.

Can you not move the door, you still have plasterboard etc, it could just look a bodge, if you are not careful - are you allowed to open on a top of stairs - wipe someone out, as you knock them down the stairs?

Not sure why people ask questions where they want a specific answer. You want to be told to get on with it, so get on with whatever you feel is right and you need to do.

Just tried to read the instructions for node red dashboard and find it as baffling as node red itself. Way too difficult for a normal person to understand.

Not a fan of zoned heating systems especially after removing them all and reducing running costs by over 50%. Your issue is one zone calls for heat with everything off, boiler or heat pump just cannot cope, so short cycling is prevalent. Balance can adjust room temps For a control thermostat just have a wireless one and move it about to get the best location - ours is in the hall, but doesn't mean it's ideal for you.

Have to agree I will not be doing the survey but have the following comment. Sorry insulation isn't a requirement to make a home suitable for a heat pump. Sizing emitters for a low flow temperature and you get a good CoP. A heat loss, is the heating requirement. A poor CoP is what makes a heat pump expensive to run. Poor CoP comes from high flow temperatures (small emitters), hydraulic separation (buffers), zones (requiring buffers) and trying to run the heat source intermittently. Insulation and draft proofing will reduce the heat demand and allow less impact on the grid.

So question - do you need air on and ASHP, install fan coils where you want it colder, UFH in cooling mode for the rest. Size fan coils for cooling on about 16 Deg water flow. MVHR treat as a separate entity, it's just ventilation. PV / battery treat separately also from ventilation and heating. One contract - no. Go for a specialist in each discipline. But education yourself in what you actually need, from each piece of equipment, be knowledgeable. Don't do their job for them, but understand if you are being sold something fairly and not being ripped off.

They are press fit fittings, so not easy to take apart without a hacksaw or cutting out the pipe sections. Also the distance between the tee and the run to manifold isn't long. You would have to remake the vertical pipes take the tee higher up, come down than add the isolation valve. Something like this. Then you only need one isolation valve for flow and return. Use something like Tectite sprint fittings, then everything is cold work and pushes together. Link below, most plumber merchants sell them also. https://www.screwfix.com/p/tectite-sprint-copper-push-fit-equal-tee-22mm/7032G?tc=TA5&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249404&gad_source=1&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&ds_rl=1248151&gclid=Cj0KCQjwy46_BhDOARIsAIvmcwM042Fd72F7rYXi4vBFnWl6WmTZBopQpoOaI0WniqJ95CUJbFsI1ncaAufZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

What's wrong with a fridge? Other than that I will keep my comments to myself.

Mainly to do with house layout, Heat pump and boiler location. And existing pipe sizes and piping lengths. Cylinder has to have the additional pump as heat pump cannot do the distance because of existing piping size. So additional pump that's a given, I already had the PHE, but could have done close coupled tees or tee in flow and return, but neither worked as neatly as the PHE. But PHE also allows me to remove boiler at any time without breaking into the main heating system.