JohnMo

I was referring to the only pump in the system with an ASHP. They don't have additional pumps required for a gshp. It also outside, not inside. There is zero noise inside. So plenty of noise

Only pump for heating is in the ASHP itself, so manifold for UFH is total silent. Wife was stood by ASHP doing cooling today, unaware it was even on.

To add to what @JamesPa says our new build (started in 2020) was originally gas. In 2023 we put in an ASHP. Messed about with hybrid and have now asked for the gas meter to be removed. Having gas meter standing charges are £110. Saving made running gas over ASHP near zero and below about £20 per year. Gas is costing me money (£90).

Other thing I forgot to say - new build fit UFH - it's a no brainer. If a single storey it's easy. If a two storey size the UFH circuit to supply enough heat for the whole house heat loss. Then you need no heaters in bedrooms or fit fan coils in bedrooms for heat and cool and size UFH for just ground floor. Then choose an ASHP that does cooling and use floor as a cooler. Ours has been on cooling mode since April. No condensation house temp nice and stable. 26 today, house at 21-22.

The recirculated cooker hood we have has worked well. It's is very often off and not needed with continuous background ventilation. We have MVHR, but the dMEV fan would perform the same job. If you go this route get a Greenwood CV2 or CV3. There are really very quiet and easy to set up and will boost automatically based on rising humidity. Generally pretty cheap on eBay.

Think OP decided the criteria, not AI

I did most. Roof no (all internal battens yes), electrics no, plasterboard no, ground works no (except insulation and UFH) but did just about every thing else. I selected my battles

Sorry architect is talking utter rubbish. A simple design ASHP (so no zones, no buffer) will do anything asked of it, if sized correctly. You basically run it 24/7 on the lowest acceptable flow rate to keep house temp stable via weather compensation. Ideally size rads to a max design flow temperature of 45 or below. The lower the better. The exact same rules above apply to a gshp. Sub 5 degs outside the gshp will get a slightly better CoP generally, but the average winter temperature is generally higher than that. At warmer temps the ASHP will get a better CoP. Any savings aren't worth the additional costs of installing a gshp.

That looks like it may hurt a bit.

Why not keep it sorted of simple. Recirculating cooker hood, then a dMEV in an appropriate easy to install place.

When I did our floor (2x 100mm thick PIR layers and 192m² of each layer) it just wasn't worth the risk to get odds and ends of random stuff added to the mix. In the end shopping around got new factory fresh stuff, direct from factory at about the same cost when you include shipping - which was half a lorry load.

Only £7500 for the basic unit.

Gee, they are expensive - £260 at 175Wp each. That's £1500 for the same power output as my sub £140 spend. Around 700 miles further north makes a difference.

Planning a new pergola on an existing decking. It will also have two 500W solar panels in the roof section, these are to provide some rain relief above the table, and additional free (?) power. The rest of the roof will be slats at 45 degrees. These will provide a exit for wind and prevent lift and stop direct sunlight. The structure will be all wood, with metal brackets as needed (£130 so far). Main posts 4" x 4", roof perimeter 6" x 2" (£120 so far). Still lots of wood left from house and summer house build, so hopefully they will contribute. Max height above decking 2.4m. Size 4.5m x 3.9m. Priced up a similar sized kit and were about £8 to 10k. Including solar, battery and all materials to make pergola looking at nearer £16 to 1700. Panels 2x DMEGC 500W bifacial, mainly because they look nicer with a glass back than a normal panel with a white plastic back cover. They are £67 each. These will be connected to an Ecoflow stream Ultra battery/inverter. This comes with 4x MPPT charge controllers and a 2kWh battery. 2 MPPTs will used one for each panel, not the cheapest at £999, but includes the inverter. The other two MPPTs will used later for another project maybe. The panels will lay flat and should generate about 560kWh per year. Not a lot but ok. So far have ordered the wood to build the basics structure, all brackets for structure, PV and battery.

Use fixing like these in thermolite blocks https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-anchors-nylon-60mm-50-pack/454HT?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=901249366&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyrPaWtYCDl-12B6WyYxf6-9&gclid=CjwKCAjw9anCBhAWEiwAqBJ-cxkXAFu8EM2b6-pp6eH2onsHE_OPHgKWRQ9vbSiWb-nbnB_0IGEZchoCitcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Isn't it based on the actual property size - not the land size, you are quoting land size. Unless you actually have a 100 bed mansion

How can that be done under permitted development - that's a big house size of building.

Think you are just making life hard for your self. Give them a rent holiday, be cheaper for you and possibly more appreciated by them.

No sorry no idea. But you don't need PV connected to a hybrid inverter for it to function with a battery.

Your structural engineer should tell what you have to do. Not sure it's down what you or I feel is correct. Your wind loadings are huge, call or email the structural engineer.

Is that a load of steel rafters in the roof? If so they are just cold bridging the insulation. You don't need to insulate the overhang, but I would close all the gaps below the insulation as it it's installed now.

Think a drawing may help?

We bought a property for rental which was a complete wreck, we were paying double hit council tax until the council inspected and agreed it wasn't habitable (no kitchen, bathroom, toilets, running water etc. But had to also prove we didn't make it that way, by way of sales documents which stated and showed photos of all rooms. Plus you could be a while between purchasing and knocking down

Plus once the planning condition gets a tick no ever looks at it again most likely. The world or UK at least is going mad

Think the sap, once done automatically spits out an EPC. Have you checked the EPC database. We never actually got the EPC from the assessor just a link to the database. Do a Google on EPC database.