James94

Due to start first fix plumbing soon, I’m having a 32kw system boiler & 300L UVC. UFH downstairs and radiators upstairs controlled by smart trv’s. In my quote from wunda they have included smarthub v3 with smart thermostats and probes. Im looking for any advice and recommendations on which system does the best job and is most user friendly when it comes to control DHW, UFH and smart trv’s. will I need a thermostat with probe in each zone to control the UFH by an app? James

Finally got him to change the wire, took some persuading but now have 4mm to cookers and 6mm to hob. I feel more at ease now that's sorted, thanks for everyone's help and advice. Regards James

We are hoping to have something similar to this or 4 ovens, this is why we a little concerned with 2.5mm radial. Regards. James

Oh didn’t realise just got details from here, says x pure at top of page. https://www.bora.com/gb/gb/cooktop-extractor-systems/bora-x-pure/product/puxa/ so we will keep the 6mm he’s running to hob and ask him to change the cookers cable to 4mm. he has done all calculations and seem very knowledgeable, I don’t like questioning him but I just thought the cookers wire was to small.I’ll just say I want to future proof. Regards. James

Multiphase supply voltage 380 – 415 V 2N/3N Single-phase supply voltage 220 – 240 V Frequency 50/60 Hz Maximum power consumption 7,6 kW (4,4 kW / 3,6 kW) Three-phase power supply/fuse protection 3 x 16 A (standard connection) Two-phase power supply/fuse protection 2 x 16 A Single-phase power supply/fuse protection 1 x 32 A (1 x 20 A / 1 x 16 Don’t understand these figures, our property will be single phase. How many wires will the hob require, at the minute the electrician has laid a 6mm cable.There will be plug sockets in the island too. regards. James

@Dan F I’m hoping to be able to afford the ovens I’m looking at and hope will all have pyrolytic cleaning so I will ask him to change it to 4mm,just piece of mind and more future proof. radials, they are all going to be on one radial, do they not have to be on there own individual radial or all on one ok? hob, my dream hob is the bora x pure. Which will be in island, now thinking might need bigger cable too,I’ll get spec. Regards. James

@ProDave thanks for the quick reply, been looking at the Bosch 8 series steam oven, oven, microwave/ovens, some are total kw 3.3 , 3.6kw Are these type low consumption? I might speak to him Wednesday and ask him to use 4mm, does a radial make any difference to having a ring? having an induction job in island on its own radial in 4mm. regards. James

Are we worrying for no reason? In the middle of having first fix electrics and got to the kitchen and he wants to do a separate radial for ovens and fridge freezer in 2.5mm. He says he’s done the calculations and this is all it requires. the pics show cables hanging In position and similar to what we want ovens like.

Gross development value

Cold roof insulation vcl and 50mm service cavity is the way we went for air tightness. No need for anything to penetrate vcl. Regards James

Could you not use something like this or something similar. Regards. James

Thanks for all the advice, I’ll speak to the electrician Monday and see if we can maybe reduce the amount of spots. I think I’ll probably try having the 4 surrounding the centre light and just leave the wires there pinned up out way just in case. Regards James

This is a plan the electricians have come up with, featuring a center light and 2 bedside lamps on a 5amp lighting circuit. whilst we do want a good level of lighting I personally think there is too many spotlights. Im just not sure on how to space them out. My dad suggested maybe removing the 4 around center light, what do you think? James

Can anyone offer a better design on our bedroom lighting ,all lighting will be dimmable but I’m thinking we’ve over done it with spots. this pic shows a rough design and measurements of the room,each side has a sloping section of ceiling. Regards. James

@JohnMo Thanks for your advice, we are going to hopefully have a central hanging light as a focal point witch may cause some cleaning issues in the future. And some sort of separate led lighting to highlight the vaulted part. I hadn’t really looked at wall light as had it in my mind I wanted some sort of hidden lighting, maybe plastered in wall. Anyone done something similar. Regards. James

Hi, Im struggling to think of the best way to uplight this ceiling. Which ever route we go down I would like the lights to not be visible. I was thinking of some LEDs recessed into some coving/ plaster in profile or some wall mounted uplights. Not sure what would give the best results. There will be one central light. James

@Iceverge thanks for those calcs, is the 45mm insulated service cavity pir or 45mm mineral wool? @nod what’s the reason you say mineral wool would be useless? I don’t mind doing 2 layers of pir rather than a single 150mm layer. Just thinking the mineral wool would fit better? James

Just finished scaffolding for my vaulted ceiling which will be my next job, but before I start buying materials I’d like some advice. I know there are a few posts regarding this subject but I’d like to start this post so it’s specific to my needs. The rest of the 220mm rafters have all been filled with 150 PIR then 50mm onto rafters then VCL and then counter battened with 25x50mm laths for service cavity. Now this was going to be my initial way of tackling this section to ensure a good u-value but after having such a hassle hand cutting 150mm PIR to get neat cuts and tight fits I can see this is going to be an absolute nightmare for this awkward roof structure. Anyone got any thoughts? James

If I was you I wouldn't even try and fill them, get yourself the correct thickness timber and straighten out some of those rough ends. If the T&G that's fixed down has poor edges to them you could take them out and put fresh down, you can put the old pieces underneath going across and screw to it, should add a little strength to it all. if you are putting a new carpet down you need to get it right. Regards James

After kitchen under kick boards and island end panels to hide all perimeter gaps, should it ever need to come up or altered in any way very difficult when put underneath. Regards James Only my opinion by the way.

I’d like to thank you all for the time and effort you’ve spent giving us this very helpful information, me and the wife are still discussing our options at the moment. If we go back to her and tell her we have changed our minds and are not prepared to treat it(maybe say it’s like accepting responsibility and not treated by professionals To receive certificate) As most of you have said it’s clearly on there side of the fence and I’m sure if the shoe was on the other foot they’d have nothing to do with us with no help whatsoever. Regards falling out which we probably will if we go down this route, we have never really spoke and they did all they could at planning stage to stop the build going on with a 3 page complaint. We never did see the copy of the report, she said she never her phone on her. I was probably a little slow and should of demanded a copy, she probably won’t let us see it now Regards. James

We had issues with our reveals and fixing the cavity closers, very poor bricklayer. We ended running expanding foam up block and brick and holding in place with wood until set. Regards. James

Hi, Just an update on the jk,neighbour came round while I was planting laurel hedge.she has spoken to her solicitor and someone she knows and there saying it’s a shared boundary. She’s had a quote from a specialist and it’s about £2000 inc vat and she wants me to share the cost,I’ve told her I don’t have £1000 spare and I did suggest I’d sort it out with the help of you people on the forum, but after speaking to some work colleagues I’m not sure what to do. I don’t want to start treating it and feel like it’s then my responsibility. Any advice on what might be the best path to follow, would be much appreciated. Regards. James