James94

We was set on the jackoboard 1600x900 x30mm, only problem was the waste is central and I have a joist down the centre of each opening. Regards. James

Oh Facebook, yeah I could do that I suppose

Yeah think it’s 5 most have been created in block work for a while, the studwork bedroom openings will have 826mm wide doors. £20 doors are all he’s fitted in his own house so wasn’t bothered if he made any mistakes, that’s why he won’t be touching my doors. sorry to sound thick but what is FB? Regards. James

@ProDave They came with a cling film around them to keep them together, I have opened one so I’ll wrap that back up. I’m hoping the floor should be level enough but I’ll get something to hold them down to stop any warping. there are both block and stud walls. @nod there are about 5 different widths of doors eventually going in the casings which will be a while away so I don’t think it will be worth buying cheap doors to fit into casing prior to installation, but skill builder was doing something like that. All the casing have been made to a couple of mm larger than the door that is going in them, so hopefully the joiner can fit them without taking anything off doors. @markc It’s going to be a while before I get the doors and the joiner will be fitting them, dad doesn’t feel he can fit an expensive door, he’s used to £20 doors and that was some time ago they was that price. Regards. James

I have 11 door casings just laid on floor and I’ve been let down by joiner, rang so many I’ve lost count. Earliest said mid May an other said August most said to busy. My dad has been helping me a lot and he’s fitted a few in his house and has suggested he does them, but not sure as I don’t want him to mess them up. If I do let him loose can anyone offer me some fitting advice to pass on, he’s been watching a few YouTube vids but some of them are quite old and I’m not sure if things have advanced now( the Skill builder ones look quite good) if he follows these can he go wrong? If anyone can offer us any installation tips and things to be careful of would me most appreciated. Regards. James

I had settled for a jackoboard 1600x900 x30mm linear former but this only comes with the drain in a central position which will not work as I have a joist in centre of each of the openings. I have done a bit of searching and come across this one, has anyone on here had any experience with this model/design, or can recommend one with a flexible outlet position. https://wetroomstop.com/linear-wet-room-kits/wetroomstop-shower-base-900mm-x-1600mm-x-30mm-with-600mm-end-linear-drain.html#/1-tanking_kit-pci_lastogum_3_m/16-drain_cover-reversible/21-waste_trap-dallmer_fast_flow Regards. James

@Nickfromwales Thanks for the help, I’ve got a tiler coming to look Monday and I let him know what I plan to do ready for him tiling. It’s still a while away just trying to get first fix plumbing done so we can. Get plastered out. Regards. James

Thanks for the reply, so no need to use waterproof ply? Will the former adhere to OSB and what would you recommend for that, think I’m going to be using a jackoboard former. Regards. James

A quick picture may help to advise. Regards. James

Going to lay a shower former at posi joist level, i have put 2x4 supports beneath for a material to sit on. What would the best/strongest way to make the height up for former to sit on? Regards James

As above, if this is left like this its going to cause nothing but trouble what is the vent for? Does it have to come out roof? Regards James

One of the rooms is 4.2x2.4 and the other is 2.25x3m The rooms don’t have to much deflection,so no need to use ply wood. Im not going to be tiling these myself but I want to get the substrate correct for when it’s ready to tile. I’m going to contact plasterer to see if he can just price for ceilings and I’ll board the rest in a cement board. If the joist at 600centres are ok what will the laying cement board do? When you say stick ditra direct to caber deck is this as well as using cement board or ditra and tiles? I’m just trying to get my head round the build up of the materials so I have a good understanding of the process and will enable me to get the shower former to the correct height. Regards. James

Hi all, after reading on the tiling forum I have come to the conclusion that my two upstairs bathrooms set on 600 centres posi joist and 22mm caberdek should have been 400 centres and a totally different floor finish. Like WPB Am I correct in thinking this? 1, I’m hoping to lay two large linear formers 1500x900 was looking at the tough x Maybe someone could recommend a better one, do they all perform as good as each other and ease of tiling? 2, Our posi joist top chords are 47mm deep, should I fully fill that with ply to support the former? 3, What’s the Best material to lay over caberdek and what’s the best way to reduce any floor deflection and best materials for tiling on? 4, Our plasterer has said to plasterboard and skim both bathrooms and tile onto that, as that’s what he does on every job. Would we be better off using a backer board and tanking kits where needed? What would a tiler prefer to work on to give the best results? James

Not sure if it’s the normal to bridge cavity and sit doors on it. But this is the route we are taking and I’m not sure if correct, DPM under PIR and another DPM then UFH and liquid screed. Regards. James

My doors sit on the outer course of bricks which leaves the cavity open, my plan is push insulation tight up and bridge gap and cover with screed. Regards James

@shares What about aluminium frames? I have dropped each door way a course lower to enable level acsess. Regards James

Not a problem, the more problems we hit on this build the more we learn for the next😁 this driver wasn't the one astro recommended, we chose this because of the price. This is the astro one, https://www.astrolighting.com/products/6008072-led-driver-cc-350ma-15w-cc-700ma-31w-non-dim should we of bought this,is it better than the one we have? And if not can you recommend one which you think maybe suitable. Regards James

Thanks for everyone's help, I'll get these wired as soon as i can. Regards James

Now i am a little lost, I have already bought one of the drivers @ 700ma as stated by astro, I also think these 2w led lights are replaceable although not sure how . The led driver will be sat on top of a wardrobe a few meters from first light, I want to make everything possibly replaceable with ducting and so on, I would hate to have something fail and be left with wall lights that don't work of have to rip wall apart. Regards James

It’s looking clearer now after your advice, have never done any low level led lights from a driver and just thought you wired them like 240AC. so block screws for test run, do you recommend anything for the final fixing I think Astro have mentioned some jelly crimp? Also if the last light is 5 m away from driver do I just run connect a single cable to last light and run it back to - on driver? Regards. James

I think I understand the connection from mains to driver and out to first light it's after that and back to driver I don’t.

In series https://assets.astrolighting.com/pdfs/original/63483-instructions-borgotrimless-issue10.pdf Regards James

Trimless wall lights, Got a diagram and instructions but I'm not 100% sure, so some advice would be much appreciated. I'm looking to run them along hallway and landing at low level with a pir sensor ( maybe 5 lights on each). At the moment i just want to temporarily hang them to see what they look like prior to plasterers coming round, just want to achieve correct spacing and quantity. I have done a little wiring (AC only) in the past nothing major, but when i see the diagram I've never put red to black and so on, can anyone explain in layman terms maybe with a simple drawing what the wiring will look like with connectors and how neutral will get back to driver from last light. James

This is exactly what we have done, but we have added a vcl to all ceiling areas with 50mm service cavity. we made sure we took the PIR on the sloping elevations far enough up into the loft to meet the top of the 500 mm loft roll, also maybe not necessary but felt better with it like this. Regards. James

Im sure I’ve read as long as you foil tape all your PIR joints up this acts as a vcl. Regards. James