James94

Oops been a long day. not sure how easy this will be to do but here is the picture. Regards. James

Good evening all, I’ve just popped up into loft and taken a picture of the fan, I'm not sure how difficult this might be to remove timer. Regards. James

@Andehh Thanks for your advice, there's certainly a lot of variables there. It's a modular switch it has a dimmer which controls the led lights and a spare switch which used to control the fan. There is no light indicator and only 2 of them glow constantly, the first brighter than the second. I have been told by manrose that the fan isn't compatible with the humidity stat, so going to take picture later and see how simple it will be to remove the timer on it. I'm not sure yet if this will sort out the glowing leds yet. Regards James

@ProDave thanks Dave,I’ll take a picture tomorrow when I get home from work. Regards James

@BotusBuild thanks for your advice, I see what you mean by electrically connected, I only went this route as I already had a new inline fan in the loft wasn’t aware that because it has a timer on it it’s not compatible with the humidity sensor(spoke to manrose today).so I have to buy a new fan without timer and see how that goes, I’ll post update when I have it fitted. Regards. James

Thanks for all your help Nick, I will try and get in touch manrose tomorrow and try and explain what’s going on and see if they can recommend a solution. Regards James

😛

Hi Nick And the humidity stat is permanently powered and switches on / off of its own free will? powered by humidity sensor and goes off when no humidity, I think that’s how it works. Regards. James

Hi Nick And a second switch to trigger the fan to start and overrun. no the humidity sensor powers the fan until no humidity sensed then turns off, I think that’s how sensor works.

Hi Nick So you have a separate switch for lights, that doesn’t provoke the fan to come on at all? yes

Hi Nick, can’t seem to get my head around what your saying, I’ve always had them on a dimmer switch and had no issues. The humidity sensor and fan are totally separate to the lights, this is why I can’t get my head round why it’s effects the lights. I will put a normal switch on and see if it makes any difference but electrician didn’t say owt about that.just said I need new fan. I’m not bothered about when someone has been to loo, it’s just through the humidity sensor when it comes on. I think this is why the electrician has said I don’t need a fan with an over run as the fan is powered up until no moisture is sensed,am I wrong in thinking this? Regards. James

Hi Nick, there gu10 led bulbs from Screwfix, so not sure about cheapness. he has mentioned about a capacitor but i don’t really understand it to much. It’s only started since he’s fitted the humidity sensor, is this what’s causing it as fan is original? Im not sure what leds do when running as usually in shower when it comes on 😛 and light usually switched on. But when lights switched off the stay dim. Is there any tests I can carry out to see what’s going on? do I need to buy a new fan like electricians said as the one in is new, he says I need fan without overrun built in? Would this cure it? Regards. James

Hi all, I have had an electrician come and change how a bathroom inline fan is controlled and when they had gone I noticed two of the four bathroom led lights are on constantly, very dim. If I turn them on and off and dimmer them they work fine but when off stay dim. I'll give you a little background to what he's done. The fan was originally on a switch and he's changed how it works by installing a manrose 1361 remote bathroom fan humidity control with timer. He's also added a fan isolator in loft and he's connected it to the new fan which was in loft manrose mf100t. So, I've had him back and he thought he sorted it but same when they'd gone it was back the same two dim lights. He's now saying that it's because of the set up and the type of fan installed he's saying we need to buy a new fan that doesn't have an over run, is he correct? Regards james

Nick, thanks for all your great advice.I will take on-board all your advice and will let you know how it all went. Regards james

Hi Nick, It was a local carpet and lvt shop, i'll just get some ply from local builders merchant then, was looking at 12mm which would leave me a little from tray top, i might look at the 9mm just to make sure i have a step to seal to. thanks for the screw advice, only got three sheet of ply side by side so not going to have many seems to deal with but will feather and sand them as well as screw heads. could you give me a bit of advise on priming and which one to choose also when choosing the glue is this determined by what primer you have used and what lvt I'm going to lay? by the way pics look good 👍 Regards James

Hi thanks for your help. I went to a local shop and she told me I’d have to use sp101 ply, but if you say just normal ply will do I’ll get a good quality ply from local builders merchants, makes it simple. The flooring at the moment is just 22mm chipboard. I have got to make up about 17mm which will be level with shower tray, it can be a little lower. im thinking 12mm ply and 3mm tile glue so shouldn’t to to far off. can you recommend a screw type that would be best as I don’t have a nailer? also you say about the feathering, does it matter if I put it everywhere and sand it or just the joints and screw? Then sand. Regards. James

Anyone got any advice? I've read a few posts and seems that people have ply,d but just used normal,can anyone advise on what to buy? Regards james

Hi it’s been a while since my last post, so a happy new year to you all and I hope your all well. I’m going to put some flooring down in my dads bathroom ,first of all was going to use some form of click lvt nd seem to of swung towards glue down lvt some form of tile shape. So my first question is does anyone know or have bought recently some Hanson sp101, only seen some online and seems quite expensive . regards James

Thanks for all the advice, I’m not going to try and fix this issue as I think it a bit beyond my talents. i have spoke to Bosch and they have a couple of options I can choose from and I think I’m going to take out there insurance scheme. regards. James

Thanks for the reply, I have seen this but also seen that someone with that same error changed the thermostat but never solved it. I don’t want to go about wasting money replacing bits and still having the fault, could I do some tests to see which part is faulty? regards. James

Just wondering on the off chance has anyone ever come across this and possibly fixed the issue. my parents 5 year old oven had come up with this error code. as title says it’s a Bosch series 8 model numberHBG674BS1B/17 its to do with the temperature as it’s over heating. there are a few bits online but nothing much. Regard. James

@Bozza not sure if I’m getting what you mean, I have the lights already and they are fixed led chips so can’t use different bulbs. @Temp i think I’m going to look at making a matching dummy dimmer switch smart that work with the app. I’m not sure what and if it’s possible yet but going to research Shelly and zigbee, one might work. Thanks for your advice. Regards. James

@Bozza Thanks for the replies, I already have the light and had them for a few months now so not be able to return so won’t be able to have dusk till dawn setting and I do think I’d prefer to be able to have control over them possibly wirelessly. @Temp I had to Google jury rig s wasn’t familiar with the term. is it possible to add quintec or something similar to normal switches or do you have to use there dedicated switches as I’ve got dimmers and dummy dimmers throughout the house? I also have my blinds and some led ceiling strip lights controlled by an app on my phone Tuya app, would it be possible to use this to control lighting? I also like the idea of the PIR sensor,I could possibly use this on my drive wall lights. Could the PIR fit to normal wall lights as I have them too? Regards. James

Hi all, Im going to install some fence lights around garden about 90m in length so about 15 leds and a single light to up light a birch tree. Only thing is we never really allowed for live feed and switching. Got power in garage and feed cables will run into there but not sure of the best way to control them, I have seen the quinetic switches and also looked at this box, not sure how it works I’ll have a read up. can anyone recommend the best way. Regards. James

At the moment we have pumped it out to the site toilet which is at the front of the property which is connected to the in-laws main sewer. I know this won’t be there for ever and pipes will go but there is a drain just before the main road which both of our waste leave via, I was maybe thinking this but it’s a long way to go. question is 110mm or 300mm sump, would it make much difference? Regards. Scezy