James94

Can anyone recommend some fixing which would best suite wall and would be able to hold a toilet sink, it weighs 48kg +water when in use. The wall is made up of block wall with stud service cavity and plaster board was thinking of some sort of resin and stud bar but so many to choose from. Regards. James

@Nickfromwales Taken your advice and removed part of the back of cupboard as there is a double socket on it and i have also taken a section of dot dab out where the tap is going, just to give a little more room. @Conor This could be an option if i ever do it all again but like nick says i could not afford to move the return units along as they butt up to a wall but worth bearing in mind for any future kitchens. Regards James

@Nickfromwales Thanks for your reply, I didn’t really want to get rid of it but like I said the space that’s going to be left behind the sink is very tight and going to be nearly impossible to fit and tighten down the tap.If I choose to bung it up any idea if best way to go about it?. @Conor To batten it out do you mean remove back of cupboard? Regard’s. James

Hi all, I ’m tight for space behind my undermount sink, I have a boiling tap to fix down and pipes to run in aswell which I think I’ll need to cut the wall out to give me a bit more room. I Was also thinking of bunging up the sink overflow and spinning the sink around for extra room, has anyone experienced similar issues and how did you manage? Could I just ct1 it up? james

the units are inframe, from diy kitchens so they set the height of the fixed part which are all the same.

The unit on the right which is lower, is a pull out bin with a combination door so I’m not sure if this can be adjusted

Is this the norm, I have started to install the kitchen units and have noticed there is some difference in door heights and I cant seem to work out what to do for the best. I have attached a picture to try and explain it better and also one of a response from the manufacturer. any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards James

Decided to lower the cill as much as possible, hard work hand sawing it but I want to save causing issues with end panels and gaps under plinths. ill just close the cavity off with pir and tape it. james

It’s going to be Overdepth at about 825mm

They are adjustable but we still need an extra 25-30mm

We was considering a paving slab, looks like We will go with that idea. thanks all

Yes it would need to be covered with kick board or skirting

As we’re both over 6ft we wanted worktop at 950mm.

Could the ufh/ moisture possibly affect timber packers thus moving the units? If not would I need to use a marine ply or something similar? Yeah I was thinking of that, or possibly skirting board. Not sure if that would work. thanks

Hi, We are going to run the quartz worktop right through to the window frame, had some issues with dpc height so the screed is not as high as intended to be. So now we have 25-30mm to make up on all of our kitchen units. What’s the best material to use to sit the units on? My dad suggested tiling as it needs to be something that will stay solid but it’s a freshly laid screed. Do leg extensions exist? Thanks James

@markc Thanks for the quick response, will it be ok to use any tape or does it have to be a dpm tape? Regards James

Sorry if this sounds a silly question but just finishing of the 25mm pir edging strip and was wondering the correct way of taping slip membrane down. Does it have to go up the face of the perimeter pir or can I just cut it up to it and tape to the floor insulation If so do I then tape the perimeter expansion foam down to the slip membrane as i'm unsure of procedure. Regards James

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@NewToAllOfThis @Nickfromwales Sorry for the late response but been busy, thanks for the great advice and video. I have been watching a few videos on Techniques for applying but I think getting it right will come with practise. I’ve applied a mist coat to the upstairs and a second to a cupboard and the vaulted ceiling. The cupboard was for practise with neat paint, I found that I needed to up the pressure to 3 for it to run ok. The vaulted ceiling had its second coat so we could fit the chandelier and remove internal scaffolding to enable floor prep for UFH/screed. There are a few lines in the mist coat from not getting the overlapping correct(faint plaster showing) but this seems to be hidden with the second coat. I did get a price for £700-800 for someone to come and spray it over a weekend, that was me doing all the sanding/filling/masking and buying the paint. Which would have taken more of my time away from prepping ground floor for screed. So decided to do it myself and now I’m glad I did.

Can anyone offer any advice for a newbie spraying a house? also best way to achieve straight lines around reveals as I don’t think what I’ve been left with will look very good after spraying. As you can see on photo, would you take plaster back a little and caulk for straight lines. James

Hi, Just purchased a Wagner control pro 250m, got a large 4 bed to paint. I’ve never used an airless sprayer before so I will be starting off in areas that will be hidden by floor to ceiling kitchen units etc. I’ve read a few of the older posts, just wondering if anyone has any advice on which paint to use? I’ve read some paints don’t need watering down for mist coats which I thought all fresh plaster should receive. should any filling and sanding take place once the first/ mist coat has been sprayed of before hand? James

@markcthanks for clearing that up. is it best to put the 25mm upstanding directly on the block and beam or sat on top of the pir? thanks

Seen a few posts but still abit unsure which way is correct. Should the Dpm underlay or overlap? Does it matter? james

Thanks I understand now, can anyone recommend any tapes to use I was looking at the one on Screwfix(713fr) but not sure if ok to use for all dpm joints. Regards. James