James94

Just read this bit and would like to ask what the best materials to use, i was under the impression that there was only one way that everyone did 25mm pir and then the edge strip, mines from wunda 8mm and about to start this job. Edge strip insulation by JGUHEDGE or similar approved - My builder used this, the architect specified 25mm PIR. This thin insulation creates a bad cold bridge. Regards James

@nod @SuperPav any thoughts on the above?

We decided to use moisture resistant boards, tank it and tile onto that, but there was some confusion when the boarders came last week and they’ve used normal plasterboard as shown in the photo below. Will this be ok when tanked or Should I ask them to swap it out for the moisture resistant? james

@Mr Punter Did think about that but think that might of caused other issues as some of the insulation we was able to fit flush and some wasn't. so decided to take the front off where it was needed that way all flush with the studs, its been an absolute nightmare. Still unsure about the 5 core cable from the bedroom to the stairs, do you know if we have to run a 5 core from bedroom to each individual tread or just daisy chain from first through to 12th tread ? Regards James

To be fair they have been very picky, some fixings I've missed out, scaffolding needs to be raised up as there struggling to move boards about. The only thing is the scaffold will need lowering again for them to have a comfortable working height in the vaulted section. screw heads slightly proud of insulations and worst of all the PIR we fitted either side of hallway was 100mm in a 95mm stud and he's refused to fix boards to it as the studs are set back slightly. I'm having to remove all the vcl and take the foil off and plane them down flush with the studs, a mistake I won't make again. I've looked at the link you posted and don't think that would work as there are to large module light switches top and bottom for controlling lights in hall. I think I'm going for some sort of controller and possible app to control colours but still be able to switch on/off at wall. don't think I'm going to use the lutron as suggested by carrerahill. If the cable comes from the bedroom Driver controller in 5 core, does it just go to first tread/led strip and then on to the next or is there a better way as I feel there is going to be a lot of wire and not a lot of room for it? Sorry to be a pain Regards James

@TonyT @Carrerahill Sorry for the late reply, had a shit time when the plasterers came round and ripped into my work and I was so looking forward to them arriving. Thanks that's one part to forget about then, The driver will be in a upstairs bedroom on top of a wardrobe for future proof. I would like to have an option for colour so I'm opting for RGBW, I know this might complicate things but I'm having RGBW on some plaster in trims in vaulted section too so want them to be able to match. Can you help with options for wiring maybe a simple diagram on how to get the 5 core flex from driver to the 12 treads and what is the best scene controller to use. I don't want anything fancy just be able to switch them on and off with switches and a colour changing system. Regards James

I'm in the process of lighting this part of the house, having main light hanging down from centre and looking at plastered in led profiles either side .

I'm a little concerned about my 2 way lighting will it work? There will be a pair of switches one to operate the stairs and one to operate the vaulted section. It will be AC 2 way switch top and bottom of stairs going to a driver and some sort of controller for both. (Lights will be rgbw) We have had the steel stairs fitted yesterday and not sure how the cables will route to each treds, has anyone done something similar and how best to control them I'm not looking for a pir sensor system just using switches. Regards James

Might be worth insulating all ducting too if its a cold roof space, this might prevent some condensate.

@Temp @ProDave What i'm not sure about is I have the live feed to the PIR sensor in place bur there is no wire back to the driver so this is something i'm going to have to run in as electrician wont be back in time. I could just add the cable from PIR to feed the lights/led strips with the driver in the wall somewhere, but i will not have access to them. is there a correct way to bring cables out of wall to drivers and back in to the lights?

@Temp thanks for the reply, was hoping to have them all in certain areas with easy access. I’m not sure if they will fit in the box you have linked and I don’t know if they would fit in the service cavity or even fit in the holes made for the PIR’s. Do you think it’s possible to have them on a shelf or wardrobe and if so how would it wire up? Regards James

Got another question, I can't seem to get my head round this wiring issue, I have the first fix cables in place but I'm not sure how the electrician plans to power my 12v led lighting. I plan to have all drivers for the low volt lights in an accessible place, I was thinking of on top of wardrobes. how will he get the wire from the PIR'S to the drivers and back in wall to lights ? Is it just the case of pulling extra cable through a hole in wall or is there another way as I don't think there is any extra length cables for it and he isn't due back till second fix. Hope this makes sense. Regards Scezy

Hope they intend to use scrim on all connections, thought that was just the normal. I’m sure there better than that but I’ll keep my eye on them.

It is a bit of a mess never really thought about it as it won’t be seen. Do you think these joints will cause issues in the future? I’m sure he won’t do owt about them as it would be nearly all his fittings.

@Gone West not sure if I’ve got enough time to add noggins all round, if ceiling goes up first won’t the wall push up and take some of the ceiling weight? Or will I still end up with cracks?

@PeterW. @ProDave Spoke to plasterer and he’s Said he has seen noggings on some of his jobs but not to many and as I’m having 15mm plasterboard on ceilings that it won’t need it. if I had known earlier I may of had time but left it a little late now, all other bits I’ll get plumber to look at. Regards. James

@PeterW Thanks for the response, the toilet waste has a bracket fixing to the joist are you suggesting I need to add more of a support? I’ll look at the shower waste I’m sure there are some hidden supports not seen in the pic. regarding ceiling noggins, I’m not sure what you mean, there are some under kaberdeck do I require more and if so could you show what I need to add. the gap a the top of the wall is not just at the soil vent pipe it’s all the way along wall can I leave wall short of flooring?

@ProDave thanks for your reply, I know the plumber has a couple more odd days so I’ll make sure the pipe insulation is done. not sure why we left. Cable’s hanging and not fixed in boxes, I think it might of been at the time I wasn’t exactly sure if kitchen appliances positions and how many. Electrician won’t be back until second fix now so I’ll make sure there in position and fixed prior to plasterers. plasterers have agreed to sound insulate in their price. How can I finish above block wall where it finishes low to first floor, are there regulations to comply with?

Hi all, first fix is almost done, just a few things that are bothering me prior to plasterers coming I’m not sure how best to finish off a few things, first of all is there certain regulations on how to finish this section off see pic?

@Nickfromwales so we’ve got 2 x 18mm layers of osb 3, then a cement board then the wet room former bedded onto that. do I need to adhere the cement board or just screw to the osb? And what adhesive would you recommend for adhering the tray to the cement board? james

Wouldn’t bother, just tank once plasterboarded. If it done properly you won’t have any issues and if it’s not done properly and water gets to block work your going to need to re do the whole thing again,so very important you waterproof properly. Regards. James

@JohnMo not sure how id go about coupling the heating zones together to achieve a single zone. ive got a 12 port manifold for downstairs UFH with 5 zones, 2 port manifold upstairs with 2 zones, 5 radiators with smart trv's. would i be better of buying a buffer tank or could i make this work as a single zone?

Hi all, first fix plumbing is underway and I’m confused on wether I need a buffer tank or not. So I’m hoping someone with more knowledge than my plumber/“heating engineer” can advise me. I’m having underfloor heating downstairs and in two bathrooms upstairs using the clippa plate system from wunda. These will run off 2 separate manifolds with an estimated total volume of water of 134.36 litres and a heating demand of 10.7kw according to wundas calculations. Obviously the demand to heat the two bathrooms will be a very small part of that 10.7kw. I have an Ideal Vogue S32 GEN2 system with a modulation rate of 7:1 so 4.57kw if I’m correct.With a 300litre uvc. Do you need any more info to be able to decide if I need a buffer or not? Sorry to sound thick but i was hoping my plumber would be able to take care of this as I don’t have a clue when it comes to this sort of thing. James

Sorry fot the late response been a little busy, the reason i was looking at the fleible duct from toolstation was it looks a little better quality than the thin shite you can get and its in 6m lengths.I cant seem to see any long lengths of rigid duct on screw fix or tool station, only small sections not sure what there all about. I have quite a lot of virgin ducting left over would this work? Thanks for the backdraft shutter tip I'll put one in, imay have to do the same with each of the bathrooms they go out through roof tile vents and i can feel a draft coming back in through them both. Regards James

Finlay ordered 3 MF100T inline fans,one for toilet which will be a 6m length to external wall. One will be a utility 3m length to fan in garage and other will be kitchen 6m length to fan in garage,this is where two fans will exit via one hole in external wall 4 m length. I have been looking at the ducting here (https://www.toolstation.com/pvc-flexible-ducting-hose/p30076)has anyone ever used it and what do you think to the quality? I would also like to know what connections and fittings i may require to complete the job. I have tried speaking to Verplas technical but just goes through to mail box. Regards James