James94

@Temp Very good video but will need to watch it a few more times. Yes it is app based but it has a portable control stat and yes they are a bit passed it but I think once it’s set up they should be ok, maybe get the odd phone call or two. I’m not sure about just replacing with a conventional controller, with the hive they won’t have to keep going into cupboard to switch it on and off, will be able to do it from the comfort of the sofa😛

@Temp The issue is with the controller, I don’t think they use the thermostat at all. The controller works when on manual for hot water and heating, but they have to turn it off at the boiler as I has a mind of its own and switch’s things on and off, so not sure what’s going on with it. I was hoping to maybe just remove and replace with a hive system.

Hi, not sure how difficult this would be for me but my manna and grandad are having trouble with controlling the heating and hot water. I have been on the phone to hive and they want £278 including installation and i’m not sure if I could diy it and save them some money. the issue is if there is any issues with my diy install and they are without heating and water I’ll. e in trouble as my grandad has cancer and feels the cold badly. I have a few pics of there system which is a conventional one with tanks in loft for hot water and boiler in kitchen cupboard with thermostat and controller. Regards. James

In the process of fitting bathroom fittings and not sure if these need to go all the way in and tighten to prevent any leaks. Some are not sticking out as far as others and if turned all the way in not leaving a lot of thread to tighten to, is it just the case of getting longer brass threads? also grub screw showing on tap, best way to get the screw facing downwards?, couple of pics to show issues. regards. James

We got our skirting from howdens and the labels were right at the end, we just cut them off. But it does pull the primer off.

Abit late for using 2k as it’s a pretty much all fixed now, is there any other good water based options?

Still not sure which type of paint to use for our skirtings, has anyone sprayed theirs? Looking for a durable matt finish. james

@PeterW thanks for the quick reply, I’ll have a look at this stuff and probably get some. Have you used this stuff before? also have you had any experiences spraying mdf and possible paint recommendations? Regards. James

Finally started fitting skirting and architrave, we initially was just going to adhere them but some of the plastering round casings very sloppy. Having to take plaster back to enable flush fitting so borrowed a-nail gun to pull it all tight and hold it in place better, only problem with that is small holes to fill. Can anyone recommend a good filler for mdf? Also bought a Wagner sprayer for walls and wanted to use it on second fix joinery have any of you used one to good effect? also can anyone recommend a good quality durable/wipeable sprayable paint? Looking for a matt finish James

This is from an area where the flood water did not reach, it’s more difficult to lift up, is that how it should be? Should it separate from the screed like this? 69323556847__F2A89D14-7EAA-49AD-9214-06BF060F8F97.MOV

@markc They sanded/scraped and hoovered the floor prior to laying the primer/SLC.

@ToughButterCup we haven’t paid yet. Think we’re going to wait to get our UFH on and get some warmth in the screed

@PeterW is an anhydrite screed, we brushed the Laitance off the day after it was poured. not sure on what make the slc and primer was. I did ask them if it was warm enough for them to start, they said yeah no problem.

69323418317__1C5B9A45-D7CB-40A7-8D69-F99F5DFE9788.MOV

This pic showing the SLC being ripped up when the lvt was pulled up, no cohesion

Just as we thought things were progressing and going to be in just after christmas we’ve hit a few problems. Had the LVT flooring people round last week to start, we had some reservations on the job being started due to the temperatures, windows all in and water tight but not had any heating on yet,still waiting for a U16 meter to be installed. Anyway they put down a layer of primer and continued to lay the SLC on the first day, they then came the next day and told us it was still wet so they couldn’t lay the flooring. They told us to get some heaters and they would start the next day. Temperatures in the house were quite warm so they started laying, but two days later we noticed it lifting. The next day they came and called me to come and have a discussion about it so they have now left site and we have had to take up all what they had laid and bin it. Now we have another issue, we’ve had a leak in utility room and it’s flooded the utility and kitchen and we have noticed now it’s dried a bit there seems to be hairline cracks appearing in the SLC and it is very easy to lift now. We was hoping to leave the kitchen and utility SLC down and the flooring people just patch were they had originally laid and lifted. When using a scraper to lift the SLC there seems to be no cohesion, see video. Should we continue to rip these areas up and re lay the SLC

Not to late the way we work, only got adhesive delivered today and two small pieces of skirting cut for walk in cupboards at the moment. I thought you always scribed internal corner and only mitred external, I think it would certainly be easier if only I had a mitre saw that cut square ( maybe my next post best Makita saw). Regards. James

Thanks for all the advice, just ordered 30 tubes of sticks like sh*t and some tubes of evo stick caulk and I’ll give your tips a go. I’ll try not to use any nails but I do have a bag of 2”oval nails if blocks fail to hold in place. Just going to be starting on the upstairs for now as downstairs floor is to be laid in a couple of weeks time but I will remember to seal the bottom edge to prevent water damage, just tried an ogee scribe on an off cut and it’s not as easy as it looks, think a few more videos might be in order. Regards. James

Hi all, 300m2 New build in progress, just about to start fitting our mdf skirting boards and architraves. The joiner who hung our doors recently advised us to adhere and mechanically fix only where needed. Just wondering if anyone on here has gone down this route and what adhesive is recommended. and any other advice/tips for someone who has very little experience on this large project would be appreciated. james

Are you tiling this yourself? If not then maybe the tiler can recommend some that they prefer to work with. I don’t know much about tiling but we’re in the process of having two bathrooms done and the tiler recommended a place in Hull, I’m going for large format (rectified ) tiles. Regards. James

Thanks for all the advice, l used resin and ss stud bar in the end, I think this was the best method as going through timber stud into block work. Not able to use an in wall frame as the sink came with its own brackets required to hold it up. regards. James

@markc @joe90 Thanks for the advice, I’ll crack on with it later today. Regards James

@markc @joe90 Thanks, I’ll look at the wall and sink soon and cut out the plasterboard where required. Is there any type of resin that would be better than the other as a few to choose from? Regards. James

@markc @joe90 Thanks for your quick replies. Yeah plasterboard finish and we will be going through the two timber studs. Never really thought about plasterboard crushing, is this possible and if so how likely? Regards. James